Varkala has a way of revealing itself slowly. You first notice the red laterite cliffs, rising above the Arabian Sea like a natural amphitheatre. Then there is the long promenade lined with cafés, restaurants, shops and yoga studios, with the sea stretching out below. Walk north, and the landscape changes again, from the busy Papanasam stretch to Black Beach, Odayam, Edava, and eventually Kappil, where the backwaters meet the sea.





