A boat on Nainital usually means one of two things either a swan-shaped plastic contraption with cycling pedals, being propelled by grinning tourists taking selfies, or a more elegant wooden long boat being rowed by a local Kumaoni, with grinning tourists taking self­ies. The first weekend of Novem­ber was different. After 32 years, this tal (lake), the most famous in Uttarakhand, saw boats with candy-striped sails setting out to win a trophy. There were plenty of grins and selfies, but also a fierce competitive spirit.