In 1967, when the the ASI stumbled upon the archaeological site of Dholavira, it found the largest Harappan city discovered so far, which preserved seven distinct cultural phases spanning a period of two thousand years. Not even Harappa and Mohenjodaro can claim to have material remains from all the distinct phases that made up the historical extent of the Indus Valley Civilisation. Situated in the salt flats of Kutch, Dholavira was built in a three-tiered plan &mdash divided into a &lsquocitadel&rsquo and an upper and lower town. Records exist of trade with Mesopotamia, and Dholavira acted as a link in the trade routes from the Indus valley to the port of Lothal. One of the most important discoveries in Dholavira was the town plan, which incorporated a sophisticated network of storm-water drains connecting to a main artery, which in turn fed a reservoir. The other big find was a &lsquosignboard&rsquo containing 10 large Harappan pictorial letters. Given that the civilisation&rsquos script continues to be a mystery, these remain of great value. Visit the site (excavations continue) and the nearby museum to travel down the corridors of time.

The information

Getting there
The nearest airport and railhead is Bhuj (250km). From Bhuj, there are daily buses to Dholavira or you could rent a car.

Where to stay
Toran Hotel in Dholavira (Rs 900 AC doubles 02837-277395, gujarattourism.com)