Places to remember Mandu, Madhya Pradesh

It was like rescuing a story from a government press release. Or in this case from the tyranny of the romantic legend of Baz Bahadur and Rupmati. Surely there was more to Mandu, the largest fortified city of the medieval world
I&rsquod seen the ruins on a previous visit. This time, I was looking for stories. I needed historical accounts all attempts to source them in Indore were frustrated. On reaching Mandu, I was referred to the most knowledgeable guide. Yes, he had the books, but no, he wouldn&rsquot lend them to me. His preferred sources  were RSS handouts. An impromptu recitation of the RSS prarthna and Rs 200 helped convince him that knowledge increases when shared.

Fortified with accurate information and a guide with a rich imagination (and several historical wrongs to right), I saw a different Mandu. The grand structures spoke loudly of the sultans. My favourite spot wasn&rsquot the Rupmati Pavilion, blown out of all proportion by MP Tourism. It was Hoshang Shah&rsquos tomb, India&rsquos first all-marble structure. Scattered among the ruins were amazing stories of influences from China to Africa. And the monsoon provided a rare sensory experience in the water-light show.

It was the first time I had to do a &lsquopiece&rsquo in the first person  but an inscription left by Akbar gave me my first line.

The information

 In the medieval world Mandu, about 100km from Indore, was the largest fortified city.

What to see
The view from the edge of the Malwa plateau is astonishing, and among the many magnificent ruins is the Jahaz Mahal, the Hindola Mahal, Rupmati&rsquos Pavilion and Hoshang Shah&rsquos tomb.

Where to stay
Malwa Resort. Tariff Rs 1,490, double room with AC. Contact 07292-263235, www.mptourism.com