The trouble with Orissa is that while we know it&rsquos more than the sum of its popular parts &mdash Puri-Konarak-Chilika &mdash we don&rsquot quite know where and how to look for the whole. Which is why the well-curated itineraries by Grass Routes Journeys seem like a good place to begin. From the built heritage of Khandagiri to the wild reaches of the Satkosia Gorge Wildlife Sanctuary the communities of metal craftsmen in Dhenkanal to the colourful haats of the Paroja and Bonda people &mdash each trip blends the familiar with the unfamiliar to paint a more rounded picture of this ancient land. Straying beyond borders to neighbouring Bengal or Andhra Pradesh, wherever ties of history or culture are apparent, the tours bring unseen Orissa into relief.