"There is something about dark clouds and castles,&rdquo mused my partner as the horizon darkened. Rain and accompa­nying chill are loyal constants of the Danish autumn, and this afternoon was no different. We were at the edge of the thinly populated town of Helsingor (pronounced Elsinore), where the Kronborg Castle stands on a stunted hill. Shakespeare&rsquos Hamlet has secured the castle a place in history and though supposedly fictional, a Prince Amleth did live here in the 13th century.