Stories about caravans crossing the Thar Desert on their journey along the fabled Silk Route had always captivated me. Today, I was standing in the middle of it, about to embark on my own camel safari organised by my host Suryagarh Jaisalmer. I was thrilled. But as the grumpy camel, taller than me even while it sat on the ground, turned its face toward me, I hesitated. The guide assured me it was a gentle animal and I finally managed to clamber up.