48 hours in Macau

Macau is just about small enough for you to spend only 48 hours and believe you&rsquove covered nearly all of it. It would not be true, as you would realise if you were to visit for 48 hours, over and over again. This petite peninsula at the southern tip of China, which was adopted by Portugal as a trading outpost in the early 16th century and was recovered by China in 1999, has seen many makeovers &mdash today, Macau, which already receives a large number of visitors, wants more. So there is further development and new or improved attractions and as that draws more people, there is further development and new or improved attractions...you get the picture. A good reason to go, if no other, is that they really, really want you, for a day, for two, for more...

Getting your bearings

There are little pockets of attraction or activity that are easily identified on their comprehensive tourist maps and, depending on your interests, I would suggest trotting off to an area that has your main attraction, spending half a day on foot weaving through the offers of that area and breaking for a meal and then carrying on to the next. The hub of Macau revolves around the historic centre in the South, off to the East is NAPE (reclaimed land) and swift bridges lead to the islands of Taipa and Coloane and COITA, also land that has been reclaimed in pursuance of expansion.

Heritage city

The Historic Centre of Macau was declared a World Heritage Site by Unesco last year and for good reason &mdash it has no less than 25-odd listed monuments in excellent repair. Don&rsquot let the number daunt you &mdash almost all of these are concentrated in a tight pocket that can be done logically over two days with a pair of sturdy walking shoes, steady purpose and an eye on the map. You must, of course, commence with the Ruins of Saint Paul, where all that remains is a proud fa&ccedilade and the steps leading to it, since the rest of this timber-roofed 17th-century church burnt down in 1835. If heritage isn&rsquot exclusively what you have come for, skip a couple of the Portuguese chapels and choose the Temple of A-Ma (daily 6am-6pm) over the Lou Kau mansion and reserve time for the museums, which vary from the maritime and the religious to viniculture and pawn-broking

For a few-hour sampling &mdash or even 48 &mdash with the help of someone in the know, there are various permutations on offer by the local tour operators.

Sporting activities

If you are going during the third week of November, chances are that you already know that it&rsquos that time of year &mdash Grand Prix Macau, Formula 3 car and bike racing. If it&rsquos not November and speed still holds its draw for you, you must visit the Grand Prix Museum (Wednesday-Monday, 10am-6pm). If looking is not enough, try the large Grand Prix simulator (practise before you go &mdash the queues are long and your number is up as soon as you crash, which can be quick in the coming).

If simulation is not enough, try something a little more stimulating. At the top of the Macau Tower (daily 10am-9pm entry US $9), which gives a panoramic view of the city, is a shorter queue for the more intrepid &mdash the highest placed sky jump that lets you down 233m in 20 seconds. If that doesn&rsquot set your adrenaline off, you can also take a leisurely harnessed walk &mdash on the outside &mdash buffeted by the winds around the rim of the tower.

For golfers, there is an 18-hole course on Taipa Island, and there&rsquos always an event around the corner in the Macau East Asian Games Dome for those who are strictly up for spectator sports.

Casinos & the nightlife

Gambling is almost Macau&rsquos raison d&rsquo&ecirctre. It certainly is the prime attraction for most weekend tourists and 48-hour visitors. And you will never have to travel far for it &mdash almost every hotel has an in-house casino and then there are the dedicated ones like the Macau Palace Floating Casino or Galaxy or Sands &mdash open 24 hours &mdash that have everything for everyone&rsquos pleasure, from slot machines to high-end tables. Needless to say, you could make or break your fortune in 48 hours. If you can last the distance, by day and by night, you can eat there, drink there, play there and sleep there.

For those looking to wine away the hours rather than win, there are numerous bars, a concentration of which can be found at the Docklands with varying themes and music. If you get lucky, you might even get to see a live performance of Macau&rsquos own Elvis Presley.

The food

Whatever you do, go there with an appetite, keep it whetted and eat all your meals &mdash I clearly do not say this as your mother, doctor or fitness trainer. Macau has scores of restaurants with a staggering number of menu choices from the smallest hole-in-the-wall Chinese takeaway to the most lavish of traditional Macanese restaurants. Admittedly, it helps to be non-vegetarian &mdash Macanese food is essentially Portuguese food with sprinklings of their worldly conquests from Brazilian feijoadas or African peri peri-spiced chicken or our closer-to-home Balchao all tossed into the blend with the local Cantonese cuisine, with excellent Portuguese wine to wash it down. And then the Chinese delights &mdash from the familiar shark fin soup, dim sum or Peking duck to every kind of flesh and fowl and creature of the sea imaginable. All this for reasonable prices an indulgent meal in a fine restaurant like Litoral or Solmar or Long Kei can be had for well within 300 matacas (approx. Rs 1,600). You could also point to the Chinese picture menus or your food itself (if it&rsquos a fish or eel in the tank) at the innumerable little restaurants or stalls all over the place and pay a tenth for your meal The newly developed Fisherman&rsquos Wharf tourist complex on the harbour is also a genteel location for a fine meal.

Shopping

This is China &mdash you get everything, you get it cheap. There are night markets and Sunday markets for a large and varied spread. Around the Senado Square, the hub of the city, are various lanes winding off in different directions all with their own brand of shopping &mdash fashionable factory seconds with the brand labels snipped off, Chinese speciality food stores with dried meats and other goodies, and a Macau speciality antique Portuguese- or Mandarin-style furniture with exquisite workmanship.

Resources

Did I already mention that Macau really, really wants you Their friendly, efficient and tireless tourism board has electronic guides, brochures and maps in key locations like arrival terminals, museums and hotels with information on current events. To read more before making your 48-hour choices, try www.macautourism.gov.mo, www.macauheritage.net or www.dicj.gov.mo (gaming industry info). If you have more personalised enquiries, write to mgto@macautourism.com.hk.

The information

Getting there

The easiest way to get to Macau is to reach Hong Kong and catch the passenger ferry that gets you there in less than an hour. The Turbojet connects from the airport &mdash you don&rsquot need to go through Hong Kong Immigration or Customs as they will also see to your checked-in baggage up to Macau. Since the visa to Macau is issued on arrival, it is an altogether stress-free route from port to port.

If you&rsquoll be in Hong Kong in any case, you can also catch the ferries from the city ferry terminals. For details, check www.macau-airport.com, www.turbojetseaexpress.com.hk, and www.turbojet.com.hk and www.nwff.com.hk.

Return economy airfare from Delhi/Mumbai to Hong Kong is about Rs 35,000-Rs 40,000.

Getting around

For only 48 hours, you might not want to figure out the bus routes. Taxis abound, they are reasonable and strictly on the meter, but unless your Chinese is better than mine, ask the hotel to write your destination down in Chinese for you. Or have a map where you can point to where you want to go. Don&rsquot get culturally swayed into thinking cycle-rickshaws are cheaper. They are not. They serve as a tourist sightseeing ride rather than as a means of commute.

Where to stay

Budget accommodation here is available in old Portuguese-style inns. Otherwise there is a slew of three- to five-star hotels, where the rates range from 800 MOP to upwards of 2,500 MOP (approx. Rs 7.55 to an MOP). They all have their own attractions, be it the location, the casino or live-band bar or even (in the Grand Emperor) an entirely golden d&eacutecor, with 1kg gold biscuits embedded in tiles beneath your feet. Sands Macau (www.sandsmacao.com) and Wynn Macau (www.wynnmacau.com/en) are among relatively new entrants in the high-end segment. Hotel listings at www.macautourism.gov.mo.