It's Greek To Us

She was Alexander&rsquos half-sister, who transformed into a mermaid. Legend has it that Thessalonike would let sailors pass only if they spoke of Alexander&rsquos greatness. She was the princess of Macedon as daughter of Philip II and later wife of King Cassander of Macedon. Thessaloniki, the city named after her, was founded in 315 BCE.

I stumbled upon Thessaloniki this summer when a friend informed me that FlyDubai had introduced a direct flight from Dubai. I&rsquom so glad I was at the right place at the right time. Its people, history, diversity of culture and, above all, food, left me totally charmed. It&rsquos a hidden gem in Greece that more people should know about (on second thoughts, maybe not).

With a population of about 700,000, a majority of them very young, Thessaloniki is a hub of learning and home to the Aristotle University of Thessaloniki and the University of Macedonia. (A bevy of students inhabits this magnificent city.) These youthful dwellers make it vibrant and full of energy.

Since it&rsquos spread over a little less than 20 sq km, distances in Thessaloniki are short. One can move around the city on foot from one end to the other effortlessly. I relished strolling through the quaint bylanes, always returning to the bustling Aristotelous Square. The city centre was designed by the French architect Ernest H&eacutebrard in 1918, but the square mostly came up in the 1950s. Overlooking the endless sea of the Thermaikos Gulf and the majestic Mount Olympus, I was totally awestruck by its vivaciousness. At sunset, with the bouzouki playing in the background and a dreamy view, there was no other place I&rsquod rather be.

The next morning, I visited the Umbrellas, an extraordinary work of art by the sculptor George Zongolopoulos. Located at Thessaloniki&rsquos seafront, it&rsquos an integral part of the city, and natives and vacationers alike use it as a meeting point or just to hang around. The sea breeze was most bracing. Passers-by hopped around the place while tourists went on a clicking spree. It&rsquos as if the Umbrellas were waiting for you to say hello or simply smile back. 

The other landmark on the waterfront is the White Tower. The journey of the White Tower is quite an interesting one. Originally, it was part of the city&rsquos fortifications. When the Ottomans modernised the city towards the end of the 19th century, they got rid of a lot of walls. The White Tower was exempted only because it was cheaper to let it be than to demolish it. For a while it was a garrison, but later on it took on the name of Blood Tower or Red Tower as it was a place of execution 3,000 soldiers, the elite infantry of the sultan, were executed here. A Jewish prisoner by the name of Nathan Guiledi bought his independence by offering to &lsquowhitewash&rsquo it in return. Today, as a monument and museum, it&rsquos Thessaloniki&rsquos star attraction. 

Next, I sauntered through the Arch of Galerius and Rotunda, soaking in its history. It has gone through multiple periods of use and modification, having served as a polytheist temple, a Christian basilica, a Muslim mosque and again a Christian church (and archaeological site). I missed attending a concert in the hall by just a few days. Our guide Leveme swore by the performances here and I certainly didn&rsquot doubt her. Not much of the original arch remains, but the sculpted decoration on the pillar leaves you wanting to witness it in its full glory.

I rejoiced with every meal I had in Thessaloniki. You can&rsquot possibly get enough of the gastronomy here. The Greeks live to eat. Lunch begins at 3 and ends at 5, dinner begins at 7 and can go on till 11. Their salads, beer, ziki, dips, chargrilled meats and steaks&mdash even the rice&mdashwere incredible. Don&rsquot even get me started on their desserts. I binged on the yummiest galaktoboureko, a Greek dessert that is essentially filo pastry filled with semolina custard, after which I felt I couldn&rsquot eat no more, couldn&rsquot move no more. Furthermore, the Greeks serve their food with so much warmth and love that you can&rsquot possibly dream of leaving a bite behind. The octopus I devoured at the Met Hotel to the kebabs at Tripia Potiria, it was all unimaginably delicious. And memories of my risotto at the Electra Palace Hotel coupled with the splendid view make me want to go back to tantalising Thessaloniki again.

GETTING THERE

FlyDubai, a decade-old low-cost carrier based in Dubai, which services eight cities in India (and offers 30 weekly flights), has just launched flights to Thessaloniki, making it the first airline of choice for Indians travelling to this destination. Economy fares in August are a little under 60,000 return. Business-class fares are competitively priced at about double that. Should you choose to fly business class, expect seats crafted from Italian leather, more legroom than you&rsquoll know what to do with, three-course meals and 12-inch televisions. The Boeing 737-800 aircraft offers onboard wifi as well. Of course, you&rsquoll also have access to FlyDubai&rsquos lounge at Dubai International Airport&rsquos Terminal 2, where the airline is based (although about 10 flights will shift to Terminal 3 on December 2, 2018). Set across two floors, the lounge offers snacks as well as hot food. You can choose between bistro-style seating on the lower floor, or unwind at the bar or in one of the two seating areas on the upper level.

WHERE TO STAY

The Met Hotel, a member of Design Hotels, offers discerning travellers a sophisticated and inspiring metropolitan experience. Conveniently located in the new harbour area, one of the city&rsquos most lively quarters, and within easy reach of the monument-studded city centre, the Met Hotel features luxury accommodations, gourmet dining, state-of-the-art business conferencing facilities, and a top-class spa and rejuvenation centre. The hotel also boasts an impressive collection of avant-garde art (from &curren124 themethotel.gr). The architecture of the Electra Palace Hotel, set in one of the most impressive city squares of Greece, the Aristotelous Square, and facing the endless sea of the Thermaikos Gulf, is at once imposing and noble. Inside, the hotel&rsquos Byzantine-inspired exterior hides a neoclassical heart wood panelling, marble inlay and wooden floors, plush carpets, cabriole and chesterfield sofas, ornate furniture, luxurious details, generous amenities and, of course, breathtaking views (from approx. &curren160, electrahotels.gr).

WHAT TO SEE & DO

• Lefkos Pyrgos (White Tower), Aristotelous Square, the statue of Alexander the Great and the Rotunda of Galerius are must visits.
• Ladadika District, named for the olive oil shops that used to be found here, is a historic area noted for its fine, old buildings. After gentrification in the 1980s, it has become the entertainment district.
• The Agios Dimitrios Church, dedicated to Thessaloniki&rsquos patron saint, is a must-see.
• The old Bit Bazaar, located near the Aristotelous Square, is popular with Thessaloniki&rsquos student community, possibly because of the many traditional taverns and restaurants that have sprouted here. The Modiano, Kapani and Louloudadika markets, all close to each other, are extremely atmospheric in surmai lochan