Kundan Meenakari: Rajasthan's Most Treasured Jewels

OT Wedding Wednesday | Whether it is Deepika Padukone's Kundan Meena Maang tikka and necklace at her Sindhi wedding ceremony or Nita Ambani's opulent Kundan Polki set from the Anant-Radhika extravaganza, Kundan pieces are a staple heirloom treasured for their rich enamel work, historical value, and dual-sided beauty. It represents royalty and heritage, and can also be handed down through generations. 

Origins Of Kundan Meenakari

With origins in the Rajput and Mughal eras, the Kundan Meena is one of the earliest jewellery crafts in the country. While the craft existed in the subcontinent much before, it flourished only under the Mughal patronage.

The wealthy royal families of Rajputana were quick to follow lead. Royals employed kaarigars (craftsmen) who mastered the art of Kundan Meena. They crafted beautiful pieces, including brooches for men and earrings, necklaces, and chokers for women. 

Jaipur, the capital city of Rajasthan, continues to be the epicentre of Kundan Meena craftsmanship. Artisans across generations have devoted their lives to this craft. Udaipur and Bikaner also have a strong tradition of this form of jewellery. 

The Process

The seven-step process of making Kundan Meenakari jewellery involves perfection, precision, and long hours of labour by the craftsmen. Each step requires a certain kind of specialisation, knowledge, and expertise. 

It begins by pressing 22-karat gold into thin sheets followed by the process of sadhai or gadhayi (shaping of gold). It is the method of cutting, shaping, and arranging the gold strips to form the ghat, which is the skeletal framework of the jewellery piece. 

Paadhi, or Khudai, involves engraving the sophisticated and planned design on the gold framework. Once the framework is ready, then starts Meenakari. This involves filling parts of the engraved design with natural colours and coloured enamel. Jadayi, on the other side, involves placing precious stones in the design.

Once the stones are in place and the ornament is taking form, comes in Kundan; paper-like sheets of 24-karat gold are pushed between the stone and the framework using a chimti (metal tweezer). This creates a wall of Kundan around the precious stone. This is followed by Pakai (securing the ornament with heat) and Chillai (polishing the ornament).