This Temple In Bengal Is Known For Its Unique Architecture

About 45 kilometres from Kolkata lies Bansberia, a city in Hooghly district in West Bengal. It is located close to the town of Bandel, known for its church and famous local cheese. It is one of the places that made up Saptagram, a once prominent port in Bengal. The port, however, had to be abandoned in the 17th century due to the silting up of the Saraswati River. Bansberia is home to the rather unique Hangseshwari Temple. Sometimes likened to an English castle, sometimes to the Russian Orthodox Church, its unique spires have been designed based on the tenets of Hindu Tantric philosophy.

A Unique Design

The inner structure of the temple is said to mirror human anatomy, with the five-story temple representing the sections of the human body according to Tantric principles—Ira, Pingala, Bajraksha, Sushumna and Chitrini. The five-storied temple is topped by 13 towers or conical sikharas, each designed like a lotus bud. Inside the sanctum sanctorum is the wooden idol of the four-handed goddess, Hangseshwari, an incarnation of goddess Kali.

The idol is placed on a lotus stalk arising from the navel of a supine Shiva. In contrast to the metallic casting typical at the time, the idol is painted blue and constructed of neem wood. The inner chamber is linked to all 13 domes by thin tunnels that are thought to mimic human nerves. It forms a complex maze, and access to the passages is restricted to tourists and pilgrims.

The Process Of Building

The Hangseshwari Temple is now a heritage site under the Archaeological Survey of India (ASI). According to the ASI, it was built in c.1814 AD. The temple's construction began in the 1790s under the reign of King Nrisingha Deb, but it was left unfinished for a few years due to his untimely death. His queen Shankari later oversaw the temple's construction between 1810 and 1817.

Many believe that King Nrisingha Deb was a fervent Tantric practitioner, which is why the temple has such an unusual architectural design for a Hindu temple. Others claim that during the finishing phase, his queen Shankari, who introduced the blend of Russian architecture. This temple has a striking resemblance to Moscow's Pokrovsky Cathedral.

The Ananta Vasudeva Temple

Next to this temple is an older terracotta temple. Built in 1679, the Ananta Vasudeva Temple is topped by an octagonal spire. The temple facade is covered with intricately carved terracotta tiles showing stories from the epics, the life of Krishna as well as scenes from life, including that of royal courts, hunting, boat journeys, etc.

Also check out the Swanbhaba Kali temple which was built by Raja Nrisinhadeb Roy Mahasay in 1788. 

Explore Nearby Bandel

Bandel is a town located just 6 kilometres away from Bansberia. It was established by Portuguese settlers and is most famous for its church. The church was erected by Portuguese settlers in 1599 but was later destroyed by the Mughals. It was then rebuilt in the 17th century and was beatified into its present state in 1988. It is now characterised by stained glass, many flickering candles, and a lack of signs of age or history.

The Information

From Kolkata, Hangseshwari Temple is around 70km. Bansberia is connected by rail with Howrah station. Netaji Subhas Chandra Bose International Airport in Kolkata is the closest airport. It takes about five minutes by rickshaw from Bansberia Station to Hanseswari Temple. It takes about 20 minutes by auto or local transportation from Bandel Station to Hanseswari Temple.

There are no places to stay in Bansberia. It is ideal for a day excursion from Kolkata.