"So Kaaki, would you like to see the sights -- Charminar, the Old City, Golconda maybe... ?" Five years ago, I was offering my grand aunt a look around Hyderabad. She was interested, but it was the polite kind of interest. She waited to hear out my list of treats, which mostly veered to heritage and charm, and then said, "But what about this Ramoji Film City? They tell me it's a MUST-visit." And then with some disapprobation, she asked, "How come you, a Hyderabadi, have never been there? Put like that, it seemed like a grievous oversight. It may be the kitschiest show in town, but I must claim acquaintance with it if I am to belong to this city.

