I had a fascination with wolves when I was a kid. When I would hear about wolf sightings near my village Sumda Chun in the Markha region of Ladakh, I would pester my father to take me close to one so that I could get a good look at it. My father would laugh at me affectionately and say that I&rsquod run away out of fear if a wolf really decided to show up.
My wish to see a wolf up close remained unfulfilled. In those times, wild animals would shy away from humans and rarely come close to our village.
In the last couple of years, things have changed, and now we can spot wild animals from the rooftops of our houses. They fearlessly come near us. Markha Valley now attracts many tourists and wildlife conservationists who brave the cold winter winds for wildlife sightings, especially of the world's most elusive big cat, the snow leopard. They visit the Hemis National Park in Markha Valley between the months of December and March each year and take back stories and memories of snow leopard sightings.
What caused the change How did the conflict between humans and wildlife come to an end in this valley that is blessed with extremely shy and rare species of animals? This is how the unbelievable transformation happened.
Over two decades ago, the people of Markha Valley were so poor that they lacked access to even the most basic necessities. With only limited knowledge of traditional farming methods, we could grow just enough wheat and barley for our own consumption. Vegetables and fruits, mostly imported, were luxuries few could afford. We considered ourselves lucky if we got to eat a single banana. The scarcity of food drove people to turn to the only available alternative: hunting.
As hunting increased year after year, wildlife in the region began to dwindle. Populations of animals such as blue sheep, deer, and ibex declined significantly, which in turn led to a reduction in the number of snow leopards, their natural predators. Meat and tsampa (flour made from roasted barley) became the staple diet. The limited availability of food during the harsh winters drove people to hunt even more.
Lamas (monks) and Rinpoches (head monks at monasteries) were among the earliest influencers who preached against the killing of animals and promoted living in harmony with all beings—a core principle of Buddhism. Most of the villagers, being followers of Buddhism, wanted to embrace these teachings. However, for them, it was a choice between survival and spirituality. Survival prevailed.
As a wildlife lover, I often felt concerned about the increasing hunting activity in the valley and its impact on animals. I wondered if I could do something for wildlife conservation.
I always yearned to stay close and connected to nature. I believed that working in the tourism sector could help me fulfill this wish. So, soon after completing my primary education, I seized the opportunity to work with a well-known tour operator in Ladakh. I started as a helper, and before long, I had my dream job—that of a tourist guide—which took me to places I had never been before. Later, I would also visit Darjeeling every winter to work as a storekeeper for the tour agency.
The experience I gained while working in different places—especially as a guide at Annapurna Base Camp in Nepal in 1996 and as a storekeeper in Darjeeling—helped me understand how people there had successfully managed to conserve wildlife. These places had better infrastructure and stricter laws against violations in protected areas. People respected wildlife because it attracted tourism, which in turn brought prosperity. That wasn’t the case in the villages of Markha Valley.
Could a similar approach work in Markha Valley, I started to wonder. I was convinced that conservation efforts in my region would also greatly contribute to its development. However, this wasn’t possible on my own. To reach wider audiences and share my ideas, I needed to work closely with local communities. My sense of responsibility and determination to contribute to wildlife conservation brought me back to Markha Valley permanently in 2015.
I decided to enter public life and contested the election for sarpanch. Luck favored me—people showed faith in my abilities, and I won the election. Once elected, I made wildlife conservation my priority. I began engaging with the locals and reached out to representatives from the wildlife department, who were already conducting awareness programs in the region. They gladly agreed to collaborate. Together, we started discussing how tourism could help protect wild animals and bring development to the area. The teachings of the Lamas and Rinpoches also played a significant role in raising awareness against harming animals.
Slowly, our efforts to improve tourism began to reap benefits and positively impact wildlife. However, the basic question of sustainability remained. To continue attracting more tourists and make a tangible impact, we needed more funding. When I contested the election for councilor and won a term, I decided that we would focus on two fundamental needs—food and infrastructure.
The main cause of animal hunting was limited food availability. To help farmers produce more food, we collaborated with the Agriculture Department to train them in various farming methods. We also allocated councilor funds to build fences around farms to protect crops from wild animals such as blue sheep, ibex, and deer. Access to new technologies like greenhouse farming enabled people to grow food during the winter.
To promote wildlife tourism in the region, we decided to improve infrastructure and allocated funds for constructing paths and roads to the villages of Sumda Chun, Rumbak, and Sumda Chenmo.
Besides better infrastructure and improved food availability, several socio-economic factors helped reduce hunting by locals. Awareness programs sensitized the younger generation about the importance of wildlife conservation. As a result, children and youth began influencing older people not to kill animals. Lamas continued promoting a non-violent lifestyle. All these factors contributed to the stable growth of wildlife and increased harmony between villagers and animals.
Over the years, tourism has brought prosperity to the villages in the Markha region in Ladakh. Homestays for trekkers and travelers provide a steady source of income. In winter, village women craft beautiful woolen toys of snow leopards and other animals, which they sell to tourists.
Today, Markha Valley has a thriving population of blue sheep, ibex, wolf, deer and snow leopards. People have started living in peace and harmony with wild animals, and animals have started coming closer to the villages without fear. Spotting these animals in nearby areas has become common. People have learned the valuable lesson of coexistence with nature. It gives me hope. Maybe, just maybe, my childhood dream of seeing a wolf up close will come true someday
About the Author
Sonam is a councilor, mountaineer, wildlife enthusiast and social activist in the Markha region in Ladakh. He is passionate about serving the community. He has played a crucial role in the mobilization of the community across Ladakh for various projects. An advocate of responsible tourism, he promotes village homestays and has been instrumental in preserving and promoting wildlife-based tourism. He has worked hard for the capacity and infrastructure development of his region for village tourism. He also volunteers with Global Himalayan Expedition (GHE).
Submitted by - Global Himalayan Expedition (GHE)
This story is from our archives and it has since been updated.