Meet Tamil Nadu's Toda Tribe Who Weave Traditions With Pukhoor Embroidery

Tamil Nadu's multifaceted cultural heritage comprises many local art forms beyond the state's popular dance and music. Among the state's treasure trove of crafts is Toda embroidery, practised by the eponymous indigenous community. The Toda tribe, an indigenous community residing in the Nilgiri Hills of Tamil Nadu, is known for its distinctive cultural practices and craftsmanship. Their intricate art of embroidery is one of the most notable aspects of their culture. Locally referred to as Pukhoor, this unique form of needlework has been passed down through generations of Toda women and remains an important part of their heritage today.

Craft of Toda Embroidery

Toda embroidery, or Pukhoor, is a detailed and precise craft that involves the use of red and black acrylic wool on white or off-white cotton fabric. The designs are characterised by their geometric patterns, which are said to be inspired by both nature and mythology. The embroidery is done on both sides of the fabric, making it versatile and giving it a unique texture and appearance.

This craft has endured for centuries, with its roots traced back to ancient times. Anthropological studies and early ethnographic records have mentioned Toda women engaging in this craft on the western part of the Nilgiri plateau. The embroidered motifs often appear on various textiles, such as shawls, dupattas, kurtas, pyjamas, skirts, and jackets, reflecting the diversity of the tribe's creations. The traditional Puthukuli (shawl), which remains a symbol of grandeur, is still highly regarded in Toda culture.

Over time, the embroidery has extended beyond traditional garments and is now also used in creating key chains, mufflers, purses, and other smaller items. These handcrafted products are sold at various prices, ranging from a modest INR 100 to INR 25,000, depending on the complexity and size of the piece.

Meet The Toda Tribe

The Todas are a small ethnic group with a population of about 1,600 people spread across 69 settlements in the Nilgiri Hills. The community primarily resides in the higher elevations of the Nilgiri plateau, an area known for its scenic beauty and unique biodiversity. Traditionally, the Todas are pastoralists, with the majority of the tribe engaged in the herding of buffaloes and cultivating the grasslands. However, the influence of modernisation and interaction with the outside world has led many to diversify into other occupations.

Although their numbers are small, the Toda tribe holds a significant place in the cultural history of the Nilgiris. They are believed to have been the original inhabitants of the region, having lived there even before the British colonisation of India. Their presence predates the 18th century, and they are considered one of the most ancient Dravidian groups in southern India.

Traditional Toda Embroidery of Tamil Nadu

Toda embroidery plays a central role in the cultural identity of the tribe, particularly for the women who are responsible for its creation. The skill is often taught from a young age, and the intricate patterns are seen as a mark of social status within the community. Murray Emeneau, a prominent linguist, documented nine distinct Toda embroidery designs in his 1937 paper, helping preserve the knowledge of these traditional patterns for future generations.

The craft is not just an artistic expression but also a means of preserving the Toda language and culture. Aspects of mythology and daily life are embedded in the designs, giving each piece a unique cultural significance. The influence of nature is especially evident, with motifs inspired by the flora and fauna of the Nilgiri Hills. Known for its fine craftsmanship and use of natural dyes from local plants, this embroidery illustrates a commitment to tradition and sustainable practices.

A visit to the Nilgiris is not complete without experiencing the life of the Toda tribe, who continue to live in traditional settlements located about 15 km from Ooty. These villages offer a glimpse into the tribe's unique way of life, where traditional practices such as buffalo herding, agriculture, and embroidery continue to be central to their existence.

The Toda Way of Life

The Toda people maintain a deep connection to the forests, with their faith in the natural world influencing their lifestyle and rituals. They are knowledgeable about the forest's plants and products, using them for medicinal and cultural purposes. Despite the challenges posed by modernisation and technological advancements, the Toda tribe has managed to retain its cultural identity, making it an important part of the heritage of Tamil Nadu.

Toda huts, called munds, are semi-barrel-shaped structures made of bamboo, cane, and grass. These huts adapt well to the high-altitude climes of the Nilgiris while also highlighting the tribe's unique architectural style. The Toda people are deeply religious and have a temple with a thatched roof and carved entrance similar to their huts.