The Tale Of A Meerut Church Built By A Begum Who Commanded An Army

Every November, Sardhana in Meerut district in Uttar Pradesh hosts a pilgrimage that draws devotees across India and beyond. They come to the 'Our Lady of Graces' shrine, also known as Sardhana Church, said to be Uttar Pradesh's only basilica. People visit the town for the pilgrimage on the second Sunday of November. The tradition began in 1957 when Archbishop Evangelisti enshrined the image of Mother Mary blessed by the Pope here.

The Woman Behind The Church

Sardhana is famous for its stunning basilica, which was built in 1822 and is dedicated to the Virgin Mary and her miraculous healings. Begum Samru, a courtesan who eventually came to rule over the territory of Sardhana and commanded an army of 4,000 troops, built the church. She married and fought alongside European mercenary Walter Reinhardt Sombre.

After converting to Christianity, Samru built the beautiful church at Sardhana. Much has been written about the intriguing begum. Her contemporary, Sir Thomas Metcalfe, a British Resident at the Mughal court, said she was a woman "distinguished by abilities of no common order and a daring seldom possessed by her sex."

The Church

Dedicated to the Virgin Mary and designed by an Italian architect in 1822, the yellow and white church briefly served as a cathedral before Pope John XXIII bestowed the title of Minor Basilica on it in December 1961, an honour reserved for the most beautiful and historically significant churches. The complex is quite large, with mango groves and a girl's convent school. The church has a Catholic graveyard, which is surrounded by several Islamic-style monuments.

The structure is an intriguing melting pot of different styles. The verandah is lined with Doric columns. It has three domes which are replicas of those found at St. Peter's Basilica in Rome. An octagonal dome floods the space inside with sunlight. The beauty of the vaulted ceiling and main arches are reflected in their Roman and Oriental styles. The altar here is in marble with floral patterns, and surrounded by colourful stones. The path to the church is lined with statues of Christ's crucifixion and resurrection.

The Begum's Statue

The most arresting feature here is probably the18-foot-high statue of the begum carved by Italian sculptor Adamo Tadolini. It depicts Samru on the throne, smoking a hookah, with an audience around her. She is shown with a scroll from Emperor Shah Alam II, bestowing upon her the fiefdom of Sardhana following the death of her husband.

Close to the church are some other buildings of interest, such as St John's Seminary, which was previously Begum Samru's old palace, Lady Forester's Hospital, and a house built for the basilica's architect.

You can sign up for a free guided heritage walk around the church and get to know more about how Begum Samru turned to Christianity from Islam, and how the Renaissance style of architecture emerged. More details here.

Uttar Pradesh has several interesting spiritual destinations like the church which reflect the multi-cultural ethos of the place. Check here for more.

About Meerut, The Cantonment Town Of British East India

After the fall of Delhi, Daulat Rao Scindia, the Maharaja of Gwalior state in central India from 1794 until he died in 1827, handed over Meerut to the British India Company in 1803, and a cantonment was established in 1806.

The Meerut cantonment was the starting point for the 1857 rebellion against Company rule in India. Visit St. John's Cemetery, which contains over 350 graves, including those of the first 50 British casualties of the 1857 revolt.

Women Rule In India

Throughout history, remarkable women have defied societal norms and risen to positions of power and authority. Some have left an indelible mark on history through their patronage and construction of magnificent monuments. Check here for some historical monuments in India built by female rulers which serve as enduring symbols of their power and as a testament to their vision, leadership, and lasting legacy.

The Information

Address: Church Rd, Sardhana, Uttar Pradesh 250342

Timings: 7am to 5pm. Liturgical Mass takes place in summers at 6am and in winters at 7am. The Holy Mass on Sunday is at 7:30am, 9:30am, and 11:30am.

Getting There: The nearest major airport is Indira Gandhi International Airport. Meerut City Junction is the main railway station in the city. Around 16 trains run between Meerut City and New Delhi railway station daily. Sardhana is approx. 80km from Delhi and 18km from Meerut.

More info here.