Saving The Arts: Preserving The Embroidery Craft Of Karnataka's Lambani Community

The Banjara community have been referred to as the nomadic gypsies of India. With origins in the Rajputana region of present-day Rajasthan, they were skilled traders and craftspeople whose trading routes criss-crossed India, leaving an indelible mark on the cultural and economic landscape of those regions.

Today they have made their homes in Karnataka, Andhra Pradesh, Rajasthan, Madhya Pradesh, Gujarat and Maharashtra. In the Vijayapura region of Karnataka they are known as the Lambani and the traditional attire of the women is renowned for its use of intricate hand-embroidered techniques, a vivid colour palette and the lavish incorporation of mirrors and seashells. All these elements not only echo the cultural heritage and traditional motifs of the Lambani community but also serve as a testament to their rich history and artisanal expertise.

When she noticed that fewer and fewer Lambani women were wearing their traditional attire in favour of more affordable alternatives, philanthropist Asha Patil set-up Banjara Kasuti in 2017 to ensure their embroidery would never go out of style. Her organisation not only preserves their ancient and colourful craftsmanship but also provides an economic lifeline for them to attain financial independence.

“Through education and skill-building initiatives, I endeavoured to reignite appreciation for Lambani artistry and curtail migration within the community. Banjara Kasuti emerged as a beacon of hope and is dedicated to safeguarding Lambani heritage and empowering its women for generations to come,” said Patil.

Over 120 full-time artisans craft coordinated sets, kurtis, jackets and waistcoats. They also design exquisite sarees, dupattas and dresses—each one of them adorned with fine embroidery and captivating mirror work. Accessories such as bags, pouches and home décor items are also imbued with the rich heritage of Lambani craftsmanship.

The creative process of crafting a single item shows the Lambani artisans attention to detail. They carefully select high-quality handloom cotton fabrics and threads. Crêpe silk and georgette are used for piping. While embroidering traditional motifs and patterns they also stitch in mirrors, coins and jewellery to further embellish their creation. The only limits are their imagination so no two pieces are alike. It can take anywhere from four days to six months to craft a piece depending on the product. Before going on sale each item undergoes a thorough inspection to ensure impeccable craftsmanship and quality.

Prices vary based on the complexity of the embroidery, the materials used and the type of product made. Costs start from INR 1000 to ensure fair pricing while maintaining accessibility for customers. Banjara Kasuti compensates the artisans on a daily wage basis and the proceeds are distributed among them with the exclusion of production costs.

During the COVID-19 pandemic the women were the sole breadwinners of their families. Upon being introduced to Banjara Kasuti they worked hard to sustain their families, showcasing their determination to not only provide for them but also their efforts in preserving their community heritage and identity.

What makes the Lambani art form truly stand out is its commitment to sustainability. “The artisan’s commitment to ecofriendly embroidery techniques reflects a profound respect for natural resources. Through their preference of natural fibres like cotton, they further reduce environmental impact and promote biodegradability,” Patil says. “Moreover, sourcing materials locally from Bijapur not only sustains the handloom industry but also reduces carbon emissions linked to transportation and industrial waste.”

The Lambani women have deep-rooted aspirations for a better future amid economic challenges and cultural preservation. Their concerns centre on economic stability, access to resources and the preservation of their rich cultural legacy, all while striving to support their families’ healthcare needs and provide their children with a quality education.

They are hopeful about living happy and fulfilled lives while upholding their traditional values and art forms. Their craftsmanship offers valuable lessons for us all such as their unwavering determination, resilience and the ability to embrace change with a smile.  

People interested in purchasing Banjara Kasuti products can reach them on their Instagram (@banjara_kasuti) page or contact them on their website.