Looking For Places To Visit In Rajasthan? Check Out Shekhawati’s Abandoned Havelis

 In “Voices from Chernobyl,” author Svetlana Alexievich tells the story of a man who wanted to carry his house’s door with him when officials evacuated Chernobyl after the nuclear disaster. “I can't leave the door. It's our talisman, it's a family relic,” the man said. The sentiment finds resonance in the Shekhawati region of Rajasthan, which is made up of many small towns and villages, from the modern-day districts of Jhunjhunu, Sikar, and Churu, to parts of Nagaur and Jaipur. Here, there are many such forgotten havelis. The walls and doors of these lavish and royal homes, called the Shekhawati Havelis, in the Mandawa town of Shekhawati tell the tales of the past and of the land.

History of Shekhawati

Shekhawati, founded by Rao Shekhaji, once lay on one of the world’s most sophisticated trade routes, the Silk Route. This route streamlined the cotton, tobacco and silk trade between the Arabian ports and the Gangetic plain. 

In this region, the small town of Mandawa is known as the world’s largest open art gallery. Mandawa's importance today for artists, architects, and anthropologists started centuries ago when, in 1775 AD, Thakur Nawal Singh built a fort to protect the outpost from bandits and robbers. This led traders and merchants to settle in this town, which stands at the confluence of trade, culture, and art even today.

These traders built luxurious homes to display their royalty and regality and called in artists to intricately paint frescoes and pillars of the havelis. The interiors were crafted with chandeliers and opulent furnishing, most of which remains lost and forgotten today. Most belonged to prosperous and wealthy families like the Chokhanis, Dhandhanias, Goenkas, Harlalkas, Ladias, Sarafs, and Sonthalias. 

The entire area of Shekhawati, spanning around 14,000 sq km, has about 2,000 such havelis located near each other. Other areas in Shekhawati where you can explore its beautiful havelis include Ramgarh, Fatehpur, Churu, Nawalgarh, Lachmangarh, Mukundgarh and the lesser-known Mahansar.

The advent of the British led to the relocation of trade routes. Port cities like Bombay, Calcutta, and Madras proved more lucrative in carrying out trade. Thus, merchants and traders began to shift and settle in these port towns for better trade and money. Their beautiful homes that have today captured the curiosity of many around the world, once lay abandoned with this shift.

The Walls That Tell Many Tales

The walls of these palatial homes are draped with paintings representing stories from mythology and folk tales while also giving us a peek into the everyday life of the merchants and their families. One can find symbols of a time when the British influence began to impact the merchants and their lives. Symbols of modernity like motor cars, telephones, and gramophones, among others, began to appear in the murals. Another interesting element to look out for in these frescoes is a meld of these symbols with ancient stories, like Ram and Sita in a motor car.  

Along with the innovation and intricacy with which these were designed, vibrant colours made from natural substances, including indigo and dyes made from flowers and cow urine, were used to colour these frescoes. However, with colonisation, these were also replaced with German paints.

Places To Visit In Shekhawati

Shekhawati is dotted with many such havelis. Of them, there are a few that you must visit to catch a glimpse of the sheer artistic brilliance. The authentic Rajasthani architecture of the Jhunjhunwala Haveli features murals depicting Lord Krishna and gopis, along with a representation of stories from the Ramayana. The frescoes of the palatial Gulab Rai Ladia Haveli will give you a glimpse into Mandawa's everyday life.

You can spot a steam locomotive engine at the massive Aath (eight) Haveli complex in Nawalgarh. It also features the best-preserved frescoes in the area, with bright paintings representing stories from various legends. Another haveli that you must add to your list is Nadin Le Prince Haveli (formerly known as the Nand Lal Devra Haveli and now named after the French artist who restored it) in Fatehpur. Here, you can find murals of Lord Ganesha rapt in musical endeavours. It is one of the most well-kept mansions in the area, and it also houses a gallery, cafe, and lodging facilities. 

The Goenka Haveli in Dundlod has one of the most beautiful open-to-sky chowk (courtyard). Stills from Krishna Lila and other mythological episodes are intricately painted on the walls of this haveli. The standout is the Krishna Jhula (swing) studded with mirror-work and bright hues. It also has some exquisite geometric and floral patterns. 

Apart from the Havelis of Shekhawati, visit the Harlalka Well (Wishing Well). Surrounded by four pillars, this well is considered deeper than an Oocean. According to legend, the well makes the wishes come true. 

The Shree Satta Dada Mandir in Ojatoo, one of the rarest male sati mandirs where a man sacrificed his life for his brother, is also a must-visit. Not only can you pray there, but you can also witness a structure built by a rare moment in history. The trip would remain incomplete without enjoying the Rajasthani ker sangri and daal baati churma.