Forest Escapes

India boasts several breathtaking places that are committed to promoting conservation while nurturing local communities through tourism. These amazing ecostays offer guests the opportunity to experience wildlife up close while striving to protect the animals and their habitat. Visitors can take guided tours led by knowledgeable local guides, get involved in community-based conservation projects, minimise their environmental impact, and actively participate in initiatives that protect delicate ecosystems and diverse wildlife. Here is our pick of five stays where you know that your visit is contributing to the conservation of the environment and the protection of local communities.

Bera Safari Lodge

Wildlife conservationist, naturalist and sommelier Shatrunjay Pratap Singh was on a visit to his ancestral farm in the Jawai region when he heard a loud blast. Upon enquiring, locals told him about the mines that had been allotted by the government. "This landscape is all granite," he explains. "And later on, we came to know that around 140 mines had been planned in the area, and nobody was doing anything about it. With the help of the forest department, we went to the high court and got all those mines cancelled. And I started Bera Safari Lodge."

The Bera area is well-known for being home to leopards. According to forest records, these big cats have been living in this region for more than a century. The mountainous terrain provides a suitable habitat for them. Additionally, the local community of Rabaris are tribesmen who follow the Shiva religion and have domestic livestock in the area. This makes for a plentiful supply of prey for the leopards, as per Singh.

Singh, who has worked with Sula, is a leopard expert who has been studying these animals for many years. He wakes up early to do a recce before taking guests on a tour of the area. He is also a co-author of the book "Leopards & Shepherds of Jawai" and has filmed documentaries such as "Wild Cats of India," "Living with Predators," "Big Cat Kingdom," and "Masters of Disguise." Compelled to find a way to protect the wildlife that he loved seeing, he goes on regular walks and drives to keep track of the area. He is particular about guest etiquette, like banning single-use plastic and not allowing littering. "Guests should be mindful of the age of children accompanying them. Some families bring kids who are not even old enough for the zoo." 

Things To Do

Visit the Jawai Dam, where you'll get to witness a diverse range of migratory and resident bird species, such as Sarus Cranes, Ospreys, Pelicans, and Bar-Headed Geese. Another exciting activity you can look forward to is a bush drive, which will take you through a variety of landscapes in open-top safari jeeps, giving you the opportunity to see wildlife in their natural habitat. You can also experience the unique charm of Jawai by going on a rural village excursion. Here, you'll encounter the captivating Rabari herders and witness their harmonious coexistence with wildlife. Alternatively, opt for a tour of the wilderness of Jawai on an exhilarating cycling adventure. Pedal through pastoral fields, where wild grasslands meet the waters of Jawai Bandh.

Address: Leopard Safari Road, Next to Liloda Temple, Kothar Village, Bera, Rajasthan

Website: berasafarilodge.com

The Sarai At Toria

Speaking about The Sarai at Toria, Joanna Van Gruisen says, "I should mention that the Sarai was not set up to be a wildlife lodge." A half-hour drive from Khajuraho airport, the Sarai At Toria has been named after the neighbouring village of Toria. Located on the banks of the River Ken, opposite the Panna Tiger Reserve, the place is run by Dr Raghu Chundawat, a conservation biologist, and Van Gruisen, a former wildlife documentary filmmaker. A couple with a passion for wildlife and conservation, they aimed to establish a sustainable livelihood in the central Indian region and carry out research and community conservation programmes. Chundawat's main studies have been on snow leopards and tigers. His pioneering ten-year research on tigers took place in the Panna Tiger Reserve and has been immortalised in the BBC Natural World documentary, "Tigers of the Emerald Forest".

"We created it as an environmentally appropriate place to stay for visitors to Khajuraho—at the time, it had very urban generic accommodation and was known in the tourism industry as a one-night stay," says Van Gruisen. "We aimed to change this and to show there was so much more to the area than just the UNESCO World Heritage temples. The Tiger Reserve was, of course, one of these, but it is only one of more than a dozen other possible activities available to the tourist. Our aim has always been to showcase wildlife and nature beyond the tiger and to minimise its use in publicity."

Sustainability and responsibility are at the core of the project. Van Gruisen and Chundawat were determined to create an environmentally friendly haven, so they set out to build cottages with locally available construction materials using traditional techniques acquired from the local villagers. These ensured that the cottages would stay cool in the summer and warm in the winter. The place composts all its wet waste and has an organic garden. And they educate local children on the importance of wildlife conservation. The Sarai at Toria's conservation programmes are operated through their trust, Baavan, Bagh Aap Aur Van—named after the tigress who was the matriarch of Panna during Chundawat's research study there. The long-term objective is to create satellite areas through inclusive conservation models, using tourism as an economic driver.

Things To Do

The Ken is a major river in the Bundelkhand region that flows through the Panna Tiger Reserve. It has a reputation for being one of the cleanest rivers in India and supports wonderful aquatic and avian wildlife. Among the activities you can sign up for are bird and village walks around the camp, along the river edge, through the crop fields to Toria village or even just around the grasslands and forest of the compound. You can also visit the 1000-year-old, intricately carved temples in Khajuraho, a World Heritage Site only half an hour from Sarai at Toria. The Panna Tiger Reserve is one of India's most dramatic scenic parks and an excellent place to see a variety of central India's wildlife. "One USP is the fabulous zen-like boat ride we can offer on the river Ken," says Joanna. "Recently, a young wildlife photographer came and had incredible luck in the national park, having wonderful sightings of tigers, leopards, and even a mother sloth bear with a baby riding her back amongst all else. Yet when I saw the comment she had left in the visitor's book, it said, "The boat ride was the highlight of the trip."

Address: Mela Wali Galli, Village Toria, District, Khajuraho, Madhya Pradesh 471101

Website: saraiattoria.com

Wildernest

A" wildlife corridor" that allows for the free movement of large mammals like tigers, leopards and wild dogs, the Mahdei region is wedged between the tri-state boundaries of Goa, Karnataka and Maharashtra. The region is ecologically important but rich in minerals, too— a dangerous trait for any forest. A trip to the region 20 years ago had prompted Captain Nitin Dhond, a merchant navy captain and Managing Director today, to rescue it from the pressures of timber and mining lobbies and cash crop monoculture planters. His vision brought together a team of nature lovers and wildlife professionals, including Nirmal Kulkarni, a herpetologist and ecologist, to create a dream project that initiated environmentally-conscious tourism in Goa.

"Wildernest Nature Resort was based on the sound principle of 'minimal interference'. We wanted to create a natural aesthetic and infrastructure that blends well with the location—a task that took years to plan and execute," says Kulkarni. Braving rough weather, arduous terrain, a shortage of skilled workers and dwindling resources, the construction phase lasted four years. Today, the place consists of 22 eco-cottages, a restaurant serving local cuisine, a beautiful ionised infinity pool that uses minimal chlorine and an Ayurvedic rejuvenation centre.

A decade and a half after it started operations, and having declared its 900 acres of forest a private sanctuary called Swapnagandha Valley, Wildernest has not only protected vital forests but has also succeeded in curbing wildlife poaching to a large extent and saved the catchments area of two important tributaries of the Mahadayi river—the Halatar nallah and the Valvanti river in Karnataka and Maharashtra respectively. In keeping with its "minimal interference" policy, the resort itself takes up only five acres on this sprawling property.

"I see the evolution of the resort from being a space for nature tourism to a venture that provides an alternative livelihood for locals whose lands were ravaged by mining and timber lobbies," says Kulkarni. "Wildernest has been at the forefront of promoting Acacia and other recycled wood for infrastructure, a trend that is now being emulated across South India. In addition, we have our own bio-waste plants that create manure, a strict implementation of plastic reduction, and a recycle and reuse policy."

Initiating wildlife documentation and research projects with the help of field biologists and ecologists has helped generate vital data on the flora and fauna of the region. "Since we began work, three new species of caecilians (an order of amphibians that superficially resemble earthworms or snakes) have been discovered here besides two species of frogs and a scorpion."

Things To Do

The resort provides an array of experiences, including nature walks, treks, village visits, folk dances and other activities. For those who simply want to unwind, there isn't a better setting. Walk in the realms of nature accompanied by naturalists and treat yourself to a visual experience of the magic of the Western Ghats. Listen to the sounds of endemic birds and the alarm call of a Giant Squirrel or, better still, swim in the crystal clear waters of a cascading waterfall. Their bonfire sessions are the beginning of long friendships between the local community naturalists and guests. Sharing and narrating jungle lore is the only requisite here, while tasty forest roots and shoots are roasted over a slow bonfire. Special encounters with reptile experts, butterfly and bird watchers, and ecologists from various fields are a bonus at Wildernest as they provide first-hand experience with the subject experts and the subjects themselves. Their pottery studio is a fun learning activity centre for the young and old. An art and craft centre is also attached to this studio, where local and traditional craft is promoted. Drive away into unchartered, off-the-road destinations that are home to ancient cultures and endangered wildlife.

Address: Chorla Ghat, off Sankhali, Chorla, Virdi, Goa 403708

Website: wildernest-goa.com

Reni Pani Lodge

At the Reni Pani Jungle Lodge, in the buffer zone of Satpura National Park, the wilderness experience is not restricted only to safari timings. Spread across 32 acres of native forest, with a seasonal stream and rugged hill trails, the lodge is a microcosm of the Satpura habitat. The lodge is managed by naturalists, and all the service staff are locals, which means that nature and wildlife are the primary focus here. Aly Rashid, a member of the Bhopal royal family, was inspired by his love for wildlife to establish and operate Reni Pani Jungle Lodge and has been leading the naturalist team at Reni Pani for over seven years. "We believe that sustainable eco-tourism is a great conservation tool," says Rashid, Director & Field Naturalist at Jehan Numa Wilderness. He is a trained naturalist and ornithologist who has extensively travelled across the country and has been involved in wildlife conservation efforts in various locations. "Almost 15 years ago, when we started Reni Pani, it was a degraded farmland on the edge of a forest. With careful regeneration of the native forest, the lodge is now a micro-habit, not just for the smaller fauna like birds and insects but also as a corridor for large fauna like leopards, sloth bears, wild dogs, and even tigers," says Rashid.

Everything at Reni Pani is tastefully discreet, and its architecture is inspired by the local Gond style. Every attempt has been made to blend in with the surroundings. The cottages and luxury tents fit seamlessly into this wilderness, cleverly concealed amidst swathes of bamboo and teak to afford absolute privacy as well as an unhindered jungle experience. "We employ passionate naturalists who not only guide guests on safari but also impart a world of knowledge to the traveller through exploring Satpura in unique ways like walking, canoeing, camping and horseback riding. It is our endeavour to offer a wilderness experience that is both enriching to the customer and driven by result-bearing conservation values," says Rashid.

Things To Do

Explore the Satpura National Park and Tiger Reserve with knowledgeable naturalists and guides. At Reni Pani Jungle Lodge, the focus is on non-motorised ways of exploring the landscape, including walking, canoeing, cycling, and camping safaris. The naturalists at Reni Pani will take you kayaking on the Tawa Reservoir. Water is central to life in the Satpuras, and many places here are named after it, including the village of Reni Pani, where the reni bush proliferates. There is a plethora of birds to ogle at here, including some revered visitors, like the bar-headed geese from Ladakh.

Address: Sohagpur, Raini Pani, Madhya Pradesh 461771

Website: jehannuma.com/reni-pani-jungle-lodge-satpura-resort

Ken River Lodge

Ken River Lodge is a pioneer in wildlife tourism in India. Shyamendra Singh, the grandson of the Maharaja of Nagod, founded the lodge in 1986 out of his passion for wildlife and conservation. Despite being washed out twice due to floods, once in 1992 and then again in 2005, the lodge was rebuilt with the same zeal and passion. The lodge is located in a 50-acre forested estate and built with natural materials sourced primarily from the neighbouring villages and surrounding areas. "You find the rhythm of preservation, community, and a commitment to a thriving ecosystem in every heartbeat of Ken River Lodge," says Singh. "The lodge-inspired many, many people—local, regional and international. And this is because of the nature-culture experience that Ken Lodge philosophises—how to balance nature, communities, people and economic interests. This mix allowed Ken River Lodge to thrive, prosper and contribute in many positive ways.

The lodge provides an opportunity for guests to delve into nature while learning about conservation efforts and sustainability practices. It allows guests to reconnect with the diverse landscapes, wildlife and communities. The lodge's dedication to sustainability is not limited to preserving pristine landscapes, but it also involves supporting the local communities. "Embracing the essence of eco-lodges, we've not only preserved the natural environment but woven a tapestry of empowerment for Madla and surrounding villages," says Singh.

Their policy of hiring junior staff from the local community has become a cornerstone, fostering employment and contributing to their financial well-being. Nurturing local artisans, from masons to carpenters, plumbers to electricians, sustains and strengthens the community's economic vitality.

The lodge has been a pioneer in many areas. Their involvement in the relocation of tigers demonstrates their commitment to protecting these majestic creatures. They have launched initiatives to safeguard these magnificent beings, which stand as a testament to their enduring dedication. "We introduced night and walking safaris in India, marking a transformative shift by moving people away from poaching and deforestation and towards embracing preservation for enhanced livelihoods," says Singh.

From the otherworldly geology and botanical diversity to the fantastic animals that call it their home and the ancient temples of Khajuraho, the lodge is an experience not to be missed.

Things To Do

Enjoy a carefree boat ride on the mesmerising Ken River with a hands-on rowing experience by our local boatmen. The river ecosystem offers great opportunities for bird watching, especially in the winter months when there are innumerable migratory birds. The Jhinna Safari Camp is an hour's drive through the Panna Tiger Reserve from the lodge and is run by local villagers, offering three mud huts built in the local village's architectural style. Night Safaris are offered, which extend an opportunity to see the nocturnal life. The lodge also boasts a 3,000 sq. ft. Machaan, known as the Tree House, where meals are served. It overlooks the Ken River and offers fresh, home-cooked meals.

Address: Panna National Park, Village Madla, 1/2 Km from Madla Police Station, Panna, Madhya Pradesh 488001

Website: kenriverlodge.com