When Food Becomes Identity

In July 2007, the Delhi Police, under the pretext of maintaining public order, released a booklet that immediately raised eyebrows and stoked outrage. Presented as a guide to social harmony, the document singled out people from India's Northeast, advising women from the region to avoid wearing "revealing dresses" and offering instructions on preparing their traditional dishes in a way that wouldn't create a "ruckus" in the neighbourhood.

The publication ignited a fierce backlash, with accusations of "social profiling" reverberating across the city. Among the voices of dissent was Kiren Rijiju, then a Lok Sabha MP from Arunachal Pradesh, who would later become the Minister of Parliamentary Affairs and Minority Affairs.

Outraged by the cultural imposition implied in the booklet, Rijiju announced plans to escalate the matter to the Union Home Ministry. "If they are dictating food habits and a dress code, then it is a cultural imposition," Rijiju told news agency PTI. "If it is true, I will meet Home Minister Shivraj Patil and lodge a strong protest."

Director Nicholas Kharkongor recalls this incident during his time in Delhi's Humayunpur, a neighbourhood with a vibrant northeastern community. He shared, "We were distraught, outraged even. It felt like a direct affront to our dignity." This sentiment was intensified by the 2014 murder of Nido Tania, a young man from Arunachal Pradesh, who was killed for resisting taunts in Lajpat Nagar. These events significantly impacted Kharkongor, influencing his worldview and storytelling approach.

His 2019 film Axone directly reflects these experiences, as it brought to light the cultural prejudices surrounding tribal cuisines in urban spaces. Through its narrative, Axone celebrates the rich traditions of these states and highlights the challenges of preserving identity and belonging in an urban space often marked by misunderstanding and bias.

"This story had been brewing in my mind for some time," Kharkongor told OT. "In writing the screenplay for Axone, I chose axone, a fermented soyabean from Nagaland, for its unique smell and flavour. It’s used in pickles, chutneys, and curries, and is the most familiar dish from the Northeast available in Delhi and Bangalore, where many Naga restaurants serve it. While other dishes like eromba exist, axone's scent, though beloved in the Northeast, is often considered offensive in urban spaces. For me, it evokes deep nostalgia, taking me back to my childhood in Nagaland."

This sentiment extends to the broader experience of moving from a small town to a metropolis. "In a city where you often feel like the 'other,' encountering unfamiliar people, food, and customs can be disorienting." However, he added, it also deepens appreciation for traditions and flavours that shape one's identity. "It's not just nostalgia—it's a realisation of how these elements strengthen your connection to your roots and cultural heritage," Kharkongor said.

Breaking Bias Lightly

While Axone grapples with the harsh realities of cultural prejudices, it does so with a lightness of touch. Kharkongor recognised the importance of humour in making his film accessible. "Humour could be a powerful tool to engage a wider audience and make serious themes more digestible. It allows us to tackle tough subjects without feeling overly preachy," he explained.

This approach is evident throughout the film. For instance, a scene depicts a Northeastern man with East Asian features and a turban being asked by a woman if he can even see the entire wall with his "small eyes." This seemingly absurd exchange is based on Kharkongor's own experience in Delhi, highlighting the subtle yet pervasive nature of microaggressions. "That kind of incident may sound exaggerated, but it's a real, funny, and sadly common experience for people from the northeast living in Delhi," he said.

Rooted In Culture

Kharkongor's deep-rooted connection to the Northeast proved invaluable in ensuring the film's cultural authenticity. As a native of the region, he understood its nuances intimately, from the complexities of the characters and community to the unique flavours of the local cuisine. This knowledge guided every aspect of the production. For instance, the film meticulously recreates the region's culinary landscape, utilising authentic Northeastern ingredients sourced directly from the region.

However, maintaining complete authenticity presented its own set of challenges. "Ideally, regional actors would have filled all the main roles. However, logistical constraints and budgetary limitations made this difficult. Despite the significant presence of people from the Northeast in Delhi, finding actors proved challenging due to their professional and academic commitments," Kharkongor admitted.

To mitigate these challenges, the filmmaker prioritised casting the most talented actors available while ensuring the film accurately reflected the area's diverse linguistic landscape. "We worked extensively with actors to capture the essence of the accents, recognising the vast linguistic diversity within these states," Kharkongor explained.

"Furthermore, filming on location and incorporating authentic cultural details, with the invaluable input of team members from the region, played a crucial role in preserving the film's cultural integrity."

Bridging Worlds

Kharkongor is frequently asked whether Axone has altered perceptions of the Northeast. While he acknowledged the film's potential impact, he emphasised the importance of recognising the shared humanity that connects us all. "Cinema is a powerful bridge, familiarising audiences with unfamiliar communities and traditions, and ultimately fostering empathy by highlighting our shared experiences."

This sentiment is echoed in his numerous interactions with audiences, particularly in cosmopolitan cities like Delhi and Bangalore, where many non-residents have shared a new understanding of the challenges faced by people from the Northeast."

They tell me how they've encountered individuals from the region in daily life but never considered their struggles until watching Axone," he said. "The film has made them realise the unique and often difficult realities people from the Northeast face."

Interestingly, Axone has sparked curiosity among some viewers about exploring the region firsthand. While the travel-inspired impact is yet to be fully measured, anecdotal evidence suggests a noticeable shift.

"Humayunpur, the Delhi neighbourhood that serves as the film's setting and is home to a significant community from the Northeast, has reportedly seen an uptick in visitors from other parts of India. This suggests that the film has piqued interest in the region's unique culture and cuisine, encouraging people to explore authentic dishes at local establishments," Kharkongor said.

East Meets Northeast

A common misconception is that Northeastern cuisine is drastically different and perhaps even unpalatable. However, this perception is far from reality. Due to the region's proximity to Southeast Asia, Northeastern cuisine shares certain commonalities with cuisines from Japan, Thailand, and Korea.

"For example, while Naga and Japanese cuisines both use fermented soyabeans in dishes like miso soup and nattō, the culinary techniques differ," Kharkongor explained. "Miso soup is a milder version of axone, while nattō is typically made from fermented whole soyabeans. Despite these differences, the shared ingredients reflect broader Southeast Asian culinary traditions found in both."

He has personally witnessed this firsthand, observing that initial hesitancy towards Northeastern food often diminishes once individuals recognise the familiar flavours that connect it to other Southeast Asian cuisines they already appreciate. Kharkongor also recalled an interesting discussion at the London Film Festival, where Axone premiered. During a Q&A, it was noted how Indian curry, once regarded as an offensive smell in the UK during the 1960s, has now become a staple of British cuisine—demonstrating how perceptions of food and scent can change over time.

While Axone has undoubtedly made a significant impact, Kharkongor is quick to emphasise that the responsibility for amplifying Northeastern voices extends beyond a single film. "One film isn't enough. A wave of new films is emerging, and it's on all of us to keep showcasing the richness of Northeastern culture and experiences," he said.

Changing Perspectives

Encouragingly, media representation of the Northeast is gradually evolving. Two decades ago, an advertisement featuring a person of Northeastern origin among a group of South Asian faces would likely have caused confusion, with viewers mistakenly assuming they were foreign. Today, such depictions are becoming increasingly commonplace in urban settings like Delhi and Mumbai, signifying a growing awareness and acceptance of Northeastern identities.

While these developments are encouraging, Kharkongor believes that cinema possesses a unique power to profoundly shape perceptions. "The increased visibility of Northeastern voices in film is crucial for fostering deeper understanding and challenging existing stereotypes."

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