Preserving Summer: Ladakh's Age-Old Storage Traditions

To make a comforting bowl of Thukpa during the winter in Ladakh, preparations begin as early as May. The vegetables used in the dish are harvested and stored long before the snow sets in, the herbs are dried during the sunny months, and the yak meat is hung to freeze days before the Losar celebrations start in December.

Remains Of The Season

Located in the Trans-Himalaya at an altitude of 2,900-5,900 metres above sea level, winter in Ladakh leans towards the extreme. The cold-arid desert experiences sub-zero temperatures and heavy snowfall, lasting for at least six months. During this time, the only food source for the people of Ladakh is what they grew in the five summer months, from April to September. As Ladakh remains cut off from the rest of the world during these harsh months, the locals have developed indigenous storage and preservation techniques that are still practised today. These methods are simple but effective, considering the extreme conditions.

Kunzes Angmo, a food researcher, chef, and founder of Artisanal Alchemy in Leh, explains, "To understand our food culture and why we eat what we eat, it is important to understand the agro-climatic and geo-ecological factors of the land." Through her venture, Angmo has dedicated herself to introducing people to authentic Ladakhi cuisine, offering experiential dining experiences that include sit-down meals alongside an exploration of Ladakh’s history. "At the end of the day, what you eat depends on what the earth sustains. This predates any other factor considered important, like food policies, exports and imports, and even religion," Angmo says.

The extreme weather conditions in Ladakh led to innovative storage techniques, as the region is sometimes cut off from even the next village due to heavy snowfall. As Angmo explains, "Every family, therefore, was a self-sufficient unit who grew what they ate and ate what they grew."

In Ladakh, vegetables like carrots and turnips are harvested in summer but stored for winter use. "Every house has a trench-style room on the lower floor, which is completely dark and has no ventilation. This is where we keep the vegetables, grown in summer, covered with mitti (dry soil)," says Angmo. The temperature can drop to -20°C, so the vegetables are covered with a thick layer of mitti, which keeps them from freezing and rotting. This process, known as "root-cellaring," takes place in a dark and closed room traditionally called tsothbang. It ensures that vegetables stay fresh and edible until May.

Another storage method is the use of a pit, called sandong, dug in the garden. Angmo shares, "My parents would fill up big sacks with all the vegetables set aside for winter and dig up the garden to bury it. This would be covered with a layer of mitti for the same reasons." The pit is at least 150-180 cm deep and 90-120 cm wide. Once winter is over, the leftover vegetables are retrieved, and the ground is filled with earth again, ready for the next harvest season.

Under The Sun

"In my village and across Ladakh, the technique of sun-drying vegetables and herbs has been around since ancient times," says Nilza Wangmo, chef and founder of Alchi Kitchen, who is also a recipient of the prestigious Nari Shakti Puraskar. The foraged herbs would be washed carefully and laid out in the sun for a few hours until they were fully dried.

Padma Yangchan, also a Nari Shakti Puraskar awardee for her significant contributions to reviving Ladakh's age-old culinary traditions, reflects on the changes in taste over time. She says, "Earlier, the same thing would taste so different. It would be so much more flavourful."

Making The Meat

The practice of dehydration in Ladakh extends beyond fruits and vegetables to include meat and dairy products, a technique especially prevalent among the Changpa nomads of Changthang. Since they are always on the move, carrying dehydrated meat is easier and lighter. In villages across Ladakh, the process of dehydrating meat typically begins during the Ladakhi New Year, or Losar.

"The animal (most commonly yak) is sacrificed and kept as it is for a few days until it freezes. After that, thin strips are cut and hung up in a dark room (a common feature in every house) to dry. Some people also rub salt on it," explains Yangchan.

The dried yak meat is commonly used in thukpas, but Yangchan mentions another ancient local dish that uses frozen meat, which resembles the French tartare. The meat is pounded and then mixed with spices like yellow chilli flakes, salt, and pepper. The dish, known as Shapchen or Sharjen, is completed when simmering cha khunag (light green tea) is poured over it.

Of The Past

Ladakh’s unique storage techniques and dehydrating methods emerged out of its challenging circumstances. For the longest time, the region had to rely solely on itself to survive the six months of isolation and extreme scarcity. However, things have changed. "In villages and among older communities, these traditions continue to prevail. What had to be grown before can now be easily found in markets, even in winter," says Angmo.

Self-reliance wasn’t the only quality that flourished despite harsh conditions. People also knew how to live in harmony with nature. For example, sea buckthorn was not traditionally harvested for consumption. "Our ancestors never harvested sea buckthorn. Instead, it was left for birds to feast on during the winter months," Angmo explains.

However, with the younger generation moving away from these practices and opting for more convenient methods, many of these traditions are being lost. The main issue lies in the lack of documentation and acknowledgment of these unique, innovative survival practices that have helped the region endure its toughest months.