A Taste Of Thailand At Delhi's New Restaurant, Bo Tai

A certain someone&rsquos fresh-from-the-oven legacy is swiftly being cooked to perfection. I speak of Zorawar Kalra, not Jiggs (whose legacy is incontestable), and how he continues to revolutionise the industry with Massive Restaurants Pvt. Ltd, one opening at a time.

While I have thoroughly enjoyed meals at his restaurants, I have usually had some minor quibbles. I find that difficult to do with the all-new Bo Tai, which offers modern Thai and Italian grills. This may just be his most evolved brand yet. Here&rsquos why Bo Tai enters the fray at the stylish One Style Mile district in Mehrauli, which big guns like The Grammar Room and Olive Bar & Kitchen have already elevated to extraordinary standards. But the restaurant is confident of its abilities right at the onset&mdashit has a picturesque walkway, opulent stairway and a black-beige-gold interior to show for it. The indoor seating reflects this aesthetic, while both the al-fresco rooftop sections have a casual lounge vibe with a hint of romance (candlelights, the moonlight and the Qutub Minar at a distance).

However, as impressive as Bo Tai already seems, the cocktails further amp things up. They have roped in London-based Dino Koletsas to develop a signature menu with some of the most innovative tipple I have seen. The Full Moon Festival is my favourite. Inspired by Loi Krathong, a Thai festival (each signature corresponds to Thai folklore), it has a gin base, strawberry and rose syrup, grapefruit, orange syrup, lime and a bunch of other ingredients. This potpourri, somehow, has a soupy taste, but the kind that you would rather hic down. Another is the Bangkok Boulevard. It is a little gimmicky&mdashcomes in a glass sprayed with, um, actual gold&mdashbut this whisky, tropical vermouth, honey lime and sparkling wine-based concoction has a taste that trumps its ostentatiousness.

Chef Sahil Singh of Pa Pa Ya fame is helming Bo Tai as well, so the food is not a concern. Purple is my favourite colour, and when the smelted rice-flour dumplings came wearing the shade, they won by sheer aesthetics. And, yes, they had a taste to match. The scallop carpaccio is the perfect hors d'oeuvre&mdashrefreshing, adequately flavoured and functioning like a palate cleanser. The duck sausage is a flavour fest&mdashsomething I had not anticipated as I usually find the meat bland. Among the main course dishes, the massaman curry with steamed rice (served in a cross between a wine glass and a fish bowl)&mdashas authentic a Thai dish as it gets&mdashis a standout.

Nothing caps a meal as well as a good dessert. The kabocha custard tart with mango ice
cream introduced me to the Japanese pineapple. It also gave me quite the &lsquofood&rsquo for thought&mdashas with this fruit, Bo Tai uses plenty of ingredients sourced from other countries. So, effectively, wasn&rsquot the entire world in my tummy

Where Bo Tai, 6/4, Kalka Das Marg, Near Qutub Minar, Mehrauli, New Delhi

Contact botai.qutub@massiverestaurants.com