There are places where wildlife is something you search for. And then there is Kaziranga, where it seems to find you first. Set against the sweeping floodplains of the Brahmaputra in Assam, this UNESCO World Heritage Site is one of India’s most extraordinary conservation success stories. Here, prehistoric-looking rhinos graze in tall elephant grass, herds of buffalo churn up marshes, and somewhere beyond the reeds, a tiger watches unseen.

