The Climb: A 12-Day Expedition To The Everest Base Camp

Setting off on a trek to the Everest Base Camp is a dream adventure for any thrill-seeker. When I learnt that my college classmates were planning such an expedition, I eagerly joined in. Our group comprised 11 members: Suhana, Praveen, Rajesh, Sebius, Premkishore, Vinod (accompanied by his wife Ritu), Manosij, Soji, Sreerekha, and myself. Planning and discussions began in July 2023, all geared toward our anticipated journey scheduled for April 2024.

Our tour operators, representatives from Alpine Ramble Treks Pvt. Ltd., met us at the Tribhuvan airport and escorted us to the hotel Thamel Park. The evening was spent strolling the market and dining at a nearby restaurant.

15th April: Kathmandu

The day began with a hearty buffet breakfast at the hotel, followed by a guided local sightseeing tour. We visited the Swayambhunath Stupa, which is an ancient Buddhist temple complex dating back to AD 600; then we were off to the Durbar Square, which served as the Royal residence before Nepal transitioned from monarchy to democracy; and finally, the Pashupatinath temple. With souvenirs in hand from all these places, we returned to the hotel, cherishing the enriching experience.

In the evening, the Alpine Ramble group leader briefed us about the entire EBC trek, which covered the itinerary, Altitude Mountain Sickness (AMS), do's and don'ts, terrain and weather, amenities available along the trek route, currency required, etc. Following the briefing, each of us received an Alpine T-shirt, a fleece cap, a sleeping bag, a down jacket, and a duffle bag. Out of these, the down jacket, sleeping bag and duffle bag were to be returned after our trek.

I started taking Diamox (half a tablet, which was 125 mg per dose) every 12 hours from this day to counter AMS.

16th April: Ramechhap

After a couple of hours of sleep, we woke up at 12:45 am, prepared ourselves for the day, and made the final arrangements for our trek. It was crucial to ensure everyone adhered to the weight restrictions: a total of 15 kg per person, with 10 kg allowed in the duffle bag and 5 kg in the backpack. Anything exceeding this limit would not be permitted on the Lukla flight. Known as the most dangerous flight in the world, the Lukla flight is notorious for its challenging approach due to the terrain, weather, and the short airstrip that ends at the edge of a large cliff.

We were to fly to Lukla from a place called Ramechhap, a five-hour drive from Kathmandu. We arrived in Ramechhap at 6:45 am. The weather was clear, and our spirits soared upon spotting our Sita Airlines plane stationed on the small runway. However, our joy was short-lived when we learned that the weather at Lukla was unfavourable, and we would have to wait for the airport to open. Missing the Lukla flight on the planned day also meant losing a day of acclimatisation during the trek, so a Plan B involving taking a helicopter to Lukla was also discussed. However, this would cost an additional US $400 per person. After an agonising wait for the next couple of hours, we received the disappointing news that neither a flight nor a helicopter ride was possible for the day.

The Alpine group quickly arranged a small lodge for us within walking distance from the airport. We lunched on a typical Nepalese thali of Dal-bhaath, which would become our staple food throughout our 12-day trek. The thali comprised steamed rice, dal (resembling a lentil soup due to its thin consistency), a green leafy dry sabji, and aloo bhaji.

17th April: Flight to Lukla

To our relief, the airport finally opened the next day. Our group of 11, plus an Australian solo traveller and our three guides from the Alpine group, boarded the Sita Airlines plane. We took off around 7:45 am.

As we ascended, the landscape below transitioned from lush green and brown to the majestic Himalayas. Within 10 minutes, I began to spot distant ice-capped peaks, creating a breathtaking skyline against the backdrop of the bright, sunny day. I observed small villages nestled along the way, perched on hilltops. It was truly remarkable to witness mankind surviving and thriving in such challenging terrains.

Upon landing at Lukla at 8:15 am, we were guided to a café cum lodge called the Northface Lodge, which wasn't very far from the airport. (Such café cum lodges are called teahouses in this part of the world). We enjoyed a lavish breakfast, and for drinks, we all ordered honey ginger lemon, a choice that remained constant during our trek. After breakfast, everyone's Oxygen level was checked and recorded.

Day 1: Lukla (Altitude 2860m) to Phakding (2610m). Distance 7-8 km

Our trek to the EBC started soon after breakfast. As per the briefing from the previous day, it was anticipated to be the easiest day primarily because it involved mostly descent. The weather was bright and sunny, with temperatures hovering around 12-13°C and accompanied by a gentle breeze. For the trek, I layered up with a couple of T-shirts and a fleece jacket. The backpack contained a raincoat, two water bottles, sunscreen, lip balm, woollen caps, gloves, protein bars, water purifying tablets, an ORS sachet, basic medicines, a Volini spray, a face mask, and small gifts for the local women and children. Additionally, I had packed a shawl to be used as a screen in case any of the girls needed a bio-break during the trek.

Soon after crossing the second check-post, it began to drizzle. Everyone took out their raincoats and proceeded with the trek in full force. The Dudh-Koshi River also made its appearance, meandering through the valley along our path. We crossed our first swinging bridge, and the sight was incredibly picturesque.

The trek turned out to be more challenging than anticipated, especially for the first day. It comprised a mix of uphill and downhill stretches, contrary to what we were informed about it being primarily a descent. The narrow trekking path was rugged and made of stones. Throughout our trek, we constantly stopped and gave way to porters and Jockeys (a cross between yaks and buffaloes), the primary means of transporting goods in the mountains, including construction materials. It was truly remarkable to witness the sheer amount of luggage that the porters carried on their backs as they trekked. Even our 12-15kg duffle bags were carried by the porters. With six porters allocated to our group of 12, each porter shouldered the burden of two bags, equating to approximately 25 kilograms of weight for each.

On our journey, we encountered stunning rock stupas adorned with intricate inscriptions in the Brahmi language, accompanied by Buddhist prayer flags comprising five colours fluttering around them. It's customary to always pass a stupa from the left, adhering to the traditional practice.

After a 3-hour trek, we arrived at Khumbu Lodge in Phakding around 2 pm. The weather was once again cloudy and windy. This was a pattern we encountered throughout our expedition: bright, sunny mornings followed by a sudden shift to cloudy, windy conditions around 2 pm every day. At about 4 pm, we went for a walk around, during which we crossed another suspension bridge and descended to the bank of the Dudh-Koshi River via a narrow, beaten path to be enveloped by the breathtaking beauty of our surroundings.

Every day after dinner, our lead guide, Tek, briefed us about the plans for the next day and the preparations required. According to the briefing, Day 2 of the trek, to Namche Bazaar was expected to be one of the toughest days, with a significant uphill climb and nearly double the distance covered compared to the first day. We would have to cross five suspension bridges along the way, with the last one being the famous Hillary Bridge. We were to meet at the breakfast table at 7 in the morning and start the trek at 8 am. It had been the norm to start the trek early in the morning during our expedition so that we could cover the maximum distance before the sunshine gave way to clouds and chilled winds later in the day.

18th April, Day 2: Phakding (2610m) to Namche Bazar (3440m). Distance 13 km

We crossed one hill after another in regular uphill and downhill succession. The trek was getting challenging with each step. The path varied between stone steps and concrete pathways, with habitations scattered along the way. We continued to distribute the gifts we had brought for the locals, lightening our loads and bringing joy to the women and children we met. The gifts included notebooks, pens, pencils, and colours for kids, as well as earrings, bangles, bindis, hair bands, lipstick, and nail polish for the women.

Despite being a group of eleven, everyone walked at their own pace, but we made a concerted effort to stick together as much as possible. Walking as a unit brought numerous benefits, including regular reminders to hydrate every 15-20 minutes and the constant support we offered one another, including retrieving essentials from backpacks and sharing snacks together. Before lunch, we crossed four suspension bridges, and the scenery was beautiful, with the Dudh-Koshi River flowing alongside our trekking route and vibrant Rhododendrons adorning trees.

Every day around 1:30 pm, we would stop at a teahouse for a well-deserved break during our trek. We crossed the Hillary Bridge, the longest suspension bridge along this trekking route. Crossing these suspension bridges left us breathless, especially as we reached the end of the steep ascent.

After about three and a half hours of this gruelling trek post lunch, we finally reached the Gate of Namche Bazaar, but the trek wasn't over. We were asked to keep walking towards Sakura Lodge, located on the other end of Namche. Upon passing through the Namche Gate, we were greeted by a line of huge prayer wheels set in motion by the rushing water from a man-made stream.

19th April, Day 3: Namche Bazar (3440m) à Everest View Hotel (3880m)à Namche Bazar. Distance 5 km

The early morning view of the surrounding peaks from Namche bazar was breathtaking, with the sight of sunrise casting a golden glow on the snowcapped Himalayan range. We were told we would see Mt. Everest for the first time during our acclimatisation trek to the Everest View Hotel. As part of our daily routine before setting out for the trek, after freshening up, we generously applied moisturiser and sunscreen, reapplying the latter every two hours during the trek.

After the initial difficulty in the climb, the terrain levelled out, resembling a plateau. As we approached Everest View Hotel, approximately a kilometre away, our guide directed our attention to the majestic peak of Mount Everest. Another gorgeous peak that we witnessed was Ama Dablam, which rose high like a pyramid kissing the sky.

We wore face masks/buffs as a shield throughout the second half of the trek to keep away dust, although wearing it made breathing feel even more difficult due to the thin air. We were treated to a breathtaking sight of the majestic Mt. Everest from the hotel. As we stood in awe, marvelling at the moment's grandeur, our lead guide introduced us to Kami Rita Sherpa, an extraordinary individual who, until then, held the world record for 28 successful summits of Mount Everest. (Remarkably, as I pen down this travelogue, news has arrived that he has achieved his 30th summit of Mt. Everest! What is even more astounding is that he accomplished this feat twice within a month.)

Soon, we went back to our lodge in Namche Bazaar, and in the evening, a few of us decided to explore the bazaar, indulging in some window shopping. However, by nightfall, a few members of our group began to exhibit some symptoms of AMS, such as diarrhoea, fever, and headaches. We monitored our SpO2 levels, with mine registering among the lowest at 73. Despite this, I didn't encounter any other AMS-related problems.

20th April, Day 4: Namche Bazar (3440m) à Debuche (3878m). Distance 12.5 km

It was a picturesque day, bathed in bright sunlight with a clear blue sky, but it proved challenging as we endured another strenuous trek and braved various weather conditions. Following a post-lunch dust storm, a drizzle, and even a light snowfall, we finally arrived at Debuche.

It was 5 pm when we reached our teahouse. As the temperature dropped suddenly, our group sought refuge around the fireplace in the café area of the teahouse, seeking instant warmth before settling into our icy-cold rooms.

21st April, Day 5: Debuche (3878m) to Dingboche (4410m). Distance 11.6 km

At the breakfast table, we realised that Ritu's condition had deteriorated since the previous day. Therefore, she and Vinod made the difficult but prudent decision not to continue with the trek further up. Recognising the importance of immediate action in cases of Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS), they opted to return to Namche Bazaar, as descending to a lower altitude is recommended. Meanwhile, Manosij, who was battling a severe cough and cold, chose to ride a pony for the upcoming trek.

We got ready to trek beyond the 4000m altitude mark. The landscape underwent a dramatic transformation on the way. Gone were the trees and bushes and any kind of vegetation. Instead, we found ourselves surrounded by what resembled a Himalayan desert. The barren, arid terrain stretched out before us, a stark reminder of the harsh beauty of the Himalayas. We reached Dingboche at 2:30 pm, and as the air got thinner, breathing was more difficult.

Given the modified itinerary due to the flight delay to Lukla, our planned acclimatisation day in Dingboche was forfeited. But since we had reached our destination a little early today, we decided to take the acclimatisation trek to the nearby hillock that our guide suggested. At this point, we were at an altitude of about 4600m. We took a few photographs of the beautiful surroundings before returning to our Goodluck Lodge.

22nd April, Day 6: Dingboche (4410m) to Lobuche (4920m). Distance 7.6 km

The next day, we ventured deeper into the heart of the Himalayas, with the snow-capped peaks looming ever closer, casting a majestic aura over our journey. The terrain remained manageable until we reached Thukla after three hours of trekking. From Thukla, it was a steep ascent for the next one hour that culminated at a Stupa and a plateau-like area adorned with monuments commemorating trekkers and Everest climbers who had lost their lives in their pursuit of the summit.

Navigating the final 2 kilometers of our trek proved to be a different challenge altogether. Thankfully, Namche onwards, I was carrying two walking poles on which I relied heavily. To compound matters, biting winds whipped icy cold air and dust around us, prompting me to cling tightly to my hat to prevent it from being whisked away by the gusts.

23rd April, Day 7: Lobuche (4920m) to Gorakshep / EBC (5364m); Distance 10.5 km

The day everyone had been dreaming of finally arrived. With immense excitement and eagerness to reach Everest Base Camp and achieve the final milestone, we set out from Lobuche after an early breakfast.

For the first time, I wore my downjacket on top of four layers of clothing, two woollen caps, and the downjacket cap on top of it. The trek was steep and uphill until we reached Gorakshep. The Dudh-Koshi River was frozen entirely here, and we were surrounded by snow and glaciers. It took us about four hours to reach Gorakshep, which was four kilometres from Lobuche. After a quick lunch we started for the final destination – the Everest Base Camp. As advised by our guide, we all bought bottled water because there is no water source there, so the water quality is not good.

Finally, we reached EBC at 2:30 pm. The weather was clear, and we could witness a pristine view of Mt. Everest and all the surrounding peaks. As always, a tuft of cloud emanated from its peak, adding to the majestic view. Surrounded by glaciers and snowy Himalayan mountains, I felt like I was standing in a giant snow bowl. It was a very overwhelming moment, and it felt like all the struggles we faced made sense and were worth every bit. In the warmth of the moment, for a while, we didn't even realise that we were at a place where the temperature was -16°C.

After spending nearly an hour there, we began our trek back at 3:30 pm and arrived at Gorakshep by 5:30 pm. We were fully drained, yet ecstatic having accomplished our mission. However, little did we know that the test of our physical and mental endurance was far from over. Seeing everyone's condition that evening, we decided to skip the Kala Patthar trek.

24th April, Day 8: Gorakshep (5140m) to Pheriche (4200m); Distance 12.5 km

And the descent began.

We crossed Lobuche (4920m) and reached Thukla (4600m), where we took a short break. The landscape flattened out after Thukla, but the winds blowing between the mountain ranges on both sides were ice-cold. The temperature was around -10 to -12°C, and the high wind velocity made it feel even worse.

We arrived at our teahouse in Pheriche around 4:30 pm. I was shivering from the cold. Little did I know, this day would be the start of a cough that would linger for about two months, even after returning from Everest Base Camp.

25th April, Day 9: Pheriche (4200m) to Namche Bazar (3440m); Distance 19.7 km

We gradually descended in altitude by crossing the hills, making it a combination of uphill and downhill walking. It was an exceptionally long trek. We reached at about 6 pm. After dinner, Sree and the guys went to the Hungry Yak bar to celebrate the successful summit of EBC.

26th April, Day 10: Namche Bazar (3440m) to Lukla (2860m); Distance 19.7 km

With the oxygen levels improving every step, it didn't feel as challenging. We stayed together for almost the entire trek, taking lots of pictures along the way. Everyone was thinking about the flight from Lukla to Ramchhep. We all prayed and hoped that the flight would take off as scheduled the next day. Our lead guide, Tek, gave us the final briefing at the dinner table. He then presented us with Himalayan trekking cards issued in our names from the Lukla check-post to take back as a souvenir.

27th April: Return from Lukla

We all assembled in the teahouse by 6 am and were super happy to see and hear the flights taking off. Our duffel bags and backpacks were ready, and breakfast was finished by 7. But just as it was time for our flight, we learned that the airport had closed due to winds and bad weather. The news was disheartening. We found ourselves in a state of prolonged waiting, each moment feeling like an eternity. We endured a couple of hours of waiting, but unfortunately, the weather showed no signs of improvement, dashing our hopes for the airport to open that day.

Our guide informed us that there was a possibility of traveling to a place called Phaplu by chopper, from where we could travel to Kathmandu by road. The cost of the chopper would be $400 per person. After some thought, we all agreed to it.

It took 5-6 hours before we could get a chopper. However, we were transported from Lukla helipad to Phaplu in just 15 minutes. We took breaks along the way to stretch our arms and legs. During these stops, the local rum "Khukri" and a mineral water by the name "Suhana" was bought a couple of times.

The rugged terrain presented numerous challenges, with stretches devoid of proper roads, streetlights, or any signs of civilisation. As the clock struck midnight on our journey, my friends asked the driver to stop, and we all stepped out of the jeep to celebrate my 50th birthday. It was an exhilarating experience, ushering in the 50th year of my life in such a unique manner - amidst the winding roads of the hills, in an unfamiliar location, under the midnight sky, surrounded by friends who had journeyed together to the base camp of the world's highest peak.

As I flew back to Delhi later, I thought about the journey with much pride and fondness. This was a milestone celebration, an unforgettable moment that will stay with me for a lifetime.