On The Trail Of The Snow Leopard: Day 1

Tsewang Norbu, a man in his early fifties, doesn't strike you as an expert "spotter" at first glance. Yet, from dawn to dusk, his eyes are glued to his telescope, scouring the endless folds of the mountains around him. His target? The legendary snow leopard (shan in Ladakhi), the "ghost of the Himalayas," a creature so elusive it seems to exist only in whispers and fleeting shadows.

We met Norbu this morning in Village Ulley, which is situated approximately two hours away from Leh. Having spent two days acclimatising in the capital of Ladakh, a crucial step for adjusting to the high altitudes, we embarked on our journey to Ulley. The village is situated in the Sham region of central Ladakh, located to the north of the Indus River.

The journey to the village was filled with winding roads that navigated through an array of mountains. What made the trip truly remarkable was the ever-changing landscape. Every turn presented a new spectacle—the mountains seemed to don different colours every few hundred meters. From vibrant reds to golden yellows and then to darker, almost black shades, the scenery continuously transformed.

In Ulley, most men, just like Norbu, dedicate their days to tracking the elusive snow leopard, while the women manage homestays. The village consists of merely six families, housing around 40 or so residents. Our lodging for the next four days was arranged at the Snow Leopard Lodge, positioned at an altitude of around 13,000 feet above sea level.

As soon as we arrived, a steaming bowl of garlic soup (sgokpa) was pressed into our hands. This pungent brew thins the blood vessels and enhances the flow of blood in the body. With our energies replenished, we stepped out into the sub-zero air, heading to "Level 1," the first vantage point in Norbu's network of leopard-watching posts. Despite the bone-chilling cold outside, our Columbia gear, including a down jacket, cap, base-layer innerwear, trekking shoes, pants, gloves, etc., kept us going.

"Patience is key," Norbu murmured, his gaze fixed on the distant peaks. "Sometimes, weeks melt into one another before we catch a glimpse of the snow leopard. They are masters of camouflage, blending into the rocks like phantoms."

Suddenly, his walkie-talkie crackled to life, shattering the silence. "Brother! wolf on the opposite mountain! Level 3, quick!" In a flurry of activity, telescopes were packed into the back of our Innova, and we were off, racing towards the highest point, Level 3 (lungtsar). A 10-minute drive later, we stood breathless at the panoramic vista of the valley sprawled beneath us. But the wolf (kirkir thang), cunning as it is, had vanished behind a veil of rocks.

However, Level 3 held its own treasures. A few old homes sat, nestled amongst the rocks, one whispering tales of over 400 years. Even more interestingly, an octogenarian grandmother (api), her face etched with the wisdom of countless winters, welcomed us into her traditional Ladakhi home.

Stepping into her kitchen (chantsa) was like entering a museum of utensils. Each pot and ladle bore the silent imprint of generations of women, their stories etched in time. She also led us to the village shrine (lhagang), its walls adorned with hand-painted murals.

As the temperature began to plummet, signalling the conclusion of our day's adventure, it was time to return to our rooms. Bracing the cold winds in our Columbia HeatBringer Puffer Jacket— with recycled synthetic down insulation and a golden thermal-reflective lining—we walked to our lodging. Though the snow leopard remained elusive, the day gifted us with more—a glimpse into the soul of Ulley, a village where patience is a virtue and nature whispers secrets.

The Background

We are in Ulley village for four days, from Dec 18 to 21, to capture that one shot of the elusive snow leopard. The village, a lesser-known jewel of Ladakh, is known for its snow leopard sightings. The trip has been curated by Sublime Wilderness Odyssey, a Bangalore-based safari travel company specialising in offering private experiences. To cope with the severe cold in the region, we got various products from Columbia, a company headquartered in the United States that specialises in crafting and supplying outerwear, sportswear, footwear, headwear, camping equipment, ski attire, and outdoor accessories.

The Information

Getting There: From Leh airport, Ulley is about two hours by road. Do ensure you acclimatise for two days in Leh.

Where To Stay: There are a few homestays in Ulley that locals run. In addition, The Snow Leopard Lodge provides basic accommodation and dining.