I stood on top of the Parfi La (3,900 m), the last pass on the high trail to Zanskar. Below me, like a detailed tapestry, were spread cultivated fields in neat checkerboard patterns of yellow and brown with the aquamarine Zanskar river running through the valley. Next to me, my guide and cook Tenzing Tsondup's smile was infectious. He could not hide the joy at looking down on his homeland. Tenzing and I had come to Zanskar the hard way. Eight days earlier a Tata Sumo had dropped us from Leh to the village of Wanla, near the monastery of Lamayuru. From Wanla we had crossed seven passes, some above 5,000 metres, until finally, we stood on the last one—Parfi La. The prayer flags atop the pass danced crazily in the breeze while all around us were gnarled ochre-coloured hills weather-beaten by the snow and wind. We took a deep breath and started walking down. In a few hours we were at the Ibex Hotel, Padum, back in civilisation.
On The High Trail To Zangla Fort in Zanskar Valley
An unexpected meeting with the king leaves the author delighted after a strenuous trek to the Zangla Fort
Journeying To Zangla on Foot
Padum, the district headquarters of Zanskar, is a good base from which to explore the surrounding monasteries in the valley. We had two days in Padum before returning to Leh and decided to visit Karsha, Stongdey and Zangla.
That afternoon, we hired a taxi and were en route to the largest monastery in Zanskar, Karsha. Karsha, situated ten kilometres from Padum, is a monastery of the Gelukpa sect and houses around a hundred monks. The monastery was founded by Phagspa Shesrab around the tenth century. Like many of the monasteries in Ladakh and Tibet, Karsha is built like a fortress and stands defiantly against a hillside. As we drove across the central plain, we could see the monastery from a great distance. We parked at the bottom of the hill and started walking to the top. The buildings were at different levels with whitewashed walls and bold maroon borders. Dogs lay asleep in the sun while young lamas laughed and giggled at us, vanishing from view the instant we tried to take a photograph. We passed a line of chortens, freshly painted. Prayer wheels were being turned by the locals as they too did their pilgrimage of the monastery. We finally reached the main prayer hall where the central image of the Maitreya Buddha was about three storeys high. All around were intricate paintings of the life of the Buddha, the Bodhisattvas and scenes depicting the victory of good over evil. The "wheel of life" occupied a prominent place at the entrance of the hall. On one side were the Tibetan religious texts, the "kangyurs"—hundreds of books lining an entire wall. Tenzing immediately prostrated himself in prayer before the altar.
As the sun set, a senior lama seated himself in the courtyard of the monastery and started his evening prayers, in this throne room fit for the gods.
The next morning we started for Stongdey which also happened to be Tenzing's village. The monastery was perched a good three hundred metres above the village. Stongdey is around eighteen kilometres north of Padum on the road to Zangla. It was September, the harvesting season, and we passed farmers threshing and winnowing grain. Tenzing suddenly stopped the car and said, "We'll walk up from here", and vanished up a trail which looked fit for a mountain goat. With a groan, I followed him but thankfully the trail soon eased up and we were enjoying our climb. A lammergeier soared past us and as I fumbled with the camera, the shot was lost Within an hour we were at the entrance of Stongdey.
Walking Among Monks
The Gelukpa monastery of Stongdey is the second largest in Zanskar and houses about sixty monks. As we walked in, a lama accosted me—"did I have some medicines for a headache?" Luckily I did and handed him a couple of tablets. He then took Tenzing and me for a tour of the monastery. In the main courtyard, the lamas were seated in the autumn sun. It was lunchtime and soup and Tibetan bread were being served from the kitchen. We were asked to join the meal and suddenly I realised that I was starving, having had breakfast a good many hours earlier. The rear of the monastery overlooking the Zanskar plain is exceptionally beautiful with rambling flowers, trees and prayer flags. We sat there for some time soaking in the silence of this remote land.
Zangla was the ancient capital of Zanskar and located north of Stongdey about thirty kilometres from Padum. As we drove up, the ruins of the Zangla fort came into view. We reached the fort and found the main door locked. While we waited, wondering what to do, a car drove up and an elderly gentleman and a plainsman alighted. Finding us standing there, the elderly gentleman enquired as to whether we wanted to go in. "The door is locked," I said pointing to the entrance. Mysteriously, he replied, "I have the key," and promptly opened the door. Later we discovered that we were with the King of Zangla, Gyialses Nima Norboo Namgyal and the fort's owner.
On the top floor of this crumbling palace, we saw the room of Csoma de Koros, a Hungarian scholar who had spent the winter of 1823 in harsh and bitter conditions carrying out research in Tibetan studies. From the window of his room looking northwest was a splendid view towards the pass of Parfi La and the high trail which eventually led to Lamayuru. The King stood in his soot-blackened prayer room, surrounded by the most fearful and benevolent Buddhist deities. With a shaking hand he tried to light a butter lamp before it was extinguished in the stiff breeze. The wind whistled through the small window while below him extended the vast plain of Zanskar, once his kingdom.
The next day we were to return to Kargil and then to Leh. Tenzing mentioned that we had not visited the Sani and Bardhan monasteries. "Another time, Tenzing," I said and it was a good excuse to return to the land of white copper.
Getting There
The district headquarters of Zanskar is Padum and this is a convenient base to explore the Zanskar valley. You can fly to either Srinagar or Leh and take a taxi or bus to Kargil. The drive to Kargil from Srinagar across Zoji La is around 7-8hrs in a taxi and from Leh around 8-9 hours. The taxi hired from Srinagar or Leh will not be allowed to ply beyond Kargil and you will have to hire a taxi from the Kargil Taxi Union for the Kargil-Padum stretch.
From Kargil, there are three options—a dedicated taxi, a shared taxi or a bus. A dedicated taxi will charge Rs 10,000-12,000 one way. You will need to bargain hard and a round trip back to Kargil might be cheaper. A shared taxi is usually a Tata Sumo with eight people and the cost is Rs 800-1,000 per seat (but which can go up depending on demand). Buses (Rs 400-500) leave Kargil at 4 am and take around 15 hours. It's a good idea to break the journey at Rangdum if you have your own taxi.
Getting Around
Unless you're okay with walking, taxis are the only means of transport around the valley. Distances are short, around 15-30km and it is possible to get a taxi for the day for around Rs 2,000-3,000 from the main market in Padum. It is possible to cover Karsha, Stongdey and Zangla in one day and do Bardhan the next morning.
Where to Stay
The best hotel in Padum is the Marq Guest House (Rs 1,500-2,000 Ph- 01983-245021, 9419219327) which has running hot water and plush rooms. We stayed at the Ibex Hotel (Rs 500-600; Ph-01983 245214) which is popular with trekkers and has rooms located around a sunny central courtyard. Hot water is available in buckets as required. The Mont Blanc Guest House (Rs 400-600; Ph-01983 245183) is another option.
Homestays - In case you wish to stay in the villages, there are homestays in Zanskar which can be booked at himalayan-homestays.com (or call 9419657213 or 9419815906). The cost is Rs 400-500 per person per night, including breakfast and dinner.
What To See & Do
There are some stunning monasteries in Zanskar-Karsha, Stongdey and Bardhan should definitely be on the list. The fort at Zangla is almost in ruins but plans are afoot to restore it and this warrants a visit. The Karsha Gustor festival featuring spectacular monastery dances is scheduled to be held on July 16 and 17 this year so a visit at that time will certainly be rewarding.