Raw, Wild Day In Lahaul’s Gushal Village, Where Glaciers Meet Apple Orchards

Gushal Village, Himachal Pradesh | A craving for a summer escape from the city life got me picking up the phone and dialing my friend living in the mountain town of Manali. “Me aa rahi hu ('I am coming')," I said. Wanting to escape the tourist crowd of Manali, we decided to beyond the Atul Tunnel into the higher mountains on Lahaul and explore the lesser-known villages.

Ishan Shashni, a friend and mountain soul from the land of Lahaul, was my buddy and guide for this trip. So when Shashni said, “I know a spot,” I followed.

Offbeat Escape Beyond Manali And Into the Heart of Lahaul

We drove past the crowds at Sissu waterfall and made our way to the Tandi campsite by the confluence of the Chandrabaga. We left our bags at the campsite, went off to a viewpoint to sit by some wildflowers, and watch the sunset. Enjoying the silence and taking in all that fresh mountain air, I lost myself in the landscape of a small village settled on the mountain opposite me. Turns out we were to revisit this same village the following day, as this is where Shashni's relatives had apple orchards. But more on that later.

That night, I ended that day with a glass of my favourite Ginger Lemon Honey, and a dinner of Lingdi (fiddlehead ferns) cooked in pure ghee with some hot and fresh rotis.

Glaciers, Orchards, and Village Trails: Exploring Gushal in Lahaul

I love exploring places without a plan, and leaving it all to the locals to suggest places to see and experiences to enjoy. The following morning was just that. We headed to the village of Gushal, a small hamlet overlooking the Tandi confluence. Little did I know I would walk through a village that I will keep talking about for a long time!

Shashni took me to an orchard where his cousin and aunt were busy sowing cabbage saplings. Their orchard also had apple trees, dressed impeccably in the most beautiful white blossoms I had ever seen. Walking through the apple orchard, I couldn't help but wonder what life would be like working in a land backdropped by views of majestic mountains.

Breaking my trance, my hosts asked whether I would like to see the back slopes of the village. "Yes!" I said without a thought.

Shashni and his cousin were now leading me on a walk through the village, showing off their apple blossoms before heading through a small forested patch that led us to a path where a glacier stretched down to the village’s backslopes.

I love the village, and unexpectedly witnessing a glacier just made my day. Turns out, at Gushal, bears roamed freely at night. But on our visit at day time, we sat under a tree watching a waterfall cascading down a rugged mountain. Listening to the lores of the village from those who spend their childhood there made for the perfect morning.

Looking at the waterfall from afar, I wondered what it would be like up-close. "Is there a way we can get closer?" I asked. Five minutes later, we were hiking to the top in search for the genesis of the ice-cold glacial waters.

On our return, we could have taken the same path. But, Shashni's cousin suggested taking a longer route that traversed the mountains through the glacier. We obliged.

The village exploration, which was supposed to be a visit to the orchard and walk around the homes, turned into a day-long hike. But I'm not complaining; nothing could beat this mountain bliss.

We hiked through patches of wildflowers and succulents as the sun soared high in the sky and the nearby glacier kept the air chill. Traversing narrow paths, I wondered if we could have faced a bear if we walked the same path post dusk. We took short breaks to soak in the views and hear all about life in the village—from how glaciers once covered the very land where farms now thrive, and how they’ve steadily receded over the years due to climate change; to the story of a bear that tore through a bike seat and destroyed an entire farm overnight.

Post-hike, we walked back through the fields. It was now almost mid-afternoon, and the locals in the fields were taking a break from all the labour done. They saw me with surprise, wondering who this city girl was, wandering through their fields. But there’s something about the hospitality that mountain folks have that makes it feel like home. As Shashni and his cousin caught up with someone they knew, I was poured a drink in a bowl. It looked like a thinner version of lassi. So refreshing—I forgot to ask what I was drinking!

We walked on. I filled my empty bottle from a water outlet sourced from the glacier and said goodbye to the village of Gushal.

These are the experiences I live for—experiences that make me feel alive. No planned travel itinerary could have brought me to a village orchard with that view, or to an isolated waterfall beside a glacier.

To more unplanned travels and exploring unknown mountain towns!