Sands Of Time: A Solo Girl's Adventure Through Egypt

For many years, I associated Egypt with the Great Pyramid of Giza. But as I read more about the country, I got drawn to the saltwater lakes of Siwa, viewing Luxor from a hot-air balloon, and diving with dugongs along the Red Sea coast. And so, my solo trip to Egypt revolved around these experiences. I began with Siwa.

Tucked away in the western end of Egypt, along the border with Libya, Siwa's main draw is its crystal-clear, emerald-green saltwater lakes, where the high salinity (almost 95 per cent) makes it impossible for one to sink.

Siwa came as a promised land, offering a chance to disconnect from the world and reconnect with myself. I stayed at Talist Siwa, a completely off-the-grid property built over a decade by architect Nabila Aziz and her family. Talist is a self-sustaining home with a private natural pool. It's surrounded by the Dakrour mountain range and has incredible views of the Siwa Lake.

Hosts Ihab and Lydia took me to a hot water spring and offered me a hydrotherapy session. They also invited me to a community iftar meal, where I tasted bazin (a bread-like Libyan dish prepared using barley flour) and kishk (a traditional yoghurt-based Lebanese soup).

From Siwa, I made my way to Luxor. Home to over 100 tombs and one-third of the world's ancient monuments, Luxor is a portal to a bygone era. I chanced upon Bab Al Samawy, meaning "doorway to heaven," a boutique stay located right next to the take-off ground for the hot-air balloon.

On my first morning in Luxor, I was up at the crack of dawn, ready to drift up and away to witness the golden light bathing the sandstone settlements of Luxor's West Bank and its four valleys—the Valley of the Kings, Valley of the Queens, Valley of the Nobles, and Valley of the Artisans. Among them, the UNESCO-recognised Valley of the Kings is best known for its rock-cut tombs of Pharaohs—including Tutankhamun and Ramses II—depicting vibrant hieroglyphs and Greek and Coptic graffiti. Equally fascinating is the Temple of Hatshepsut, the second female ruler and the longest-ruling woman in the country's history.

I dedicated my second day to the East Bank, primarily the Karnak Temple. Built over centuries, it is one of the world's largest open-air museums and the second-largest temple system. The sheer scale of the temple complex, comprising massive gateways or pylons and a hypostyle hall, is awe-inspiring. I spent hours watching the sun filter through and illuminate the vibrant hieroglyphs documenting centuries of history.

Next on my bucket list was the gateway to Nubia—the seat of one of the earliest civilisations of ancient Egypt, dating to 2500 BCE. To experience the Nubian culture up close, I skipped downtown Aswan for a stay at the locally-run Heissa Artie Nubian Guest House on Philae Island, located near the First Cataract on the Nile.

Staying on the island allowed me to take several rides on the felucca, a traditional wooden sailing boat with a single sail. In between those rides I found time to walk around the bustling Sharia el Souk, take in the spectacular views of the Nile, explore the Philae Temple, and watch Agatha Christie's "Death on the Nile" come to life at the Old Cataract Hotel where it was written.

For the final leg of my journey, I left behind mainland Egypt for another adventure in the small town of Dahab, located on the Sinai Peninsula.

A harbour along the Gulf of Aqaba, the coast of Dahab is where you get the unique opportunity to spot highly endangered dugongs and the most beautiful coral reefs. Dahab is considered a diver's dream. I hopped onto a boat that took me to El Bells, a crack in the reef table with a nearly 30m vertical drop. From the reef, I drift-dived to the Blue Hole, a coral-fringed submarine sinkhole known to be one of the world's most tricky diving sites.

After that breathtaking rush of adrenaline, I cooled off by roaming the town's quaint lanes, shopping for intricate beadwork by Bedouin women, and watching the sunset over the Red Sea. A travelogue on Egypt is incomplete without a mention of its pulsating, cosmopolitan capital city, Cairo.

While most travellers head to Giza and call it a day, Cairo's food and art scene is worth exploring. Zamalek, a small island within the metropolis is home to over 40 public and private art galleries featuring modern and contemporary Egyptian art.

Try the local delicacies like taameya and karkade at Zooba, ful medames at Tabali, koshary at Abou Tarek, molokhiya at Fasahet Somaya, and basbousa at Simond's.

The city hides truly unique experiences in plain sight.

Know Before You Go

Visa: Egypt offers a single-entry e-visa costing INR 2,700. Additionally, they require a letter of authorisation from a local travel agency.

Currency: Egyptian Pound

Exchange rate: INR 1 = EGP 0.57

Getting There: You can fly directly to Cairo from Delhi and Mumbai. A round-trip costs approximately INR 40,000.

Getting Around Egypt: Travel by train to explore the Nile Valley. Take a dahabiya cruise between Esna and Aswan. Book early with Nile Dahabiya or Nour El Nil. Taxi or hotel-hired drivers can take you on day trips. Uber is also available.

Food: A meal at a mid-range restaurant with a beverage, a starter, and a main course costs INR 700 per person. Street foods are as cheap INR 20.

Accommodation: Egypt offers accommodations for all budgets and great value for money for hotels on the higher end. A decent double room usually costs around INR 4,000.

Pro Tip: Download Google Translate on your phone as most people speak Arabic. Cover your shoulders and knees, especially outside major cities and beach towns. Don't hesitate to ask questions to the locals—they are happy to help.