It was a balmy Thursday afternoon. The sun washed the whole city in its golden light. I was just one of the many thousands pressed against each other, trying to take a decent picture of the Parthenon that stood gloriously on a hilltop like a gem on a crown. A few steps away, I saw a father whispering something to his daughter and her eyes turning wide with wonder every passing second. I assumed he was telling her one of the great Greek tales. Maybe the one about the battle between Athena and Poseidon over who gets to claim the city of Athens or the melodic tragedy of Orpheus and Eurydice.
I saw her take it all in with rapt attention. Her animated expression took me back to the time I first discovered the Greek mythological world through Percy Jackson books as a child. At that minute, as I returned to have one last look at the Parthenon, I felt that same rush of childlike excitement and curiosity to discover a city so ancient yet new.
Luckily, that feeling didn’t wear off as I made my way out of the ancient structure—the pièce de résistance of a trip to Athens. What more was there to see? I wondered.
Whenever I have spoken to anybody who has visited Greece, Athens barely takes up a minute of the conversation that eventually concludes with mentions of Mykonos and Santorini. Most often reduced to a transit point, the city remains unexplored beyond the Parthenon.
However, with almost four and a half days left, I was intrigued to discover more. It was, after all, one of the oldest cities in the world, where democracy was born, and great philosophers like Socrates and Plato gave the world their ideas.
While the Acropolis is considered to be the ultimate historical attraction in the city, walking around the city centre reveals that it is certainly not the only one. At first glance, the central part of Athens looks no different from other cities, with high-end boutique stores, packed restaurants, clubs, and designer shops lining the streets. But this rich network of different neighbourhoods—each with a distinct character—boasts an equally fascinating collection of historical monuments that often don’t find place in a traveller’s itinerary.
At Monastiraki Square, where the flea market draws all the attention, the Ottoman-era Tzistarakis Mosque stands silently, dominating the centre. Built in 1759 and named after the Ottoman governor, Mustafa Aga Tzistarakis, it is one of the few key monuments in the city from the period of Ottoman rule between 1458 and 1821. Overseen by the Museum of Greek Folk Art, the mosque now functions as an exhibition space from time to time. A few steps away, Roman-era remains flank the cobblestone paths that run uphill. First to fall on the way is the remains of the Hadrian Library, built in 132 AD. Considered to be the largest structure constructed by the Roman emperor, Hadrian, the structure once boasted a hundred columns made of Phrygian marble. Now, only a few have withstood the centuries that have passed by in between. Right next to it, the Roman Agora—the construction of which was funded by Julius Caesar and Augustus—stands in all its grandeur. The site is also home to the octagonal Tower of the Winds—an enduring emblem of the scientific ingenuity of ancient times. Built between 100 and 50 BC by Andronicus of Cyrrhus to measure time, the marble structure—with eight sides pointing towards eight directions—is considered the world’s oldest meteorological station.
Built in the 5th century, the Temple of Poseidon is a classic example of how the Greeks built a temple in a location related to the deity
Nearby, Athens’ oldest neighbourhood, Plaka, thrums with music and chatter flowing out of the many tavernas and cafès tucked away in the labyrinthine lanes. Built on the slopes of the Acropolis and above the residential areas of ancient Athens, this “Neighbourhood of the Gods” is dotted with many interesting finds. While the most prominent are the 17th-century Fethiye Mosque and the 11th-century Orthodox churches like the Saint Nikolas Ragava, a unique one is Athens’ oldest surviving house, Benizelos Mansion. Distinct from all the pastel-coloured and bougainvillea-framed neoclassical-style houses abundant in Plaka, this 18th-century house features characteristics typical of Byzantine and post-Byzantine design.
While the historical heart of Athens deserves undivided attention, more is hidden around its fringes, which runs along the coastline of the Saronic Gulf and forms the Athenian Riviera. Beginning at the end of a comfortable 40-minute drive from the city centre, the landscape seamlessly transitions to that of an island. Narrow streets open up to wide roads running along the turquoise waters, and graffiti-covered walls give way to palm-fringed sidewalks. At a distance, pine-covered slopes form a scallop-like design on the horizon. Home to some of the most expensive real estate in the Balkan, the Riviera, despite its muted first impressions, puts on quite a show with its impressive line-up of seafront restaurants, beach bars, and members-only beach clubs. However, the true gem is the expansive Vouliagmeni Lake, or the “Sunken Lake,” which is also mentioned in Greek mythology. Believed to have been formed 2,000 years ago as a result of a large cavern collapsing following an earthquake, the lake’s emerald waters have a unique property. Be it winter or summer, the water’s temperature does not dip below 18 degrees Celcius as it is fed by warm seawater via underground channels.
Because of its temperate waters and rich hydrogen sulphide content, the lake has functioned as a natural spa since the 19th century. The lakeside is decked up with enough pool beds and cabanas, where you can spend the whole day sunbathing to a gorgeous view. Nearby, the famous Astir Beach is a wonderful spot to unwind.
Add one hour more from Vouliagmeni, and the coastline surprises those who seek mythology with another gem that claims a few legends of its own—Cape Sounion. It was here that Aegeus, the king of Athens, upon seeing a black sail on his ship, assumed his son Theseus’ death and jumped into the ocean, tragically taking his life. It is said that this is how the Aegean Sea got its name.
Having grown up reading the Percy Jackson series, I was more than excited to spot the imposing Temple of Poseidon, pitched right on the edge of a cliff and set against the stark blue of the sea and sky—a fitting ode to the “master of the sea.” Built in the 5th century, the Temple of Poseidon is a classic example of how the Greeks built a temple in a location related to the deity. However, there’s a practical reason, too—Sounion is believed to have also offered clear visibility of the ships returning to or leaving Piraeus, the ancient port city of Athens. This made Sounion the hub of mercantile activity.
There's a fascinating feature hidden in the tall marble columns that once marked the entrance to Athens’ harbour. Among the many Greek inscriptions on them, one written in English— “Byron,” left behind by the great romantic poet Lord Byron, stands out. It is believed that he visited Cape Sounion twice during his time in Athens around 1810-11. Visible only when you venture up-close, it is such beauty and surprises that the mainland hides, revealing them only to those who willing to give it time, look closer, and go deeper.
THE DOLLI, ATHENS
Set in a mansion built in 1925, the boutique-maison hotel does not take away from your experience of the ancient city. It does add a whole lot of character through the carefully curated collection of eclectic decor accents and art. There’s also enough room for classics, with ancient Greek ceramics on display and original stucco ceilings preserved to reflect the mansion’s legacy. This unique style has been carried forward into the 46 rooms, but the real star is the rooftop restaurant and swimming pool that overlooks an unobstructed panoramic view of the city crowned by the Parthenon.
GRECOTEL CAPE SOUNIO
While the Temple of Poseidon can be seen up close after a steep hike, the view from Grecotel Cape Sounio is picture-perfect. Built right by the sea, directly facing the Temple and surrounded by towering pine trees, the resort, even with 139 villas, feels like an oasis. Each villa has an open living space, a walk-in closet, and a plunge pool shaded by a canopy of olive branches. The stunning view of the Temple always keeps you company, especially when dining in one of the six restaurants and bars. The resort provides access to two private beaches via an underground tunnel.
THE ROC CLUB, VOULIAGMENI
The Roc Club is a swanky hotel with 34 suites overlooking the Saronic Gulf. It is at walking distance from the town’s most happening spots, but there’s enough within the lavish property to enjoy—from the inviting turquoise waters of the rooftop pool to the all-white interiors of the suites. There are other nooks to unwind in, such as the vibrant lounge and the airy verandah.