Living La Vida Octola

"Oh look, there’s a reindeer."

I have just entered the expansive grounds of Octola Private Wilderness, and camouflaged beautifully against the landscape is a reindeer—white and brown, with soaring antlers. And right behind it, a calf, bounding on short legs and a fluffy bobtail.

It isn’t Christmas yet, but I believe I have made Santa's (or at least the reindeer's) "nice list."

What else can explain my vacation in a carbon-negative, ultra luxury property, where the air is so clean it is adding hours to my lifespan, where autumnal colours paint a postcard outside my window daily, and where reindeer roam freely?

A Secret Estate

Octola Private Wilderness is a wilderness retreat in Rovaniemi. It opened in 2018 and is part of Luxury Action, a private travel company curating luxury experiences across the Nordics and the European Arctic.

On a recent autumn trip to Lapland, I found myself exploring why this secret destination has attracted HNI and celebrities, including royalty, from across the world.

Octola’s greatest virtue is privacy—its exact location is a secret, and guests are sworn to it. Being surrounded by acres of private forest really does help with the seclusion.

My destination is Octola 1, which is situated on 300 hectares of private forest land, and contains a main lodge, a villa, an igloo suite, a spa and fitness centre, and a BBQ bar. I am in the villa, a two-bedroom space with a private sauna, hot tub, butler, chef and wilderness guide.

A Touch Of Nature

Rovaniemi is best known for being the home of Santa Claus. It is also the capital of Lapland and the largest city (area-wise) in Europe, though much of it is covered in forests.

It is why, on entering Octola, I am not surprised to see acres upon acres of forest land. It’s a breathtaking view, an expanse of birch and pine trees, plush in their autumn colours of golden yellow, rust reds and soft browns, leading down to a winding river.

Besides the reindeer, I spot a rabbit as big as a hare, also camouflaged against the foliage. The ground beneath my feet is an array of colours and plush like a carpet. All around me are mushrooms, and bright red and blue berries.

Early on, I am told that the company philosophy is to employ local people and use local produce as much as possible.

Nature is integral to every aspect of life at Octola. Every lodging has a dead pine tree placed right at the entrance. Dead wood or kelo is much revered in Finland—the tree remains standing for years after its "death" and is a crucial component of the forest ecosystem.

The stones in the sauna and those that make up the fireplace in my living room are sourced from the property. "The forest is our supermarket" is an oft-heard statement, and all my meals prove this point. The berries foraged outside make their way into jams, jus or sorbets. My breakfasts are a spread including pickled herring in mustard, Karelian pasty, rye bread, and local coffee. Reindeer meat is part of my meals too—in the form of tartare, chips and roasted and served with potatoes.

Animal Kingdom

The reindeer are important to the Sámi and Lappish people. A fun fact people love telling me is that there are more reindeer than humans in Lapland. The semi-wild animals—all reindeer are owned by someone—offer everything needed to survive the harsh Arctic conditions. Food, clothing, transport, tools, everything.

My visit to Irene and Ari Kangasniemi’s home shows me how reindeer—in the form of their antlers, bone and skin—are used in crafts too. Irene makes jewellery, cutlery, cups from antler and reindeer bone, and bags from seal leather. Ari is known for his decorative antler chandeliers—some of which I have seen adorn the rooms in other hotels in Lapland. On their invitation, I explore the beautiful house they built themselves, taste some freshly made berry juice, and admire their hand-drawn paintings and handmade leather shoes. Their home is a great example of living with and using the bounties of nature while also deeply respecting it.

Another animal that is slowly becoming a part of tourism in the region is the husky. The dog breed is not native to Lapland and, in fact, was brought here mainly for winter tourism purposes like dog sledging. On a bright, cold morning, I make my way to Bearhill, a nearby husky kennel. I am greeted with the sound of barking. Inside is a hubbub of activity—some dogs are being taken for training, some are learning to work together, some are in the activity pen.

Meanwhile, in the puppy corner, I met the future generation—they bite and nibble my gloved fingers, run and pull out grass, pounce on their trainer, and generally create absolute mayhem for a few minutes before they’re brought to heel. I pick up one, nuzzle my face in his fur and breathe deeply.

Life is good.

An Evening Of Joik

The Sámi are descendants of nomadic people who roamed parts of Finland, Norway, Sweden and Russia. They are the only officially recognised indigenous group in the European Union.

The SIIDA museum in Inari is a good introduction to their lives, cultures and deep reverence for seasons. Octola goes a step ahead and gives me a firsthand look. On a gorgeous, cold evening, as the sun paints the sky beyond the French windows in the villa, I meet Henry Valle, the CEO of Luxury Action. Valle is Sámi and was born into a reindeer herding and fishing family in Utsjoki (the northernmost region of Finland). He comes dressed in his traditional Sámi clothing, wearing the Four Winds Hat, and carrying a drum decorated with symbols.

An important aspect of Sámi culture is the joik, a vocal art. “Joik comes from reindeer herding. When they were living nomadic lives, the reindeer would be kept outside, and the herders would make noises to keep the animals calm and to keep predators away from the reindeer. It slowly started to become a way of transferring information to people,” says Valle.

Much of the joik would be stories about nature and creation. Inspired by the view, Valle launches into a short joik performance. Eyes closed, hands beating rhythmic accompaniment on a drum, his voice fills up the room, the quiet of the space adding healing energy.

Octola’s biggest gift to me is privacy and clean air. The French windows in the villa are my entertainment, as the scenery outside changes constantly. It is where I sit and watch the magic of the Aurora Borealis, hues of green dancing across a clear sky. The next morning, I wake up to find the surroundings blanketed in mist, making for a surreal landscape that would’ve sent a Renaissance painter into raptures.

It is the perfect Lappish goodbye.

The Information

Getting there: Finnair operates direct flights from Delhi to Helsinki, followed by a one-hour flight to Rovaniemi, in Finnish Lapland

Visa requirements: A Schengen visa is required

Best time to visit: While winter often gets all the attention, autumn is my favourite season. The air is cold and crisp, the leaves turn vibrant shades of colour, and clear nights improve your chances of witnessing the Northern Lights

Travel tips: Octola provides protective outdoor gear for its 80-plus activities, so you need not pack equipment for every adventure