Beyond The Beaches In Fiji

Fiji has earned a reputation as an island paradise. Think sandy beaches, turquoise waters and the most luxurious private island resorts. The country's reputation for pristine water is so strong that its name graces the bottled water label. But I am not a water baby. Put me in a pool, and I drag myself through the water like an injured moth. So when an invite for a trip to Fiji landed in my inbox, I was naturally sceptical. Will Fiji still be a good idea if beaches and waves don't speak to me? Happy to report that you can look beyond the beaches in this South Pacific island nation. Here are my top picks to enjoy this land of happiness sans the beaches. 

Day 1: Denarau

The first thing I hear on landing at the Nadi International Airport in Fiji is "Bula"—the  Fijian "hello," followed by an endearing "welcome home." After the long-haul flight from India with a brief stopover in Singapore, I am thankful to have only had to travel a short distance to my home in Fiji—Sofitel Fiji Resort and Spa in Denarau. A stay on Denarau Island is a great way to ease into your Fiji vacation. The bustling marina is a hub for excursions, day trips, small ship cruises and resort connections to other islands.

On day one, I take it easy and surrender myself to luxurious pampering at the spa, followed by dinner at the adults-only Waitui Beach Club on the edge of the resort. This is where I got my first taste of kokoda. This traditional dish of raw fish cured with lemon juice and doused with coconut milk, roughly chopped onions, and chilli is the Fijian version of the Peruvian ceviche. It's served in a half coconut shell, clamshell, or scooped into fresh green lettuce leaf cups.

Day 2: Garden Of The Sleeping Giant 

Snuggled in the lush foothills of their namesake mountain peak, the Garden of the Sleeping Giant is a rewarding day trip—especially if you're a green thumb. Once the private collection of the late actor Raymond Burr of Perry Mason fame, these gorgeous gardens spotlight more than 2,000 species of orchids, trickling fountains, as well as a tranquil lily pond. After wandering through the gardens and the native forest on foot, I naturally veer towards one of the hammocks for a leisurely swing while listening to the whisper of the forest. Whether you are into gardens or not, the Garden of the Sleeping Giant will take your breath away.

Note: Tours are included in the entrance fee.

Day 3: Cloud 9

After two days of resting and roaming the gardens of Fiji, it was time to experience a different side of the island. So I head to Could 9. A 45-minute boat ride from Port Denarau gets me to a floating deck in the middle of the South Pacific Ocean, surrounded by crystal clear waters and a beautiful reef. Sprawled over two stories, this is Fiji's party pontoon with a nightclub meets island bar feel. You can luxuriate on a daybed, soaking in those 360-degree views while sipping on a delicious cocktail and munching on wood-fired pizzas, leaping into the turquoise water from the second storey. Or better still, borrow snorkel gear to see the tropical fish and coral reefs and meet with turtles. Easy to guess what I chose! Cloud 9 is surrounded by the bluest water I have ever seen. No wonder it's a magnet for photo seekers.  

Tip: Rush to stake your claim on a day bed as soon as you arrive. Bring a Dramamine if you're prone to motion sickness.

Day 4: Sigatoka River Safari And Kava Ceremony

The awe-inspiring Sigatoka River is the longest river in Fiji and an essential source of life and livelihood. A river safari is a great way to experience the river and the villages on its banks. As we raced down the river in a jet boat, our guide and captain, Freddy, filled us up on Fiji's history, its rugby pride and its dark days of cannibalism. A beautiful pastoral scene unfolded along the riverbank—goats perched on jagged rocks and a man walking his horse through the river to the other side. After an adrenaline-filled journey down the river, we ended up in a tiny village called Toga for a traditional kava ceremony.

Resembling a milky tea, kava is made by mixing crushed roots of the kava plant with water in a large wooden bowl. Kava isn't just a drink; it's a social lubricant, a tradition and the secret weapon for community bonding. One bilo (a fancy word for a coconut shell bowl) of kava might loosen you up. Two bilos and your lips will feel like they're vibrating silently. But power through to three or four bilos, and congratulations! You've officially arrived in Fiji, where worries melt faster than ice cream on a hot day.

I end the day with a visit to Sigatoka market, where Fijian staples like rourou (taro leaves), spicy bongo chillies, and bunches of tiny green grapes called sea grapes (a type of seaweed) spring to life. The ultimate treat, however, is chilled pineapple swirls served on a stick like a popsicle.

Day 5: River Tubing

I spent my last day in Fiji lazily floating on the Navua River on an inflatable tube. River tubing takes you past beautiful rainforests, cascading waterfalls and picturesque scenery. It's one of the most relaxing activities on the island. Parts of the film "Anaconda" were filmed on the Navua River. Floating aimlessly past a lush forest with my toes in the water and birds soaring over me, I could listen to what can be described as the water's heartbeat. Or maybe it was my own, amplified by the silence. Along with moments of calm, there was excitement from the rapids, impromptu singing, mystical rainbows, and a lot of magic.

The Information

Getting there: There are no direct flights to Fiji. Cathay Pacific, Singapore Airlines, Air India and Fiji Airways fly to Fiji with layovers in Singapore, Sydney, Beijing and Hong Kong.

Visa formalities: Free visa on arrival for Indians.

Best time to visit: There's no bad time to visit Fiji. The best weather is from October to March, which are cooler months in Fiji.

Things to bring: Reef-safe sunscreen, a beach hat and a sarong for village visits.

Getting around: Taxis and private cars are available on the main islands. Those staying on Denarau Island can use the open-air Bula Bus to get to Port Denarau for day trips leaving from the marina. The bus stops at all the resorts on the way to the port. If you don't mind the crowd, public transport buses are inexpensive and run regularly.

Some Fijian phrases to know before you go: Bula (boo-la): friendly greeting; Vinaka (vee-naka): thank you; Moce (mothay): good-bye