Auckland, Off Script

I stood at Level 60 of the Sky Tower in New Zealand’s largest city, Auckland. It felt as if the Fauves had been given the task of painting the sky that day. Henri Matisse probably added a few strokes of his favourite red, while André Derain’s cobalt blue, green, and yellow also found their way in. The sky met the sea, and in the distance stood Mount Eden, a dormant volcanic cone that is also the city's highest natural point.

As the sun took its time to set, I was struck by a sense of déjà vu. The view reminded me of a photograph by Laurence Aberhart that I had seen at the Auckland Art Gallery the afternoon before. The photograph, taken at the mouth of the Whanganui River, which is regarded as a living being in New Zealand, depicted a similar merger of sky and sea.

As I walked to the other end, my view shifted. Buildings became the size of matchboxes, and headlights on the Auckland Harbour Bridge flickered like fireflies.

At 220 m above street level, I had a bird's-eye view of both sides of Auckland—one defined by speed, and the other by quietude.

Time Neither A Construct Nor A Constraint

The Queen’s Arcade, a street between the Civic Theatre and the Viaduct Harbour, is one of Auckland’s most active streets. Home to brand outlets, corporate offices, and a busy bus stop, I didn’t think anyone passing by had the time to spare for a conversation with me. Until a 70-year-old diva, dressed like Meryl Streep from "The Devil Wears Prada," flashed me a smile, pulled down her chic glasses, and said, “You are wearing a rather lovely scarf.” We both stood in front of the Dior store for the next 20 minutes talking about her favourite coffee shop in town and her travels across 14 Indian states. She opened up to me, unlike I ever would to a stranger, and that was refreshing.

Aucklanders are masters of the art of slowing down; time is neither a construct nor a constraint for them.

This belief was solidified when I travelled to Velskov, a four-hectare regenerative forest farm in the Waitākere Ranges, not more than 30 minutes from the heart of the city, with six other journalists, still strangers, at the start of our press trip.

We were plucked away from the city’s noise and planted in a house party to “eat the forest in the forest,” as Mamakan, the curator and creator of the space, defined it.

A fire was lit, a stove set, foraged mushrooms sautéed and arranged around a large block of blue cheese, with kiwis, corn, and tamarillos sizzling in a pan. We stood around it, taking turns at the pan, our fingers burning as we tossed the veggies. The forest farm is home to over 50 endemic species of fruits, edible flowers, and vegetables.

We were midway through the feast when Mamakan indicated a surprise forest walk.

With a stick in hand, no sports shoes on my feet, and a chatty pīwakawaka (New Zealand fantail) by my side, I got going. After nearly slipping a dozen times, I reached the thickest stretch of the forest that resembled one of Gustav Klimt’s paintings. Mamakan asked me to stop. “Make no noise and listen.” It seemed like the fantail also followed her instructions. She chirped no more.

There was silence broken only by the soft rustling of the leaves and the gurgling of the narrow stream. I looked up at the foliage and took a deep breath.

Without even trying, I had allowed myself to slow down.

Pace It Up In Auckland

One of the best parts of the Radisson RED Auckland on Lorne Street, where I was staying for my brief trip to Auckland, is its location. Just across the road from Albert Park, surrounded by a fleet of Pan-Asian eateries, and with a stunning view of the Sky Tower, the hotel that opened its doors in February 2026, promises to become one of Auckland’s most coveted addresses.

At night, two ginger beers down, I found myself belting out "Dancing Queen" by ABBA with a group of boys and girls from the University of Auckland. We were at Holey Moley by the Viaduct Harbour, one of Auckland's many karaoke bars located close to the hotel.

The Coin Singing Booth (CSB) on Chancery Street was a three-minute walk away. I paid NZD 20 for 11 songs, entered my neon-pink, dimly-lit private booth, and sang through the evening with Miles David, George Michael, and Miley Cyrus.

While Radisson RED’s menu doesn’t feature too many options for vegetarians, the mushroom fettuccine, cauliflower bao, and gyoza at their newly-opened rooftop restaurant, Aka Rooftop, were pretty good.

If you want to try F&B options outside what the hotel has to offer, glide down the hotel’s elevator to find restaurants like Taier Sichuan Cuisine, Saigon Chill, Ningji Lemon and Boba Tea, and Uncle Man’s, within walking distance. Right opposite Uncle Man’s, which serves the most delicious Malaysian fare in Auckland, is a shop with a board that announces, “The best hot chocolate in Auckland is only NZD 10.”

The strong claim and the nip in the air tempted me to try it. I am not entirely sure it is the best hot chocolate in Auckland, but it was among the most decadent I had ever tried.

A Trip To Hobbiton

Another defining sip on my Auckland trip was the Stout. Brewed at and served from the barrels of The Green Dragon Inn at The Hobbiton movie set, the dark ale was strong enough to put hair on someone’s chest!

A trip to New Zealand, as many say, is incomplete without a visit to Peter Jackson’s work-of-art movie set where The Hobbit trilogy (a prequel to “The Lord of the Rings”) was shot. A little over two hours away from the Auckland city centre, I boarded a 6 am shuttle with nine strangers. The route was exciting, all credit to Simon, a stand-up comedian and our driver for the day. He cracked jokes and regaled us with trivia.

“Welcome to the Hobbiton Movie Set,” read a board.

From entering hobbit holes and spotting the bench where Bilbo Baggins sat with his cigar just before meeting Gandalf, to standing under the tree where he hosted his farewell party, the world of hobbits was beautiful and fascinating.

Don’t forget to visit the gift shop outside the movie set. The most exciting discovery was Bilbo’s One Ring. The price, however, didn't convince me, as it didn't promise to make me a Hobbit or invisible.

But that didn’t stop me from channelling the Jackson fan in me. For a moment, I became Bilbo with my guide, Lara, as the cinematographer. I ran across the route shouting, “I am going on an adventure,” and I stood under the tree reading out his much-dreaded farewell speech, “This is the END! I am going. I am leaving NOW! GOODBYE!"

The Information

How to reach

Various airlines, including Singapore Airlines, Cathay Pacific, Emirates, and Malaysia Airlines, offer connecting flights from Delhi's Indira Gandhi International Airport to Auckland Airport. The journey takes between 16 and 20 hours.

Best time to visit

December to April

Visa requirements

Submit an online application via immigration.govt.nz and pay the required fee of NZD 350 (INR 20,000).

Where to stay

Radisson RED Auckland is within walking distance of Viaduct Harbour, Albert Park, and Sky Tower. The hotel offers 322 rooms across eight categories, with tariffs ranging from INR 7,500 to INR 18,500. Visit radissonhotels.com for bookings.

Tips

• Pack for both summer and winter, as the chances of experiencing all seasons in a single day are high.

• While distances aren't long, you can replace walking with Lime bicycles.

• If you are dining out, plan your meal before 9 pm.