The Paw-Wheel Drive Adventures: On To Khardungla Pass

Niharika Singh Dalal, a PADI-certified rescue diver and an off-road enthusiast, embarked on a remarkable journey from Gurgaon to Leh to participate in the Ladakh Marathon. Arriving days in advance to acclimatise to the altitude, she was determined to bring along her loyal Golden Retriever, Theia Singh Thomas. Dalal and Theia hope to make this trip a yearly pilgrimage. In the first part of her travelogue, she described the journey to Leh. In the second part, the adventure continues after their arrival. The adventure continues in this third part.

Our friend Sharan was visiting Ladakh for the first time, and I took it as my responsibility to be his tour guide. Khardung La Pass was at the top of his list of sights to see in and around Leh. After a hearty breakfast, Theia (my golden retriever), Sharan, and I got into our truck and drove to the pass.

It was a bright morning, and Google planned our route to Khardungla Pass via the Shanti Stupa and the Scenic Village Road.

Khardung La sits at a height of 5,359 metres (17,582 feet). The pass is located in the Ladakh Range, north of Leh, and connects the Indus and Shyok rivers. It also serves as the entry to the Nubra Valley, which leads to the Siachen Glacier. A road capable of accommodating automobiles was built through the pass in 1976 and opened to public motor vehicles in 1988. Now, decades later, I get to drive my friend to the pass.

Of Winding Roads And Falling Temperatures

As we climbed up the twisting, damaged roads, with construction and repair work in progress, we noticed how rapidly the temperature dropped. Pullu checkpoint confirmed that there was some snowfall expected at the pass. I was also aware of the truck traffic that occasionally clogs the roads going to the pass, which, along with driving in the snow without backup, is something out of a nightmare.

Within a minute, I noticed the temperature indicator moving from 2 degrees to -2 degrees. From dusty brown roads, the entire area transformed into a scene from a white Christmas story. Big snowflakes falling all around us, a flurry baby in a bright yellow jacket, and an excellent chat with a friend while we drove slowly towards the pass.

I told Sharan about how, many years ago, I saw two firangs (foreigners) go sploot and then flat as a chapati on Khardungla Pass because, instead of preserving their breath, they began dancing to Durga Ma's bhajans played by army personnel. Fortunately, nothing happened to them. Even today, whenever I hear Durga Ma's bhajans, I can't help but think of those two ladies dancing.

Reaching The Summit, Or Not

Mountains either call you to the summit or they don't, and Khardung La wasn't in the mood to let us climb on top of her this time. The temperature dropped to -3 degrees, and we ended up stuck in a snowstorm 1 km from the summit. We were sandwiched between three enormous trucks and the steep road's edge. I had never been stranded in a snowstorm without backup before. This was scary. The windscreen was getting iced out. In addition, the Ghosts of Ghata Loops story began to replay in my mind.

It seemed to me that we needed to go back as quickly as we could, and we did. By the time we reached Pullu, the pass had been closed.

However, we did pause in the middle to witness her highness Theia jump, dance, and pee in the snow. Given how much fun Theia and Sharan had, I won't call this a failed trip. Perhaps the pass will summon all of us again at another time.

Until then, we thank Khardung La for allowing us to return to Leh safely.