The Divar Diaries: Writing, Feni, And Friendship In Goa’s Hidden Island

Mandar Naik checked my address and nodded. I nodded back. With an agreement sealed in gestures, I got into his taxi. As we drove along the road skirting the Mandovi River towards the Ribandar Ferry dock, a strange excitement began to bubble within me. Perhaps it was the scent of freshly prepared Goan fish curry drifting through the air. Or perhaps it was the realisation that I was finally on my way to something I had long dreamed of—a Bound Writers’ Retreat.

Until that moment, excitement had been missing. At Dabolim Airport earlier, I’d felt more anxious than elated. When I saw the ‘Anything to Declare’ sign, I wanted to say, “Yes—ten kilos of excess mental baggage.” Sharing one’s writing with strangers feels like baring one’s heart, and I wasn’t sure I was ready for that.

Arriving in Divar: Goa's Island of Stillness

The ferry glided smoothly across the Mandovi, carrying us towards Divar Island, one of Goa’s most tranquil hideaways. As we crossed, I felt the cobwebs of city life being swept away by the river’s swift current.

Our taxi pulled up before Island House, the retreat’s venue. A fine specimen of Indo-Portuguese architecture, it looked as though it had stepped straight out of a Merchant-Ivory film—grand, weathered, elegant. With its spiral staircase and warm verandahs, it exuded character, mystery and comfort—like an old matriarch full of stories.

Soon, more taxis arrived, bringing fellow writers—some smiling shyly, others clutching notebooks as if they were life rafts. Within an hour, hesitance gave way to laughter, and the shared love of words dissolved all awkwardness.

The Writing Begins

From the very first session, the retreat unfolded with warmth and purpose. Under the mentorship of Chandrahas Choudhury, Tashan Mehta, Tara Khandelwal, and Aishwarya Jagalvekar, the atmosphere crackled with creative energy.

We gathered around a long verandah table, devouring Goan delicacies while birds sang full-throated versions of Maria Pitache. Between mouthfuls of xacuti and laughter, we debated character arcs, narrative tension, and finding one’s authentic voice. Questions flowed thick and fast, and soon everyone found their rhythm—tucked into quiet corners with a laptop or scribbling away in notebooks.

That was only day one. The tempo held steady for the next four.

Mornings on the Island

Each morning began at dawn. On my first walk, I was joined by three sleepy dogs I promptly named Gabriel, Garcia and Marquez. We strolled through lanes shaded by wide-branched trees, paddy fields glistening on one side and the Mandovi shimmering on the other.

By the third day, only Gabriel remained. I renamed him Samwise Gamgee—loyal, cheerful, and ever by my side.

Days were filled with sessions on world-building, publishing, and peer feedback. We exchanged reading lists, discussed old favourites, and debated new voices. By the retreat’s end, I’d found clarity on a story I’d been struggling with for months.

Fontainhas and Other Adventures

One morning, before the Goan sun grew fierce, we headed to Fontainhas, Panjim’s famous Latin Quarter, for a travel writing workshop. Our guide Bob—tour leader by day, vocalist by night—led us through pastel-hued lanes with wrought-iron balconies and azulejo-tiled walls, spinning tales of old Goa.

“Always keep a notepad handy,” Chandrahas advised. “Memories are fickle.” I tried, but when a plate of flaky Goan pastries appeared at Confeitaria, all good intentions went out the window. Some moments are best savoured, not documented.

Another day, we climbed to Our Lady of Piety Church, its whitewashed façade glowing under the afternoon sun. Later, we discovered the difference between urrak and feni at a local tavern, learning (and laughing) as much as we sipped.

The Afterglow of Words

When the final day came, goodbyes were bittersweet. We promised to stay in touch, and—surprisingly—we did. Months later, our WhatsApp group still hums with messages of encouragement, shared successes, and new drafts.

A Bound Writers’ Retreat may last only five days, but its effects linger far longer—much like your favourite book, staying with you long after the last page is turned.

FAQs

1. Where is the retreat held?

Bound Retreats are on-of-a-kind experiences to create a safe and playful space where aspiring writing talent could connect with award-winning authors — to get mentored, seek advice and sharpen their writing expertise. The next retreat Wilding will be held at Mulshi Lake at the Fragrant Sun by The Lake property in Mulshi, near Pune in Maharashtra from November 28-30, 2025. You can find all details about the  retreat here: boundindia.com/retreats/weekend-writing-retreat

2. How do I get there?

• By Air: Fly to Pune International Airport, then take a scenic 2-hour drive to Mulshi.

  By Train: Take a train to Pune Junction or Lonavala, then hire a cab for the final stretch to Mulshi.

  By Road: Drive from Pune via Paud Road or from Mumbai via the Expressway—the journey itself is part of the charm.

3. How do I enroll?

Fill out the application form on their website, including drafts of what you plan to work on during the retreat. Selected participants will be contacted via email.

4. What can I expect from the retreat?

The retreats in 2025 have taken participants to the charming bylanes of Chettinad, misty hills of Coorg and the sun-kissed shores of Goa. Each retreat has been a blend of reflection, creativity, and connection.

5. What is the cost of attending the retreat?

The upcoming retreat fee is ₹38,500 (excluding taxes), which includes 3 days exploring the Western Ghats under the guidance of award-winning author Neha Sinha. Each retreat is unique and priced differently.