With Tribal dancers of Koraput Sundeep Bhatia
India

Into Odisha’s Tribal Soul: Why Koraput Belongs On Your Travel List

In the forested folds of the Eastern Ghats, Koraput offers a journey beyond Wi-Fi zones and curated itineraries—one that moves to the rhythm of tribal drums, natural dyes, and ancient hill gods

Author : Sundeep Bhatia

Some journeys don't begin with a grand plan—they unfold slowly, like a story waiting to be told. Our trip to Koraput in southern Odisha was exactly that. Tucked away in the Eastern Ghats, far from tourist trails, this district remains a well-kept secret even today. And perhaps that's what makes it so unforgettable.

The Journey: A Train to the Unknown

Jeypore Railway Station

We boarded a train from Kolkata to Bhubaneswar first, and later in the evening, an overnight train from Bhubaneswar to Koraput. The landscapes outside the window slowly shifted—plains giving way to forested hills, tribal hamlets flashing past in the early morning light. Our base was Jeypore, a small but well-connected town, perfect for exploring Koraput one day trip at a time.

Kotpad handloom from Koraput

A short drive from Jeypore brought us to Kotpad, a small weaving village with global significance. This is where the famous Kotpad handloom is born—entirely dyed using natural resources like roots, barks, and herbs. We sat with the weavers, mostly women, who explained how a deep maroon or earthy brown takes days to achieve. The process is meditative, and the results—museum-worthy. Shopping here felt different. No bargaining. Just an unspoken respect for the craft.

Markets and More: Lamtaput and Onkadelli

Onkadelli Haat

If you want to witness tribal life up close, time your visit around a weekly haat (market). We visited Onkadelli, near Lamtaput, on a Thursday—and it was unlike any market we'd seen before. Members of the Bonda, Gadaba, Paraja, and other tribes gather here to sell forest produce, hand-carved tools, woven baskets, and sometimes even home-brewed mahua or salap (fermented drinks). There's no Instagram-perfect filter to this market—it's raw, real, and deeply humbling.

In Durua village, we were lucky to witness a traditional tribal dance performance. Women in bright sarees, men with drums and flutes, and a rhythm that made our feet tap instinctively. We even joined them for a few steps, much to everyone's amusement. What stayed with us was the music—soul-touching songs that spoke of the harvest, the forest, love, and longing.

Food from the Forest

Tribal food including Kai Chutney

There's no better way to understand a place than through its food. In Kenduguda village, in Kundra block, we were offered local meals served in leaf bowls—Odisha's GI-tagged Kai chutney made of red ants, rice with leafy greens, spicy mango dessert, and fermented Salap wine made from the salap tree. Everything came from the forest or the backyard.

It was sustainable living without ever using the word 'sustainable.' Expect hospitality that doesn't speak your language—but somehow makes you feel welcome.

Where Gods Are Carved from Wood

Woodwork from Koraput

At Girla village in Kotpad block, we met artisans who carved gods and mythological figures from blocks of wood—intricate, expressive, and all done by hand. These are not mass-produced handicrafts. Each piece tells a story and carries the scent of the forest it came from. Looking at the black metal art, we could see the influence of Bastar in Chhattisgarh. Talking to the artisans, they confirmed that their forefathers had learnt the art from that region, famous for Bastar metalwork.

Nature, Still Untouched

Koraput Odisha's Hidden Gem

We expected rich art, craft and culture from Koraput but did not expect this kind of natural beauty that can entice all sorts of travellers. Deomali, the highest point in Odisha at over 1,600 metres, gave us a jaw-dropping 360-degree view of rolling hills and wispy clouds. It's not hard to imagine why locals consider this a sacred landscape. The tabletop mountains of Talamali are absolutely Insta-worthy and the perfect place for camping.

We found a quiet corner at Punjisil Waterfall, a lesser-known picnic spot where the only sounds are of cascading water and rustling trees. No plastic waste, no vendors, no crowds. Just the forest and us.

The Information | Koraput, Odisha

Folk Dancers Koraput

How to Reach Koraput

Koraput is accessible by air, rail, and road:

  • By Air: The nearest airport is Jeypore Airport (JYP), which operates limited commercial flights. For more frequent connections, the nearest major airport is Visakhapatnam (VTZ), around 220 km away.

  • By Train: Koraput is well connected to major cities in Odisha and Andhra Pradesh. The nearest railway station is either Koraput or Jeypore based on where you are staying.

  • By Road: Koraput is connected by good roadways to nearby cities like Visakhapatnam (6 hours), Raipur (7–8 hours), and Bhubaneswar (10–11 hours). The drive through the Eastern Ghats is scenic and worth the effort.

Where to Stay in Koraput

We stayed at Hotel Signature in Jeypore, Koraput—a clean, budget-friendly option with decent-sized rooms, a good breakfast buffet, and warm hospitality. Another nearby hotel is Hotel Princess, just a 10-minute walk from Signature, where we had dinner a couple of times during our stay.

Apart from that, some villages offer homestay options as well, but we chose to stay in Jeypore for its central location to all the villages and the railway station.

Most of the villages we explored—from Kotpad to Lamtaput and Durua—were within 40–55 km of Jeypore. Travel times ranged from 1.5 to 2.5 hours. That said, the scenic route was an experience in itself—with lush greenery, occasional hills, and sudden bursts of monsoon rain that turned the drive into a joyride.

What to Shop in Koraput

  • Kotpad & Bhansuli: These villages are ideal for picking up Kotpad handwoven sarees, stoles, and natural-dyed fabric. Most artisans work on order, so don't expect large stocks—but ask around and you'll be shown whatever is available. We picked up dupattas for gifts and fabric for custom shirts.

  • Girla Village: Good for wood-carved idols of gods and mythological figures, as well as wrought iron home décor.

  • Onkadelli Market: Great for tribal silver and bead jewellery, handmade by women from local tribes. We also spotted beautiful necklaces made from dried grass—a few of which made it to our bags!

  • Jeypore: Visit the Utkalika and Boyanika showrooms run by the Odisha government for Sambalpuri handlooms, shirts, and sarees.

Chhena Poda

And finally, a local sweet shop cum bakery called Maharaja Restaurant in Jeypore surprised us with Chhena Poda—an Odia cottage cheese sweet so good, we finished it on our return journey to Kolkata. You can pack home other longer-lasting sweets like Gauja.

Best Time to Visit

Koraput enjoys a pleasant climate most of the year, thanks to its elevation. Post-monsoon (September to February) is ideal for visiting—when the hills are lush, and the tribal festivals are in full swing. Summer months are warm but still bearable due to the forest cover and the occasional unpredicted rain.

Koraput: A Place That Stays With You

Koraput isn't for those looking for luxury or nightlife. It's for travellers who want to listen, observe, and learn. It's for those who don't mind slow travel, dusty roads, and unpredictable encounters.

In a country as diverse as India, it's easy to get overwhelmed by the obvious. Koraput reminded us that the real stories often lie beyond Wi-Fi zones and curated itineraries. So if you're looking for a destination that makes you feel more than it makes you post—add Koraput to your map.

You may not find it in glossy travel brochures, but that's exactly the point.

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