From The Latest Issue: Discovering The Divine Feminine In Odisha’s Yogini Temples

In the winter of 2021, I was on a survey of Odisha, covering eight sites across the state. Among them, two stood apart: the Chausath Yogini temples in Ranipur Jharial and Hirapur. These open-to-sky, circular shrines—steeped in Tantric tradition and mystery—offered something more than history. They were invitations to listen.

Having previously visited Yogini temples in MP's Bhedaghat and Khajuraho, I was curious to understand the regional distinctiveness of Odisha's shrines. British officer Major General John Campbell, in 1864, was among the first to document them, describing temples linked to secrecy, transformation, and esoteric rites.

Following my usual rule of travelling to the most remote site first, I began with Ranipur Jharial in Balangir district, near the Andhra Pradesh border. From Bhubaneswar, I hired a young driver—someone who could be overruled if necessary. Some sites lay in tribal belts, and a little caution seemed wise.

Stone, Spirit, Silence

The long drive wound through paddy fields and ponds, groves and quiet hamlets. The terrain reminded me of parts of Thailand and Indonesia, where water and cultivation exist in a delicate balance. I arrived at the site by dusk, spent the night in a modest lodge, and set out before sunrise.

Choosing to walk across the fields instead of taking the road proved rewarding. I stumbled upon rock carvings—an emaciated Lakulisha (28th and the last avatar of Shiva) in high relief, and the Saptamatrikas (seven Hindu mother goddesses) etched on the reverse. Over time, I've learned that archaeological features often reveal themselves to those willing to wander off the prescribed path.

The temple sat atop a stone outcrop, partially concealed by the landscape. It was locked. I waited for the caretaker, watching the village stir: cattle being led to the pond, women gathering to wash clothes, the sun warming my skin by the water. The wait, as always, became part of the exploration. Observing how a site lives within its present environment often offers clues about its past life. When the temple was finally opened, I was greeted by a remarkable sight. At Ranipur Jharial, the Yoginis weren't simply seated or standing as in other shrines. Here, they danced. Encircling a central image of Shiva in the ardha paryanka pose, each goddess mirrored his meditative posture. Though carved in stone, they seemed to shift mid-motion. Many Yoginis from sites like these have disappeared—stolen, sold, or hidden in foreign collections. Some now lie in museum vitrines. It's not always safe to return them to their original sanctums. But this circle was largely intact, quietly protected and barely understood. I imagined the temple at night, lit by oil lamps, the Yoginis emerging from shadow. The air filled with murmurs of chants, the sound of anklets, the hum of ritual. These are not casual tourist sites. They are potent spaces, thick with presence and intent.

Not far from the shrine, children led me to what they called a "magic point"—a wave-like rock formation that revealed smaller temples as you walked. It culminated in an open-air platform, where I found a large mandala formed entirely of stones. Its geometric precision echoed diagrams I had studied at Oxford, especially from Vikramashila University. Those texts describe rituals where a flower garland is cast into a mandala to determine which deity is to be invoked.

I had always imagined these diagrams as temporary, drawn in grains or pigment. To find one in stone, intact and in the wild, was startling. The site felt complete—not just in structure, but in spirit. There were no tourists, no signage, only the sound of wind moving across stone.

Circles Of Power

From Ranipur Jharial, I moved slowly toward Bhubaneswar and eventually reached Hirapur, the second Yogini site. Unlike its remote counterpart, Hirapur lies close to the capital and remains an active place of worship.

Hirapur is the smallest of the Yogini temples, just 30 feet across. Circular and open to the sky, it has no sanctum, no spire, and no axial alignment. Its low walls house 64 Yoginis, each carved in chlorite stone. Some are animal-headed, others skeletal. They hold weapons, ride mounts, or make specific gestures. At the centre once stood the presiding deity—likely Kali—though only her pedestal remains.

Built during the Bhauma Kara dynasty, possibly under Queen Hiradevi's reign, the temple reflects a time when Tantric and Shakta traditions flourished in Odisha. Here, the divine feminine is not ornamental. She is active, fierce, and central to the spiritual experience. Standing within that circle, one feels an entirely different kind of reverence. These are not deities to approach with soft devotion. They are energies—intense and enigmatic—that must be engaged, understood, and respected.

As my fieldwork concluded, I reflected on the two sites. One largely forgotten, embedded in stone and secrecy. The other, more visible, yet equally profound. Both offered a glimpse into a world where sacredness isn't confined to rituals or sanctums. It spills into landscape, symbolism, and presence.

These are not just temples. They are invitations to reconsider the divine. And to ask, where else is the feminine so fiercely worshipped, protected, and given form?

FAQs

1. What are Chausath Yogini temples?

Chausath Yogini temples are unique shrines dedicated to 64 yoginis (female deities), linked with tantric worship and distinctive circular architecture.

2. Where are the Chausath Yogini temples located in Odisha?

Two of the most famous ones are in Ranipur Jharial (Balangir district) and Hirapur (near Bhubaneswar).

3. Why are Chausath Yogini temples circular?

The circular design symbolises the cosmic mandala, creating a sacred space for tantric rituals and goddess worship.

4. What makes the Hirapur Chausath Yogini temple special?

Built in the 9th century, the Hirapur temple is one of the smallest Chausath Yogini shrines, featuring intricately carved stone yogini figures.

5. What is unique about the Ranipur Jharial Chausath Yogini temple?

Known as the ‘Somatirtha’, Ranipur Jharial’s temple features a vast circular stone structure and is part of a larger complex with several ancient shrines.

6. Are the Chausath Yogini temples active places of worship?

Yes, though many are heritage sites, they continue to be revered for rituals, festivals, and local goddess worship.

7. What are the visiting hours and entry fees for these temples?

The Hirapur temple is open daily from sunrise to sunset with free entry. Ranipur Jharial also has free entry but may require local guidance to explore.

8. How can travellers reach these temples?

• Hirapur: About 15 km from Bhubaneswar, accessible by taxi or auto.

• Ranipur Jharial: Around 100 km from Balangir, reachable via road.

Anica Mann is an art historian, archaeologist, and curator

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