The morning air carried a distinctive chill as I stepped onto the terrace style balcony of my suite at the Evolve Back Kamalapura Palace. Silhouettes of massive granite boulders jutted against the navy-blue sky, their ancient forms standing sentinel over a landscape that harbors far more than just the ruins of the Vijayanagara Empire. Most travellers come to Hampi for its 14th century temples and palaces, spreading across 26 sq km of UNESCO World Heritage terrain. But I had heard whispers of another Hampi – a wild one, where leopards stalk among the boulders and sloth bears forage on hillsides. This was the Hampi I sought.

A chance meeting with young Tirumala Venkata Devaraya, the 20th descendant of King Krishnadevaraya revealed many unknown truths about the place. “The wild is being pushed away with expanding agricultural needs, but we have an incredible diversity still hidden among rocks”, Tirumala, a historian and author of ‘In The Empire Of The God King’ released in March 2025, says there is much to cherish in the landscape even if one is not particularly interested in the ruins.

"The extraordinary wildlife we seek in faraway destinations often exists in our own backyard, if only we train our eyes to see beyond the obvious", Sharath Champati, Director of Conservation at Evolve Back resorts, had told me during an orientation session. His words, drawn from experience spanning from their luxurious Hampi property to their breathtaking camp in Botswana, resonated with me throughout my journey.

Wild Wild Hampi

We ventured into the Daroji Bear Sanctuary, just 15 km from Hampi's core ruins the next day. As the sun painted the boulders in amber hues, a dark form materialised against the golden landscape about 200 m from our safari vehicle – a sloth bear, its shaggy coat undulating as it ambled between rocky outcrops, nose to the ground in search of termites and fruits. As dusk descended over the boulder-strewn landscape, I watched from a watchtower as several dark figures emerged cautiously from rocky crevices, disturbed only by the incessant chitters of the grey mongoose neighbors. "You're witnessing living mythology", whispered Srinivas Gowda, a forest guide who had joined us. "In these very boulders, according to the Ramayana, lived Jambavant, the wise bear king who helped Lord Rama and later fought with Krishna for the Syamantaka jewel. It's no coincidence that the Kishkindha region - considered Hanuman's birthplace - is here! These ancient rocks have sheltered bears for millennia, blending natural history with our most sacred epics." As if to illustrate his point, a mother bear reared up suddenly, her distinctive moon-shaped chest marking visible as she scanned for threats before allowing her cubs to scramble after her toward the jaggery-laced rocks that sanctuary officials place to supplement their diet. In that moment, watching these shy creatures navigate their prehistoric home, the line between mythology and wildlife conservation dissolved into a profound narrative where bears have always been both divine and wild.

My second evening brought even greater surprise. While photographing the sunset from the resort's observation deck, a collective gasp rose from fellow guests. Following their pointed fingers, I spotted the unmistakable rosette pattern of a leopard as it gracefully navigated across distant boulders before disappearing into shadow. "That's a resident male," whispered the naturalist accompanying us. "He controls this territory and sometimes passes through at dusk."

Stupendous Riches

Hampi's treasures extend beyond architecture and thrilling mammals. The Tungabhadra River, winding sinuously through the boulder-strewn landscape, nurtures life in this semi-arid region. I joined a coracle boat ride along the river at sunrise, where the distinctive "who-who" call led us to an Indian Eagle Owl perched within a rocky crevice, its intense orange eyes surveying us with regal indifference.

The boat's operator expertly steered us toward the riverbank where two smooth-coated otters played among the reeds, their sleek bodies twisting and diving in perfect synchrony. "River dogs", he laughed, using the local nickname for these increasingly rare mammals.

Perhaps the most spectacular wildlife experience awaited at Ankasamudra Lake, a 45-minute drive from the main heritage town. Arriving shortly after sunrise, we were greeted by a horizon painted pink – not from the early light but from thousands of flamingos that had made this lake their temporary home during migration. Their gentle honking calls mixed with the more raucous sounds of painted storks and spoonbills that waded through the shallows, creating a living tapestry of movement.

"This spectacle rivals anything I've seen in more famous wildlife destinations", I remember Champati saying. "Yet most visitors to Hampi never venture here, focused only on the monuments."

My final day brought a special quest. The yellow-throated bulbul – an endemic species found only in peninsular India – is known to inhabit the scrub forests among Hampi's monuments. Armed with binoculars and patience, I positioned myself near the Queen's Bath complex as recommended by the naturalists and Srinivas.

After an hour of quiet waiting, a flash of yellow caught my eye. A distinctive yellow throat patch visible as the bird hopped between thorny bushes, occasionally emitting soft calls. In that moment, watching this elusive creature against the backdrop of ancient architecture, the dual heritage of Hampi crystallised for me – a place where human history and natural history have co-existed for centuries.

As the setting sun once again transformed Hampi's boulders into molten gold, I reflected on these encounters and Champati's parting words: "Conservation begins with appreciation, and appreciation begins with observation. What we've preserved in Botswana, we're working to nurture here too – the understanding that wildlife and human heritage aren't separate realms but interconnected stories."

Beyond the magnificent temples and palaces that rightfully draw thousands of visitors, Hampi harbors wild secrets that reward those willing to look beyond the stone monuments to the living, breathing ecosystem that surrounds them. In this ancient landscape, both human and natural wonders have found a timeless sanctuary.

Chandreyi Bandyopadhyay is a nature and wildlife enthusiast with a penchant for words and shares her travels on @themoonchasersofficial