Arrival of the train at the Dera Baba Nanak station Author
India

Border Tracks Of Punjab: Three Historic Train Journeys From Amritsar

Short local train rides from Amritsar to Attari, Dera Baba Nanak and Khem Karan offer a slow, evocative journey through Punjab’s borderlands, blending Partition history, rural landscapes and living heritage

Author : Rameshinder Singh Sandhu

During your earlier trips, you may have discovered many facets of Amritsar, from its mouth-watering food to moments of spirituality at the Golden Temple. Yet another exciting dimension reveals itself when you board one of the border trains. These services head to Attari, Dera Baba Nanak and Khem Karan — the last Indian towns before the border with Pakistan. Each offers much to explore, from historic sites to revered shrines.

However, these trains departing from Amritsar and its neighbouring stations are not limited to devotional travel. They also present an opportunity to glimpse the quiet beauty of Punjab’s countryside. Here, you can embrace slow travel, connect with villagers and admire British-era architecture, thanks to several vintage stations that remain a cynosure at every halt.

Attari, Amristsar District

A journey of about 25 kilometres, covered in 40–45 minutes with brief halts at Chheharta and Khasa, takes you along a deeply historic route. The same track carried the blood-soaked trains of Partition for days and nights in August 1947. Were it not for the border, one could reach Lahore in just another 30 minutes; the track still exists but stands gated at the frontier. It also featured in Salman Khan’s 'Bajrangi Bhaijaan' (2015).

As Khasa is my village, I often travel on this train, which offers a deeply relaxing journey. The rural beauty begins to unfold as soon as the train leaves Chheharta behind. Green fields stretch in all directions, fresh air flows in and a gentle silence prevails — all of which elevate one’s thoughts. Shortly after Chheharta, you can also spot the grounds of the Border Security Force (BSF), where jawans engage in practice sessions.

Platform of Attari station on a foggy Decemeber morning

En route, I admire the distant villages and hamlets that sit close to the track. Conversations with co-passengers are always engaging. “It’s a perfect break whenever I am on this train. The large windows keep presenting the best of nature,” said a farmer I met a few weeks ago. Some days, the coaches remain largely empty; on others, they are filled with families and newly married couples. On the return journey, many passengers plan a visit to the Golden Temple.

In December, when I travelled to Attari, fog obscured the views, yet the morning exuded a storybook charm. At Attari, a colonial-era station welcomes you. It also has an international platform from where several trains have departed for or arrived from Pakistan, even after Partition. A song from Shah Rukh Khan’s 'Veer-Zaara' (2004) was filmed here.

Things to Know:

Ticket price: INR 10. Two daily services: 07:30 am and 06:20 pm from Amritsar to Attari; 08:20 am and 07:15 pm from Attari to Amritsar.

Things to Do in Attari:

Apart from the famous Attari–Wagah border parade in the evening, you can visit nearby Sarai Amanat Khan village, known for its vintage architecture and once a resting place during the Mughal era on the old Delhi–Lahore route. It continues to attract film crews. Pul Moran, also known as Pul Kanjri, is another historic site near the border fence. Built by Maharaja Ranjit Singh, it served as a resting place during his journeys between Delhi and Lahore. It derives its name from Moran, a dancer who entertained him here.

The town is also home to Sham Singh Attari Park. Sham Singh Attari was a celebrated general in Maharaja Ranjit Singh’s army. Do not miss the small museum dedicated to his life and that of the Maharaja.

Dera Baba Nanak, Gurdaspur District

Hardowal station on the Dera Baba Nanak route

Within minutes of departure from the first halt at Verka station, rich countryside scenes begin to unfold. The journey covers nearly 55 kilometres in about one hour and 20 minutes, stopping briefly at stations such as Majitha, Ramdas, Rattar Chattar and Hardowal. Their vintage buildings are instantly striking, some draped in colourful bougainvillea.

Verka station resembles a hill-station bungalow with its large veranda, while Dera Baba Nanak’s modest building holds a charm of another world and was also featured in 'Gustaakh Ishq' (2025).

Passengers at Dera Baba Nanak station

I first travelled on this route a few weeks ago, boarding the 10:30 am service from Verka. Some departures originate here, though connections are available from Amritsar, just minutes away. The train weaved through agricultural fields where men and women worked in pea farms. On the return journey, as the day’s work concluded, many waved cheerfully at us.

Passengers included locals and BSF jawans returning to duty after leave. “This train trip is the best part of my journey. I feel very peaceful on it even if the coaches are fully packed,” said one of them, adding that Punjab Tourism and the Railways should promote such routes for the unique glimpse they offer of border regions.

Things to Know:

Ticket price: INR 15. Four daily services: 04:20 am, 10:30 am, 02:15 pm and 05:50 pm from Amritsar/Verka; 06:05 am, 12:15 pm, 04:00 pm and 07:20 pm from Dera Baba Nanak to Verka/Amritsar.

Colonial Era train station building of Verka

Things to Do in Dera Baba Nanak:

Apart from visiting Sri Kartarpur Sahib in Pakistan via the Kartarpur Corridor (currently closed from the Indian side), explore several gurdwaras associated with Sri Guru Nanak, after whom the town is named. Darbar Sahib, near the bus stand in a bustling bazaar, is the main shrine and serves free langar throughout the day. Nearby Sri Chohla Sahib is another significant site where relics associated with Guru Nanak are displayed. Sikh artefacts here are often more affordable than those around the Golden Temple.

Khem Karan, Taran Taran District

Passengers ready to board the train at Khem Karan

After 12 halts and nearly two hours (77 kilometres), the train reaches Khem Karan. Like Dera Baba Nanak and Attari, the arrival is quiet. The single platform faces agricultural fields, and the small station buildings retain their charm.

Some trains also depart from Bhagtanwala station, about 15 minutes from Amritsar by tuk-tuk. Whenever I have travelled on the Khem Karan route, the train has been full, though a seat is usually available.

“I can never forget my trip on this train to Kairon station in 2004 to meet relatives. I was a teenager then,” recalls Bikramdeep Singh Pannu, now based in Norway. “The scenic route was a perfect sightseeing experience.”

Along the way, tractors plough fields, women carry bundles of wood along the tracks and elderly farmers drive bullock carts. These simple yet vivid scenes enrich the journey from the train window.

The road just outside the Khem Karan train station

Things to Know:

Ticket price: INR 20. Four daily services: 04:40 am, 09:15 am, 01:35 pm and 06:10 pm from Amritsar/Bhagtanwala; 06:50 am, 11:25 am, 03:35 pm and 08:10 pm from Khem Karan to Amritsar/Bhagtanwala.

Things to Do in Khem Karan:

Khem Karan is home to two shrines located amid agricultural fields along the border line: Gurudwara Sahib Singh Shaheed and Sheikh Braham Dargah, a Sufi saint’s resting place associated with Sri Guru Nanak. The gurdwara opens every Sunday, while the dargah opens every Thursday.

Visitors must cross border fencing after an ID inspection by BSF officials. Identity documents and electronic devices must be deposited with the BSF. People from Pakistan often gather on their side to observe worshippers standing near the white triangular border markers alongside Pakistani Rangers. Photography restrictions apply only on the Indian side.

A Note for Authorities: Heritage Stations Ignored

Kairon train station on the Amritsar to Khem Karan route

Despite the heritage value of the colonial-era stations on all three routes, they have not been adequately maintained by the concerned Railway authorities. Many have been labelled abandoned. On the Amritsar–Attari route, the British-era buildings at Chheharta and Khasa were demolished a few years ago. Khasa station, once known for film shoots due to its distinctive design, has lost its historic character.

Both the Railways and the Punjab Heritage and Tourism Promotion Board could promote these routes more actively, as they offer a rare and enriching borderland experience.

The writer is an Amritsar-based freelance contributor. The opinions are his own and do not represent the magazine's sentiments.

FAQs

1. Which are the best short train journeys from Amritsar to the border areas?
The three notable short train journeys from Amritsar are to Attari, Dera Baba Nanak and Khem Karan. Each route offers historic significance, rural scenery and access to important shrines and border landmarks.

2. How long does the train journey from Amritsar to Attari take?
The journey from Amritsar to Attari covers around 25 kilometres and takes approximately 40–45 minutes, with brief halts at Chheharta and Khasa stations.

3. What is special about the Dera Baba Nanak train route?
The Dera Baba Nanak route passes through lush agricultural fields and several vintage stations. The town is associated with Sri Guru Nanak and is near the Kartarpur Corridor.

4. Are these border train journeys suitable for a day trip?
Yes, all three routes — Attari, Dera Baba Nanak and Khem Karan — are ideal for short day trips from Amritsar, offering historical insights and a glimpse of rural Punjab.

5. What are the ticket prices for these local trains from Amritsar?
Ticket prices are affordable: approximately INR 10 for Attari, INR 15 for Dera Baba Nanak and INR 20 for Khem Karan, making them budget-friendly travel experiences.

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