A Rendezvous With The Wild: A Journey To Ranthambore

The journey to Ranthambore began with an early morning drive from Delhi, as the city’s chaos gradually gave way to the countryside. After only a single stop along the way, we arrived at the stunning Bookmark Resorts Jogi Mahal, nestled at just a stone’s throw from the Ranthambore Tiger Reserve. The property presented us with its mock-vernacular architecture—an experimental blend of Rajasthani heritage and contemporary luxury.

A Perfect Introduction

Upon entering the resort, its ambience and welcoming staff set the tone for our stay. The hotel is designed to reflect the region’s cultural ethos, with sprawling courtyards (integral as the central source of light in Indian homes, especially Rajasthani), earthy tones, and intricate motifs inspired by Rajasthani craftsmanship. The Olympic-sized pool, designed like a traditional baoli (stepwell), was particularly striking as it sent me back to the iconic long-shot scene from the film ‘Paheli’ at the Chand Baori of Abhaneri, adding a touch of authenticity to the modern luxury.

After checking in, I settled into my room—a spacious retreat with a private plunge pool. As I admired the view of the sparse, enveloping Aravalli hills during mid-day, I anticipated the encounters with the wild that awaited me. A lavish lunch at the hotel’s multi-cuisine restaurant followed, featuring local delicacies like ker sangri and freshly baked flatbreads. The emphasis on sustainability was evident in the use of locally sourced ingredients, locally employed labour and the absence of plastic across the property.

An Evening of Discovery

Post a short rest, the evening brought a special treat—a screening of ‘The World’s Most Famous Tiger’, a poignant documentary on the legendary tigress Machli by Subbiah Nallamuthu. Sitting in the resort’s auditorium – large enough to accommodate about 300 heads at once. I was taken by the film’s raw depiction of Ranthambore’s wilderness. With the zeal of the director depicted in his entailing of the tigress regardless of the tumultuous weather, the depiction of tigress Machli as the Queen of Ranthambore with a rather tragic and solitary life, subsequently her last rites observed by forest officials, locals and the director, dissolved the boundary between humanity and the wild, offering a gaze that humbled our existence. Among other things the film offered a unique, non-anthropocentric gaze into the forest, reminding me of our role as nature itself rather than custodians or conquerors of it. The film stayed with me.

Later, upon an interaction with the director Nallamuthu, I found out that Machli's legacy has been more than just about her role in wildlife conservation. “Her descendants were translocated to Sariska after it became a no-tiger zone, and now there are over 30 tigers thriving there,” Nallamuthu explained. “Machli has not only enhanced the tiger population but also contributed significantly to the local economy, as the locals have benefitted from the boost in tourism that her legacy brought.”

Nallamuthu went on to highlight how the unique geographical features of Ranthambore have shaped its tiger tourism. “The tiger sightings here are incredibly frequent because the tourism routes follow the paths these tigers have used for generations,” he shared. “Guides and tourists can predict where to find them thanks to these routes, which are embedded in the tigers’ genetic memory.” However, he acknowledged that this predictability might not appeal to everyone, as some visitors prefer the unpredictable thrill of tracking tigers in the more rugged, less commercialised parts of India.

Into the Wild

The next morning, our day began with a safari into Ranthambore National Park. We explored the rugged terrain as the first light of dawn broke over the forest. The park is renowned for its thriving tiger population, offering exceptional wildlife sightings, including leopards, crocodiles, and various bird species. It is also home to the historic Ranthambore Fort, adding a fascinating cultural dimension to its rich natural heritage. The park came alive with the symphony of rufous treepies, Indian pittas and the melodic calls of crested serpent eagles. Langurs swung from branch to branch, some picking lice from their newborn’s heads, their playful antics drawing chuckles from everyone, while herds of chital and sambar deer gracefully navigated the underbrush.

By mid-morning, we reached the ancient Ranthambore Fort, a UNESCO World Heritage Site steeped in history. Perched atop a hill which is idiosyncratic of Rajasthani forts, the fort dates back to the 10th century, showcasing impressive Rajasthani architecture with its robust gates, intricate temples and ancient stepwells. The fort’s strategic position atop a hill offers panoramic views, symbolising the region's resilience and its historical significance as a military stronghold. As we trekked the steep path along its ramparts, the panoramic views of the surrounding jungle were breathtaking, contrasting the fort’s rich past with the untamed spirit of the wilderness.

An Evening of Awe

Lunch at Jogi Mahal after the morning excursion was a delightful affair. The restaurant, which offers both indoor and alfresco dining, served an array of sumptuous dishes. The open dining area, shaded by lush greenery, was the perfect spot to savour the flavors of Rajasthan. Refreshed, we embarked on an evening safari, eager to catch a glimpse of the elusive tiger.

The jeep safari, which is the predominant attraction of Ranthambore National Park, operates every day in two shifts — morning and evening. On every safari shift, a fixed allotment of 20 jeeps and 20 canters are allowed entry into the national park. Hours of traversing trails and passing dejected, properly despondent gazes to each other finally bore fruit when we spotted three tiger cubs lounging by a waterhole. Their youthful curiosity and playful antics were a sight to behold. However, left alone by their tigress mother, their situation made way for a dramatic encounter for us onlookers. A herd of deer cautiously approached, their eyes twinkling in the canopy shadow of the forest like in a Yorgos Lanthimos film, attempting to assert dominance over the cubs. To see deers chasing the big cats away fell out of joint with the chain of being for us, a bizarre occurrence in nature. Just as the tension reached its peak, their mother arrived. Her commanding presence restored order as she led her cubs back into the forest. It was a scene straight out of a wildlife documentary, leaving us in awe of nature’s intricate dynamics.

The Night Comes Alive

The following night comprised of an outdoor dinner under a canopy of stars preceded by a session of star-gazing and constellation-mapping. Jogi Mahal organised a traditional Rajasthani cultural performance, featuring songs, dances and fire breather stunts. As we feasted on laal maas paired with delicious breads and pulav, beats of the dhol and the twirls of the dancers echoed through the night, blending seamlessly with the distant calls of the jungle. It is only sensible to mention that Laal Maas, a fiery Rajasthani curry made with mutton, slow-cooked in a blend of red chillies and aromatic spices, comes down from the kitchen of the royal Rajput warriors. It was crafted to reflect their bold, adventurous spirit and its signature heat comes from the liberal use of dried red chillies, making it a unique and iconic part of Rajasthani cuisine.

The Final Expedition

Our last morning at Ranthambore was dedicated to another safari, this time following the faint trail of pugmarks, alarm calls and rustling foliage. Although the tigers remained elusive, the vibrant birdlife kept our spirits high. We spotted painted storks, black-necked storks and the elusive paradise flycatcher—each a vivid splash of colour against the forest’s earthy hues. In the morning, the deeper ranges of the Ranthambore reserve looked greener.

Returning to Jogi Mahal, we indulged in a hearty lunch featuring dishes like dal baati churma and cooling chaas. Dal Baati Churma is a quintessential Rajasthani dish, featuring baked wheat balls (baati) served with a spiced lentil curry (dal) and a sweet crushed mixture of baati, ghee, and jaggery (churma). Rajasthani cuisine is known for its bold flavours, often characterised by the liberal use of spices, ghee, and unique cooking techniques, reflecting the region's rich cultural heritage and desert environment. The resort’s dedication to sustainability was again evident, from herb gardening to eco-conscious practices like waste segregation and minimal use of plastic.

As we prepared to leave, I realised that my stay at Bookmark Jogi Mahal had been more than just a luxurious escape—it was an immersive journey into Ranthambore’s heart. The memories of Machli’s legacy, the tiger cubs’ playful gaze, and the fort’s historic grandeur lingered as we hit the road back to Delhi, my soul nourished by the wilderness.