This Tourist Guide In Chanderi Taught Himself To Read 12 Scripts

Among the many historical gems in Madhya Pradesh is Chanderi, where Muzaffar Ansari will leave you intrigued by his craft as a tourist guide. From the ghost tales to Mughal influence, your trip to this weaver’s town is unfulfilled without meeting Ansari—a living repository of fun facts when it comes to Chanderi’s past. His wit and charm have made this iconic place even more popular.

Fondly called Kalle Bhai, the story behind this moniker is even more stimulating. One might quip, "What's in a name?" However, Ansari's journey as a credible tour guide started with the very same name. A blessing in disguise is how he delineated his experience when a French research group mistook him for the wrong Kalle Bhai, only to find a resourceful friend for a lifetime.

"I must have been 17-18 when my fate was charting an exciting territory," he reminisces while talking to Outlook Traveller. He went on working with the French for about 10 years and upskilled himself as a guide in Chanderi. Little did he know that his experience with scholars would make him a seasoned tourist guide and elevate his hometown's touristy status, exactly how he dreamt of as a 10-year-old.

Early Years of Kalle Bhai

As a child, Ansari was fascinated by his maternal grandfather’s storytelling instincts, primarily centring around the many legends of Chanderi. “While I loved learning about the ghost legends, weaving traditions and the fabled Chanderi Fort, my curiosity would compel me to dig deeper and corroborate the claims." The mind-boggling narratives drew him to study history and heritage through the eyes of locals and researchers. The financial constraints, however, made him quit school in class 6. He began supporting his family, initially in their ancestral occupation of weaving and then switching to odd jobs. But the ordeals didn't let the student in him go astray. Interactions with people from a broad spectrum grew while working in small shops, eventually nurturing his inner student and researcher.

“I began discovering Chanderi through word of mouth and borrowed books,” he recalls. This early exposure led him to meet different people, from teachers and students to international tourists. Sometimes, he would walk around and stare at the silhouette of the tall monuments and admire their architectural depth. Wandering became a hobby as he explored, weaving his tryst with historic structures.

Donning Multiple Hats As A Tourist Guide in Chanderi

And what’s more from this multi-faceted man: impeccable storytelling, a knack he has acquired from his nanaji (maternal grandfather). The clarity of thought and a build-up that transports people back in time can make him stand out from any local guide. His tours, usually stretching up to 35 people in a day, divided in different groups, are all about immersing in his fun narrations, backed by facts and long walks across the quaint lanes. As the tour winds up, he will invite you to dinner at his home and show you his coin collection, with over 200 coins from the Mughal dynasty sourced from exhibitions, goldsmiths, and pawn shops.

If you meet him, don't forget to glance over his shoulder, where his travel mate, a khadi bag, sits comfortably. Wondering what he carries in it, Ansari will happily let you take a sneak peek and gift you a handpainted postcard with your name written in multiple languages.

“In my early working years, I would love to visit the monuments and get into the details. The inscriptions on these structures compelled me to learn more about languages.” Name a script from Assamese, Sharda, Brahmi, or Gurumukhi; he will read it for you. No wonder reading 10-12 scripts is smooth sailing as he continues to challenge himself.

In 2009, Ansari took his class 12 exam. Today, at 59, he is a proud final-year undergraduate student with his youngest son. His latest pursuit is reading about ancient rock paintings. And that's not it, he tells Outlook Traveller, wearing a camouflaged cap and jotting down his day plan in a diary— his all-day companion.