When in Sri Lanka, don't do what the Lankans don't do. Like buy a Made-in-China, wind-up guerrilla that shimmies straight into a chasm of clichés. Not on a holy island in post-war Jaffna, where nothing but a barrage of sacred artillery &mdash water lilies, incense, coconuts, palmyra jaggery &mdash is aimed at armies of Buddhist and Hindu devotees seeking divine grace at the Nagadeepa Vihara and Nagapooshani Amman Kovil.