Lost Legacies: Discovering Lucknow's Tawaif Heritage

Since the release of Heeramandi, which was Sanjay Leela Bhansali’s first foray into directing for OTT, the country has been swept by the re-emergence of a fascination with courtesans. The rich and complicated history of the tawaifs of Lahore, depicted in the show, has rediscovered with people sharing images of present-day Heeramandi in Lahore and revelling in the wonders it once housed. Several places in India, too, boast of the exuberant tawaif culture, and Lucknow is one such place.

Courtesans enjoyed patronage from the Nawabs of Lucknow, and well-respected households sent their sons to Tawaif kothas to learn “tehzeeb” or etiquette. Thus, The Tawaifs of Awadh were the original custodians of art and culture and occupied a unique, influential, and respected place in the social landscape of the city that echoes across its many monuments.

Who were the Tawaifs of Lucknow?

Tawaif culture, present since medieval times, became prominent under the Mughals. The decline of the Mughal Empire in the late 18th century led to the mass exodus of these female performers moving from Delhi to Lucknow, shifting the cultural centre.

Tawaifs enjoyed an autonomous lifestyle and respected social standing. They managed their wealth and were well-read. Several works have discovered the courtesans in Lucknow as civic tax ledgers of 1858-77 who were listed in the highest tax bracket with the largest individual incomes of any in the city. 

When the British annexation of Awadh in 1856, Tawaifs subtly supported the revolt against the British East India Company. After the 1857 revolt, however, their reputation suffered at the hands of the British, and restrictions were imposed on them. 

Their culture left an indelible mark on the cultural bedrock of Lucknow. While much of their history has been forgotten owing to the reputation that the British gave them, given below are some places in the city that have a connection with the courtesans of Lucknow and can be visited today.

Trailing Lucknow's Tawaif Heritage

Lucknow’s Chowk

The Chowk is a historic shopping and residential centre. Located in old Lucknow, it is known for old shops selling authentic chikankari and zardosi garments, handmade jewellery, and ittar (perfume). 

Many believe that the place was established when Nawab Asaf-ud-Daula shifted the capital of Awadh to Lucknow in 1775. However, parts of the Chowk, like the Akbari Darwza, were built much earlier. The Akbari Darwaza was constructed during Emperor Akbar's reign. On the northern side of Chowk, the Gol Darwaza was built under Asaf-ud-Daula. 

The neighborhoods of the main Chowk area were known for their traditional bazaars and kothas (courtesan houses), where many tawaifs lived and performed. 

Kothas were the houses of residence for courtesans, and from where they conducted their daily affairs. In the revolt of 1857 and after, certain kothas were also used to host intelligentsia, conduct meetings, and store resources for the rebels. 

.Today, Kothas continue to operate, albeit in private and are, therefore, difficult to find upon first glance. Despite this, the Chowk illustrates an intriguing history pulsating with the energy of the courtesans that once occupied the area. 

Visit Chowk:

The Chowk is open on all days of the week, except Thursdays, from 11 AM to 10:30 PM. The main area extends between the Gol Darwza and the Akbari Gate and can be easily accessed through local transport like cabs and auto rickshaws. The nearest railway station is the Dalianz station, which is at a distance of 3.4 kilometres from the market.

The market houses close to five thousand shops, and you’ll often find groups of people walking through the area as many heritage and food walks are conducted at the Chowk.

Qaisar Bagh Complex and Kaisarbagh Palace

Wajid Ali Shah was the last king of Awadh. He ruled from 1847 to 1856 and is remembered as a patron of the arts and culture in the city. He is said to have nurtured the Kathak dance form and enriched the light classical form of thumri, as well as composed ghazals. 

The walled palace of the Nawab was called Kaiserbagh Palace. The structure’s construction was completed in 1852. It housed the King, his wives, and the prime minister, along with several other important buildings.

Records from the colonial administration have recorded the “loot” seized from one set of female apartments in Kaisarbagh Palace, where some of the Nawab’s consorts—many of whom were Tawaifs—resided when the British seized the complex.

Wajid Ali Shah is said to have had close to three hundred wives, some of whom were originally high-class courtesans who performed in his court. He referred to them as "Paris" (fairies) and, hence, their place of residence was called the "pari-khana" (Residence of the fairies). 

Even today, tourists can visit Qaisar Bagh (referred to as Kaiserbagh by some) and revel in the royalty of the last Nawab, who was also a true patron of the contribution offered by the Tawaifs to the artistic scene of the city.

Visit Kaiserbagh:

Kaiserbagh Palace is open between 8 AM and 8 PM on all days of the week. There is no entry fees. While much of the structure remains in ruins after the British destroyed part of it following the Revolt of 1857, visitors can still see the palace's Moorish minarets, lanterns, pediments, and bannisters. 

The palace complex involves approximately 2 kilometres of walking; Multiple heritage walks also take place through the complex which usually need to be paid for. It is recommended to keep aside at least an hour to walk through the complex completely.

Lucknow’s Imambaras

An Imambara is a space used by Shia Muslims where people assemble for "Majlis" (Mourning Congregations) of Imam Husain and Martyrs of Karbala. Lucknow is known as the city of Imambaras owing to the number of structures present in the city.

The Bada Imambara, one of the more popular Imambaras in the city, was built by Nawab Asaf-ud-Daula in 1784. The structure includes a large Asfi Mosque, a bhul-bhulaiya or maze, and a well. The main Imambara also contains the tomb of Asaf-ud-Daula. The Chota Imambara stands to the west of the Bada Imambara and was built by Nawab Muhammad Ali Shah in 1838. It also conceals the graves of the Nawab and his mother. 

Apart from these two Imambaras, several other similar structures exist in the city.

 In “Islamic Music in an Indian Environment: The Shia Majlis,” R. B. Qureshi draws a connection between the Tawifs of Lucknow and the Imambaras that the city is known for. While not an obvious connection, the imambaras in Lucknow were also essential spaces for the patronage of Tawaifs who were employed alongside male professional performers.

In the decade between 1910 and 1920, writer and historian Abdul Halim Sharar penned a collection of essays on the social and cultural history of Lucknow in which he, too, drew this connection. He described that during the month of Muharram, many would flock to Lucknow’s Imambaras to hear Lady Haidar, a courtesan, sing her song of lament. 

Visit Bada and Chota Imambara:

The Bada Imambara is open on all days of the week, except Mondays, from 6 AM to 5 PM. The entry fee is Rs. 25 for Indian citizens and Rs. 500 for international tourists and travellers. The bhul-bhulaiaya or the maze opens at 9 AM; It is recommended to hire a guide to take you through the confusing and narrow staircases of the maze.

The Chota Imambara is open on all days of the week from 6 AM to 5 PM, although locals recommend avoiding visiting on the weekends due to the presence of large crowds. 

Aminabad

Aminabad is the oldest and most crowded market centres of Lucknow which is known for its Chikankari embroidered clothes, spices, snacks, and decorations. 

The story behind the marketplace is traced back to the friendship between Rani Jai Kunwar Pandey and the wife of the first Nawab of Awadh. Later, Imdad Husain Khan Aminuddaulah, Prime Minister of the fourth Nawab, took on the effort of developing the place. Since then, the area has been one of the most vibrant and bustling places in Lucknow. 

Like with the Chowk, it is believed that many Tawaifs resided and operated their Kothas from Aminabad. Along with Tawaifs, Aminabad also produced court singers or darbari gayikas. One such singer is Zarina Begum who was approached by filmmaker Saba Dewan in 2003 and remains among the last ties that the city has to its regal cultural past.

Visit Aminabad:

Aminabad is open from 9 AM to 10 PM on all days of the week except Thursdays. The complex is full of shops selling clothes and food; Some regard it as the oldest and cheapest market in the city and is a treat for all the lovers of street shopping!