At approximately 4:30 in the afternoon, I entered the premises of Nizamuddin Dargah. It was February 14 and the annual celebrations of Basant Panchami were all set to take off. As soon as I was inside the complex, a spectacle in bright yellow welcomed me along with faint but melodious strains of qawwali dedicated to Khwaja Nizamuddin drifting through the throngs of people. "Nothing has much to do with religion, it all started with a smile of Hazrat Nizamuddin," said Syed Rumman Nizami, an erstwhile engineer who is one of the caretakers of the Dargah and bears the distinguished lineage of being a twenty-first generation descendant of Nizamuddin Auliya, tracing his ancestry through the line of his sister's sons.


