They were an elderly, soft-spoken couple, standing in a sunny corner of Pisa Centrale railway station, where we had just arrived from Florence. How convenient that our connection was due to arrive on the same binari (platform), and, oh, wasn't it a lovely day to head for Cinque Terre! "Cheen-kwe Tayr-ray," he said, his bony fingers rolling his 'r's, his elegance almost careless. Italians, I thought, use orchestral hand movements to match the musical cadence of their language.





