Anini: The Beating Heart Of Dibang Valley, A Hidden Gem In Arunachal Pradesh

The tourism "heart" has travelled a long way. What began as an advertising campaign for promoting New York in 1977—I ❤️ NY—is now ubiquitous everywhere in India, from big metro cities (and even neighbourhoods) to smaller towns and villages tucked away in remote regions of the country.

I was pleasantly surprised to see a I ❤️ Anini sign in Dibang Valley, one of India's most-prominent yet remote districts in Arunachal Pradesh. This district borders Tibet and has the least human density in the country.

This region lies in the far eastern part of northeast India and is the fabled land of the Idu Mishmi community, who can be distinctively identified among other tribal groups of Arunachal Pradesh by their typical hairstyle, distinctive customs and artistic pattern embedded on their clothes. They belong to the Mongoloid race and speak a distinctive dialect of the Tibeto-Burman language. This tribe takes great pride in preserving deep-rooted aesthetic values in their daily lives.

Mishmi Mythology

According to Mishmi mythology, the Mishmi people and tigers share a common origin, being born to the same mother. In the myth, the tiger is the elder sibling, while the Mishmi is the younger.

In a 2021 interview for an Outlook talk show series, I spoke with environmental anthropologist Ambika Aiyadurai, who shared this fable from her book, "Tigers Are Our Brothers: Anthropology of Wildlife Conservation in Northeast India" (2021):

One day, a younger brother hunted a deer and left it with his elder brother before going into the jungle to collect firewood. On his return, he was terrified to see his brother eating the meat raw. He told his mother that his elder brother was a tiger. 'If he can eat the raw meat, then one day he will eat me too,' he said. This became a serious concern.

A plan was made by their mother to have a competition between the two brothers. The one who crossed the river and reached the other side of the bank first would kill the other. The tiger decided to swim across the river, whereas the Mishmi took the bridge. The tiger was the first to reach the bank. When the tiger was about to come out of the river, however, the mother threw an ant's nest at the tiger's body to prevent him from winning.

To get rid of the ants, the tiger went back into the river and scratched itself against a rock. The Mishmi, meanwhile, reached the bank and shot the tiger with an arrow. Thus, the tiger died, and its body floated in the river. It was swept away to a far-off place. After several years, a bird saw the bones of the tiger scattered on the riverside. The bones were white and bright under the sunlight. The bird thought them to be eggs and sat on them to incubate. It is believed that the large bones transformed back into a tiger. From the tiny bones emerged a leopard, a leopard cat, a clouded leopard, and civet cats. This is the story of the tiger being born again. Therefore, tigers cannot be killed.

Dibang Valley is where one steps into the last of the country's verdant emerald forests bisected by turquoise rivers (and now nibbled away by road expansion and dam construction). Home to Mishmi takins, red pandas, serows, gorals, musk deer, elusive small wild cats like clouded leopards, rare birds, butterflies and moths, these dense old-growth forests are magical for anyone who loves nature.

Adventures In Anini

Anini may still be considered "offbeat" in the age of social media, as travelling to the capital of Dibang Valley is not for the faint-hearted. Unless you have an appetite for adventure, don't attempt the 250 km roller coaster, twisting and turning on a bumpy, back-breaking mountain road. Your other option, a much quicker helicopter ride from Roing, also comes with a caveat, for the state has an inglorious distinction of having the highest number of helicopter crashes. Since Tezu Airport is only an hour from Roing, flying there from Guwahati is another option. But the roads are getting better, broader and smoother. It now takes around eight hours compared to 12 hours a few years ago. But I can assure you every part of the journey will be eventful, leaving aside the landslides and roadblocks. Private transport is still exorbitant in Arunachal Pradesh, and if you are a solo traveller, make sure you book in advance and take the front-row seats. The taxi-jeeps (on a sharing basis) starting from Roing are packed with every conceivable item you can imagine—from furniture to sacks of rice to crates of grocery to poultry, beer, gas cylinders, jerry cans and other sundry items.

The journey begins with a smooth, steady climb over 60 km from Roing (390 m) to Mayodia (2655 m). This section is popular with birdwatchers who travel from all over the world to spot rare and endemic species in various altitudinal habitats.

After enjoying the cool air and stunning mountain views at Mayodia, the road descends to Ithun (1,200 m), before climbing again towards Anini (approximately 2,000 m).

Perched atop a mountain with a view of the confluence of the Dri and Mathun rivers, this small town's appeal to tourists has grown each year. The place is truly spectacular, offering a chance to relax in nature. Here, you can explore hanging bridges, vast alpine grasslands, and cascading waterfalls.

Since this is the month to celebrate St. Valentine's Day, I must return to the subject of the "heart" that has to be seen in Anini. A short drive outside the town along the Dri river bed, there is a relatively large heart-shaped natural formation on an escarpment. I haven't seen such a thing in nature, and the only other thing close to a heart shape is the Netrani island in Karnataka.

For those seeking adventure, the lesser-known "Seven Lakes" trek is a breathtaking challenge. It takes about a week, with six hours of climbing each day on an average, to cover over 2,000 m (from 6,300 ft to 1,4000 ft) through awe-inspiring terrain, showcasing the best of nature.

Get Your Copy Now!

Don't miss out on the latest issue of Outlook Traveller! Click here to grab your copy.