In his 1871 book, "The Highlands of Central India," Captain James Forsyth vividly describes the Pachmarhi plateau, writing, “To the south, as far as the eye can see, lie range upon range of forest-covered hills, tumbled in wild confusion…”
A hush blankets the forest road leading to the discreet entrance of Reni Pani, a jungle lodge named for its lush, fruit-bearing Reni trees. Aly Rashid welcomes me at a modest pavilion, and together we stroll along forested paths recounting legacy. “Growing up, Satpura was our family camping and riding destination during school holidays. I have a very deep connection with this park and the lodge,” he informs with characteristic politeness.
Arriving in India in 1857 as the Deputy Commissioner of the Central Provinces, Forsyth documented the region’s life and landscapes, creating an enduring record. He noted how “aboriginal tribes” revered trees and nature spirits yet also observed extensive deforestation driven by indigenous slash-and-burn farming and colonial clear-cutting for railroad expansion. Today, Satpura is a sought-after destination for luxury wildlife holidays thanks to years of conservation efforts by the Madhya Pradesh Forest Department, supported by families like the Rashids, the former royals of Bhopal.
In 1983, brothers Yawar and Nadir Rashid embarked on a journey to preserve Jehan Numa Begum’s heritage through the Jehan Numa Group, envisioning a collection of luxury experiences in and around Bhopal.
As I sip a warm cup of ginger and honey tea at the cosy wood-panelled "Gol-Ghar" (the main dining and lounge), head naturalist Siddharth Gogoi briefs me about the lodge's unique charm. “We don’t have intercoms or room service. To summon a staff member at night, simply blow the horn in your room. Don’t wander out alone,” he says.
The purpose of this caution becomes clear when he mentions the unlikely visitors who wander through the rugged terrain of Reni Pani past dark—leopards, sloth bears, wild boars, and, occasionally, the striped tiger. With a thrilling chill, I visit the bountiful library that is equipped with the only Wi-Fi in the resort; there is no cell reception elsewhere, to my utmost delight.
The cottage, a splendid fusion of rustic luxury, featured a handwoven charpai on the balcony overlooking a dwindling stream. Inside, I find a sunlit window nook, a plush couch, a grand teak double bed, and a spacious bathroom with an outdoor shower nestled beneath ancient Sagun trees.
A dokra art piece and vibrant tribal paintings adorn the walls, while a vintage blow horn sits on the dresser. Each meal here is crafted to suit dietary preferences, featuring the freshest ingredients, including a delightful thali on specific days. The bar has an impressive selection of singles and cocktails. I try “Raavan on the Rocks,” a beautifully spiced twist on tequila with pineapple.
Unlike most tiger reserves, safaris in Satpura are conducted in Gypsy vehicles, motorboats or by walking, and even on horseback. Boat safaris are especially captivating, revealing pristine vistas of the Satpura mountain range (meaning "Seven Peaks") rising beyond the blue expanse of the Tawa reservoir.
At Reni Pani, horses are raised and trained on-site, creating a unique opportunity to explore the forest on horseback. While general training isn’t available, Aly hosts a summer riding camp in Bhopal, teaching young riders the basics of equestrian adventure. “We take great pride in our beautiful horses and offer joyrides only on request, just with our leads, while more experienced riders go back with a completely unique way of seeing the forest,” he explains. For novices like yours truly, a sweet interaction with the five gorgeous equines on their evening routine is available on request.
After successfully spotting an adult tigress and a leopard on safari in the Madhai zone, the journey to my next destination—though familiar from past wild adventures, still holds many surprises. A private boat takes me on the most scenic safari, complemented by high tea, to a breathtaking sunset on the water, across the Tawa dam, to the other end of the national park, birdwatching throughout. A short drive later, we reach Bori Safari Lodge, the latest addition to the group’s portfolio. Chic and contemporary, the 12-room lodge offers access to the Western core at Churna zone and the new safari drives in Bori Wildlife Sanctuary, where rewilding efforts, including tiger and barasingha reintroductions, are starting to thrive.
Located on a lesser-known side of the reserve, just 3.5 hours from Nagpur, this area had seen little tourism until recently. Since opening in 2021, the group has made notable contributions through CSR projects like new toilets in tourism areas and pushed for conservation through tourism revenues, marking a fresh chapter for sustainable development on this side of the park. Bheemkund Gate, opened officially in 2023 serves safari visitors travelling from Nagpur and Indore, both having international airports. Across two categories of cottage stays, the most noticeable is the use of low-impact building materials blending with the natural surroundings and open plan design with large sit-out decks and outdoor tubs.
Located on a lesser-known side of the reserve, just 3.5 hours from Nagpur, this area had seen little tourism until recently
From a contemporary meal plan to a breathtaking infinity pool, this property epitomises luxury in seclusion. A butterfly garden and a young rangers programme enchant children, while adults can savour exquisite craft cocktails featuring Mahua, the locally celebrated spirit now recognised as a heritage liquor.
I sample the "Smoky Gondi Elf," a recent creation perfected during a special mixology training by Faye, who leads Mr. Bartender & Crew in teaching young, often underprivileged professionals.
Famous for sightings of sloth bears and Malabar giant squirrels (Ratufa indica), Satpura National Park recorded 65 adult tigers in the latest census, enhancing its appeal for tiger-centric tourism. As interest in these majestic animals grows, parks like Satpura have an opportunity to manage visitor numbers and diversify activities, reducing pressure on the crowded Gypsy safari model that challenges many popular Indian reserves. Here, walking trails along the scenic Panchmarhi plateau offer a unique perspective, while private lodges exclusively provide boat safaris.
"Tales from the Bush" is a collection of stories and wildlife encounters from the Jehan Numa family, chronicling their experiences in Satpura over the past 15 years.
It features contributions from experts and guests, stunning visuals, and a captivating chapter on nocturnal wildlife captured by camera traps.
"Just Nature Expeditions" crafts unique wildlife experiences for travellers. From the vibrant banks of Pantanal for jaguars to the serene ridges of Ladakh for snow leopards, searching for red pandas in Sikkim to encounters with orangutans in Borneo, these journeys offer unforgettable holidays.
