Standing in front of a thick forest, I start to wonder whether there is something wrong with my eyes. Having been accustomed to the grey and monotone colours of Delhi’s buildings and streets, my vision cannot comprehend the deep hues of the green that is all around me. It feels like looking at the world in high-definition instead of technicolour.
I am in the Thonikadavu hills of Kerala’s Kasaragod district with Rathnakaran E A, a local guide and homestay owner who takes visitors on walks through the area's man-made and natural forests. We set off from his house in the mid-morning, and as someone who rarely encounters opportunities to immerse themselves in a natural environment, this experience is truly a blessing.
I have always wondered what it would be like to be at home among plants, animals and the more-than-human landscape. In Rathnakaran, I see its results. He pulls leaves and roots for me to smell, taste and touch; fashions handbags and caps from the leaves of areca nut trees; and treads the well-worn routes of a forest he knows so intimately with ease. As I keep up with this spry middle-aged man while chewing lemongrass, cinnamon, allspice, pepper and all manner of medicinal herbs, I start to daydream about moving to Bekal—an indication perhaps that my arrival here feels like coming back home.
The reason I was in the Kasaragod district was to review Gateway Bekal, the flagship enterprise of the Indian Hotels Company Limited (IHCL). On paper, the five-star luxury hotel epitomises opulence and variety. The entire property combines traditional Keralite architecture with modern design that captivates the eye from the get-go, and the 151 guest rooms, premium cottages and executive suites feature stunning garden and backwater views.
Walking around the property to my cottage was enjoyable at all times of the day. I would frequently pause to listen to birdsong, hear the wind rustle the plants and trees, catch snippets of conversation and breathe in the fresh air.
When I first opened the door to my accommodation, my gaze was immediately drawn upwards to the ceiling, which resembled the hull of a traditional boat. The sight was magnificent and I never got tired of the ceiling view during my stay. The furnishings were of the highest quality and combined elegance with simplicity, while the view outside my porch (yes, an actual porch) looked out onto a green space and the backwaters of the Tejaswini River. The bathroom came with a shower area, a hot tub and the finest amenities packaged in elegant little packets. The comfortable bedspread was a joy post long days of travel and sightseeing, making it easier to fall asleep quickly.
This kind of attention to detail did not escape the dining service, either. For starters, I could not stop caressing the smooth texture of the plate I had picked up to eat breakfast. The tactility of even the simplest of utensils brought a smile to my face—a demonstration, if one was needed, that hospitality lies in the smallest of things.
I sat down to a delicious breakfast consisting of bowls of sambar, fruits, and toast topped with banana and avocado by Earth Pavilion, the all-day dining restaurant at Gateway Bekal. Arguably the best part of the meal was spending time talking to Pradeep B, the F&B manager on duty that morning, and Chef Rohit Bhandary. I chatted with them about their upbringing, their work at the hotel and their interests, one of many conversations that I would cherish during my time here.
For lunch, I was pleasantly surprised with a vegan sadhya, a traditional feast that is typically enjoyed during festivals like Onam and Vishu. Eaten on a banana leaf, the dishes are served in a specific order and eaten from left to right. Chef Dhanya R Nair used her creativity to make an authentic vegan meal, swapping out curd with ingredients like tamarind for instance. Afterwards, my minder for the day, Aruna Santhosh Avikkal, who worked in the sales office, showed me the traditional way of conveying appreciation for a good meal—turning the farther end of the banana leaf towards you—which I gratefully performed.
Wanting to make the most of the natural surroundings of Bekal, I opted for a backwaters tour by houseboat instead of a tour of the iconic Bekal Fort. At the jetty, I met Krishna (the captain), Ravi (the host) and Narayan (the chef) from Bekal Ripples, the latter two having worked overseas for many years before returning to Kerala. Out on the water, we breezed past blue-coloured fishing boats and beached coastal patrol boats on our way to see where the river joined up with the Arabian Sea.
I savoured this journey. The sun was hidden behind the clouds and the water rippled with fish. The wake left by the houseboat would quickly dissolve and the sight of water refreshed my internal state. It was as if all of my worries and travails were carried away by the waves themselves. I also got the chance to live out my fantasy of being a sailor for a few minutes by steering the houseboat, an experience that induced the elusive “flow” state.
Back in the hotel as the evening wound down, I attempted to make space in my stomach for the three-course dining service that was planned. I ate as much of the appetiser, main course (stir-fry, steamed vegetables and tofu) and dessert (tender coconut pudding) as I could, but it was my conversations with the staff of Gateway Bekal and the tour operators and guides that I kept helping myself to.
My stay at Gateway Bekal lasted for just over 24 hours but I found myself wondering if I could extend my visit. My heart overflowed with the kindness and generosity of all the people I met, even as my belly was full, bursting with the tasty goodness of Earth Pavilion’s dining. On the way back to the airport with driver Rajan E V, I reminisced on my memories of the trip and kept coming back to a word I used liberally with everyone I met: nanni (“thank you” in Malayalam).
Address: Gateway Bekal, Malankunnu, Bekal, Pallikkara II, 671318
Tariff: From INR 7,100 for a one-night stay in April
How to reach: Fly to Mangaluru International Airport (IXE) or take the train to Mangaluru Central (MAQ). Hire a taxi to cover the 74 kms to Gateway Bekal.
