A white-throated kingfisher flew over my head as I attempted to take in the spread of the forest resort from my perch on the buggy leading me to my room. A 2.5-hour drive from Nagpur would land you at Tipai Wildlife Luxuries, a wildlife resort smack in the middle of a forest and only a kilometre away from Tipeshwar Wildlife Sanctuary. A narrow dirt path veers off the main road and leads you to the resort. Dotted with towering neem, mulberry and bamboo trees, the property unfurls in forks of slim paths leading towards different sections.
"I wanted to create an experience that embodies the joys of the jungle beyond wildlife sightings," says Keyur Joshi, the founder of Tipai, which is the inaugural project of the bigger Wildlife Luxuries plan. "Tipai was built to conserve natural resources and to transform the local communities who have, for generations, protected these lands." There are 15 villas in all, including four with private pools.
"Do you know the story of Talabwali?" asks Agnes T Sebastian, one of the naturalists at Tipai. She narrates how a Tipeshwar forest tigress had come down to one of the pool villas. Pregnant, the tigress called Talabwali (named so because her territory in the forest houses a vast lake) drank some water from the pool. She rested on the villa's verandah before returning to the forest. "Coincidentally, the villa she visited was named Shera." That particular villa has now been kept for guest viewing but can be booked in case other villas are unavailable.
Mine was one of the 11 forest villas. From the outside, the forest villas would make you believe they have been part of the natural landscape all along, having erupted from the very land they are built on. Inside, the tastefully rustic décor brings you to the luxe reality of the estate. But what struck me was the mysteriously cool temperature inside the villa while the heat soared outside. Looking up, I saw the arched ceiling was made entirely with kulhads or clay cups to regulate the temperatures inside.
Designed by architect Ariane Thakore Ginwala, who worked with the Institute of Village Sciences in Wardha, 80 km from the site, Tipai was built with sustainability and low-impact construction is mind. "Whether it was the techniques, materials or the people involved, it was all of this land," says Ginwala. "Instead of importing labour, we trained the villagers in rammed earth construction and stone masonry. Our vaulted roofs are made of terracotta tiles by local porters."
The living area invites you with a plush, patterned sofa in the centre and soft rugs. The suite's lighting fixtures represent the flora and fauna of the place, with ceiling lights in the shape of birds and a huge floor lamp with spindly wrought iron stalks and light emanating from its five bulbous rose-shaped heads. A running verandah with unimpeded views of the natural surroundings fills the villa with light. Open the doors and take in all the wildlife calls intrinsic to the place.
An attached powder room and the coffee and tea station complete the living area. A three-step descent leads to the bedroom, which further opens up to an expansive twin vanity, a shower stall and a dressing area. The completely private outdoor rain shower made my days fresh, with the smell of the wet earth reminding me of being caught in a downpour.
All the pools, the private ones and the common pool, are filled with water without chemicals. It is cleaned daily by the staff, and you are likely to spot small fish and insects floating inside, giving you the feel of bathing in a natural forest water body.
"Welcome to Palaash," a chirpy voice and a bright grin greeted me at the entrance. The slight girl named Komal held out a plate of white and orange amuse-bouche, and a burst of the freshest Nagpur oranges exploded in my mouth, melting with cool white chocolate.
Dining is a quirky affair at Tipai. My three days at the resort were spent sampling the food of the three restaurants on the property. While Perch and Wadi offer meals throughout the day, Palaash is a dinner-only restaurant and the baby of celebrity Chef Amninder Sandhu, the founding partner of the dining experience at Tipai. A national award winner, Sandhu was one of the first chefs to champion open-fire cooking and is also the brains behind Goa's new restaurant Bawri.
As the amuse-bouche blew my mind, I could only wait to explore the rest of the seven-course degustation menu with bated breath.
A refreshing Mahua cocktail accompanied by two dishes–Ambaadi, Chinch, Charred Ananas, Dahi and Ratalu Gulab, Nimbu, Crisp Kashiphal (pumpkin)–served as the perfect start to the culinary odyssey in Palaash. For subsequent courses, there is slow-cooked raan with bhakri, which you eat like you would tacos, bater (quail) in saoji spice, and smoked bamboo pork with Indrayani rice. The dessert is a lip-smacking combo of Mahua kala jamun with pista ice cream served in the eponymous palaash leaves.
"All my career, I wanted to be able to cook in an underground barbecue pit, and I wanted to do open-fire cooking without killing my team," says Sandhu. Her perfect open kitchen at the restaurant with an all-women team of cooks is whipping up the best food at the property. She explains that 80 per cent of their workforce is from the neighbouring village; some worked as cleaners in the kitchen and others in housekeeping. "It's a very poor neighbourhood, and in our little way, we wanted to make a difference for the locals there. At this point in my career, I hold it closest to my heart."
Palaash's menu brings a fresh spin to Nagpur's culinary heritage and gives guests a palatable menu without marring the essence of local recipes.
Tipai is not just for people lured by the possibility of spotting tigers, although that is one of the big highlights of the place. I set out on the safari early in the morning with Ishani, one of the naturalists at the property, a local guide, and two other guests, and a complete care package of snacks and beverages to keep us well-fed and hydrated. We lucked out within the first hour and spotted two adults, one female and a male, in a head-on sighting.
Enclosing an area of 148 sq km, the Tipeshwar Wildlife Sanctuary is still relatively unknown to most people, which somehow make spottings easier. About 15 tigers currently inhabit the sanctuary, which is largely dry and deciduous. Besides the tigers, Tipeshwar is also home to a wide variety of birds, deer, cheetal, wild boars, langurs, and many other species.
Enclosing an area of 148 sq km, the Tipeshwar Wildlife Sanctuary is still relatively unknown to most people, which somehow make spottings easier. About 15 tigers currently inhabit the sanctuary, which is largely dry and deciduous. Besides the tigers, Tipeshwar is also home to a wide variety of birds, deer, cheetal, wild boars, langurs, and many other species.
Tariff: From INR 50,000 per night
Getting There: Fly to Nagpur and then drive for 2.5 hours to reach the resort.
Website: wildlifeluxuries.com
The author's stay was sponsored by the property
