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She stood atop a rock, scanning the horizon, as if searching for something, or perhaps wondering why jeeps full of people arrived daily just to watch her. Behind her, two cubs played in the fading light, their mother's sleek, golden coat patterned with dark rosettes glowing under the last rays of the sun.
We waited—my two guides and I—about 50 metres away in our forest-green jeep, with a few others parked nearby. The leopard was called Neelam, named for her striking, gemstone-like eyes. She glanced at us once more, letting out what felt like a sigh—of resignation, maybe, at the daily intrusion into her quiet domain—and slipped behind a large rock with her cubs.
As the light faded and the granite hills turned dusky grey, we began our drive back to WelcomHeritage Cheetahgarh Resort & Spa, my base for the trip. The resort is in Bera, a village in Rajasthan about 125 kilometres from Udaipur. Known as the “Leopard Village of India,” it’s famous for its unusually large leopard population. The village lies at the heart of the larger Jawai region, named after the nearby Jawai Dam and the Leopard Conservation Reserve that surrounds it. Over time, "Jawai" has come to refer to the broader landscape of granite hills, scrub forests, and water bodies that sustain both wildlife and the pastoral communities living among them. The region is believed to host between 60 and 70 leopards, although locals insist the true number is higher.
As we drove back through the rocky terrain, one of my guides spoke almost reverently about the leopard we had just seen. "Neelam's been around for years," he said. "She's always been bold, never scared of people. Even when she was young, she'd walk near the villages, calm as ever. Most leopards hide till dark, but not her. Neelam moves around in broad daylight, like she owns the place. It's as if she knows this land is hers as much as it is ours."
By the time we reached the resort, the sun had vanished, and the evening air carried that faint, wild stillness unique to Bera, a land where leopards like Neelam rule not through fear, but through elegance.
When I woke up the next morning in my Lake View Room, it took me a moment to realise what felt different: I had slept through the night without waking once. For someone used to the constant hum of city life, the silence here was almost startling. Outside, the air was still, broken only by the faint call of a bird across the lake.
The resort itself is situated within a 20-acre private estate, surrounded by the ancient ridges of the Aravalli Hills. At its centre lies a large natural lake that draws both resident crocodiles and flocks of birds throughout the year. Between October and March, the region becomes a haven for migratory species—bar-headed geese, sarus cranes, knob-billed and spot-billed ducks, demoiselle cranes, and even flamingos—turning Jawai into an unexpected paradise for birdwatchers. "This area has always been a meeting ground for wildlife and people," the general manager told me. "Our goal was to create a space that reflects that coexistence, without disturbing the natural rhythm."
From my room, I could see this very lake stretch out below. The room, spread across 700 square feet, featured clean, contemporary interiors and a private balcony that opened out to uninterrupted water views. "Each of these rooms is positioned to give guests both privacy and a sense of connection with the landscape," one of the staff members said.
Beyond these, the resort offers a range of accommodations designed around different aspects of the terrain: the Chalet with Garden View, facing the gardens and Aravalli slopes; the Chalet with Private Pool, complete with a plunge pool framed by natural stone; and the Khema Luxury Tent, a large setup with two bedrooms, a living area, and a veranda that opens into the forest.
At the centre of the property stands The Club House, the resort's restaurant and bar. Spacious and open to the breeze, it serves regional Rajasthani dishes alongside global fare. The menu, I was told, draws inspiration from local produce and traditional cooking methods, blending comfort with authenticity.
Local culture forms the pulse of the place. The Rabari community, known for its pastoral traditions, has been closely involved in shaping the experience, from crafts and design details to the warmth of its hospitality. "The Rabaris have lived with leopards here for generations," my guide said. "They see them not as a threat, but as neighbours."
And it was a nearby Rabari village that became my last stop on this trip.
The drive to the Rabari village was as much a part of the experience as the visit itself. We left the resort soon after breakfast, our jeep winding through narrow trails lined with acacia and neem trees. Every bend carried a sense of anticipation. My guides, ever alert, scanned the rocky slopes for movement. "You never know when a leopard might cross your path here," one of them said, eyes still on the hills.
What surprised me most was how green the landscape was. Like many, I had always imagined Rajasthan as endless stretches of ochre and dust. But Bera, and the Jawai region around it, defy that image. The granite hills were carpeted in monsoon-fed grass, and the air was alive with the chatter of birds. "People think this is desert country," my guide said. "But Jawai is its own world, with water, rock, grass, and leopards existing in perfect balance."
After about 30 minutes, we arrived at a small Rabari house with a thatched roof and a single solar panel on top. An elderly man, dressed in a crisp white dhoti and red turban, greeted us warmly and invited us in. As we talked, he went about his chores: milking a goat, tending to the fire, and brewing us tea. It was simple and strong, made only with tea leaves and sugar, yet somehow, it was perfect.
Over tea, he spoke about his community. The Rabari are a semi-nomadic pastoral people found across Rajasthan and Gujarat, traditionally camel herders who now rear sheep and goats. Their lives are deeply tied to the rhythms of the land. Women stay in the villages, managing households and creating intricate embroidered textiles, while men travel with the herds in search of grazing grounds. "The women here run everything," he said. "They handle the money, the trade, even the decisions."
Their homes and clothing tell stories: black dresses stitched with vivid threadwork, silver ornaments glinting in the sun, and motifs that mark identity and lineage. Traditionally matriarchal, the Rabaris are known for their resilience and harmony with nature. Their coexistence with the leopards of Bera is especially remarkable. "If a leopard takes one of their goats, they don't see it as a loss," my guide said as we drove back. "They say the leopard is just doing its duty, and the herd grows stronger for it."
As we drove away, I realised that Bera isn't just about spotting leopards; it is about witnessing a rare rhythm between land, animal, and human. In a world that often draws lines between the wild and the tame, this corner of Rajasthan reminds you that balance doesn't always need distance; sometimes it simply needs understanding.
Bera is located about 125 km from Udaipur in Rajasthan's Pali district. The nearest airport and major railway station are in Udaipur. From there, it's a three-hour drive through scenic Aravalli landscapes. Private taxis and resort-arranged transfers are the most convenient options for reaching Bera.
The ideal time to visit Bera is between October and March, when the weather is pleasant and migratory birds arrive. Summers can be harsh, while the monsoon briefly transforms the landscape into lush green hills and water-filled ravines.
Go on a Leopard Safari
The highlight of any Jawai visit, whether it's an early morning or late-evening safari, offers a chance to spot leopards resting on granite hills or moving across scrublands. Local trackers and guides ensure a safe, insightful experience.
Visit the Jawai Dam and Crocodile Point
The Jawai Dam, located just a short drive from Bera, serves as both a vital water source and a great viewing point. Visitors can often see crocodiles basking on the banks and flocks of birds at sunrise or sunset.
Go Birdwatching
Between October and March, the region turns into a paradise for birdwatchers. Species such as flamingos, demoiselle cranes, and bar-headed geese flock to the dam and surrounding wetlands.
Walk with the Rabari Community
Join a guided visit to a nearby Rabari village to learn about this semi-nomadic pastoral tribe. Interact with families, observe their traditional embroidery, and gain insight into their unique connection with leopards and the land.
Day Trips to Kumbhalgarh and Ranakpur
A two-hour drive from Bera takes you to Kumbhalgarh Fort, a UNESCO World Heritage Site renowned for its massive walls and stunning Aravalli views, and the Ranakpur Jain Temple, famous for its intricate 15th-century marble carvings.
