The city of Chhatrapati Sambhajinagar, formerly known as Aurangabad and renamed in 2023 to honour the eldest son of the founder of the Maratha Empire, is the gateway to the UNESCO World Heritage Sites of the Ajanta and Ellora caves. A cotton and silk production hub, it is Maharashtra's fifth most populous city, and boasts a cultural legacy influenced by the Nizams of Hyderabad.
The metropolis's blend of historic sites with lineages in Buddhist, Hindu, Jain and Mughal traditions makes it one of the most visited places in India, especially during the winter when the cool and pleasant climate makes it a breeze to be out and about.
Thus, tourists to Aurangabad have no dearth of hotels where they can relax in the utmost luxury. But to my mind, only one accommodation accurately mirrors the serenity and tranquillity of all that I had experienced during my first visit to the Ajanta and Ellora caves.
Dhyaana Farms is a 14-acre luxury farmstay that neighbours adjoining villages and the rolling hills of the Western Ghats on the outskirts of the city. Designed as an off-grid, solar-powered retreat, it is a working farm where the buildings are made of recycled wood, and the terracotta tones, earthy mud hues and warm yellow lighting instinctively signal visitors to slow down and listen to the croaking frogs and the cicadas hiding in the shrubs. There are no television sets and the Wi-Fi is spotty, a sign to unplug and embrace the natural rhythms of farm life.
The layout of the farm feels intimate and cosy. Pick up a book from the library nook on the way to your farmhouse room, one of four that comes with an ensuite bathroom and walk-in shower, a study, and a private patio that overlooks plants and trees. Or, if you’re seeking a larger private space, stay in the lone cottage with expansive floor-to-ceiling glass windows, a private garden, a private pool and a gazebo. To the left of the cottage is a thatched space where yoga sessions are conducted and on the right, a machan, where the views of the Sahyadris stretch endlessly to the horizon.
Here, there is so much to do depending on what you’re interested in: Want to try your hand at pottery? They have a dedicated space for that. Organic farming piqued your curiosity? You’re welcome to harvest the farm produce and learn the traditional techniques. In the mood for a picnic in a clearing, a guided hike to the top of the closest hill, or a village exploration where you can chat with locals? Check, check and check. The property also organises trips to the Ajanta and Ellora caves, which I took advantage of, and other historic sites like Daulatabad Fort, Bibi ka Maqbara, the Grishneshwar Temple and more.
At Dhyaana Farms, I stayed in a farmhouse room for two nights, a trip that was much too short. Staring up at the bamboo-poled ceiling before sleep overtook me was a lovely change from the concrete ceiling of my bedroom at home because of its sheer beauty. The sounds of rain pattering against the windowpanes would rock me to dreamland before I was woken up at dawn to the caws and coos of birds. Eager to sleep some more, I would simply turn over the other side in my comfortable and spacious four-poster bed.
When I wasn’t off visiting one historic site or another, I would rest in one of my favourite spaces in the whole complex (besides the “animal farm” area where I spotted six horses, four dogs, a handful of ungulates and some cats, all of whom have free rein of the property)—the Gazebo. This circular space, surrounded by a small lake on three sides, is where I spent most of my time chatting and laughing with my fellow visitors and the owners of the property, Aparna Phalnikar and Sahaj Sharma.
The duo opened Dhyaana Farms in February 2023 with the aim of creating a place where people could leave behind the chaos of city life and immerse themselves in a rural landscape complete with birdsong, cattle, friendly locals, forests and hills. Since then, they have hosted numerous high-profile guests, from the former US Secretary of State Hillary Clinton to award-winning photographer Dayanita Singh. The property is open for 10 months, closing from mid-April to mid-June, reopening just in time during the monsoon season.
Because the lodging prides itself on a farm-to-table philosophy, the food at Dhyaana Farms features ingredients handpicked from their organic farms. As someone who subsists on a 100 per cent plant-based diet (no dairy and honey for me, thanks), I was treated to a smorgasbord of meals that pushed the limits of my waistband. Whether I was eating theplas, thalis, pulaos, vegan cookies, pancakes with maple syrup and jamun marmalade, sabudana balls, or poha, the courses were endless and the flavours were delicious and varied. International cuisine is also on the menu, so guests are encouraged to inform the staff of their dietary preferences prior to their arrival.
One of the highlights of my stay at Dhyaana Farms took place on the penultimate day when my fellow guests and I were treated to a high tea experience in a clearing near the property. The ride to the open expanse of grass, shrubs and trees was a bumpy and bouncy procession that included navigating ditches and ruts.
When we finally reached the place, we were cocooned by the sky and a boundless horizon on one end and the looming Sahyadris right over us. As we sat around on a rug and chairs with thermos flasks and biscuit stands, holding cups of tea, coffee and hot water, all of us paused to take in the beauty of the landscape.
The rain started to fall in light drops but we stayed put. As the conversation flowed, the desire to come back to this exact spot, this farmstay and with these people surged in me—one trip was never going to be enough.
Tariff: From INR 20,000 per night. It is recommended that guests stay for at least three nights
Address: Village Shahjatpur, Tal Khultabad, Near Kasabkheda, Verul, Maharashtra 431102
How To Reach: Take a flight or train to the city of Chhatrapati Sambhajinagar (formerly known as Aurangabad). Dhyaana Farms is 38 km/one-hour away by car. They can arrange pick-ups and drop-offs
