
Holding on to the curved balustrade, carefully descending the grand staircase one step at a time, I assess my surroundings. Dim lights and soft jazz notes in the background evoke a moody backdrop, and as I hit the luxuriant, deep red carpet at the bottom of the stairs, I leave the 21st century outside to enter the glorious 1930s.
As much as my setting is steeped in the mystique of backstage, I'm not at a theatre but at Dolly, the in-house restaurant at Le Méridien, Melbourne. With its distressed mirror finishes, deep timber panelling, and noir ambience, the subterranean restaurant is part of the iconic building that is the only Le Méridien in Australia, with a history as rich as its decor.
Originally built as a hotel in the 1850s, the story has come full circle for this building, but its journey to get here has been nothing short of iconic. The Excelsior Hotel went through several incarnations, including that of a theatre, a live performance venue, and also a very popular nightclub, but it is the hotel's stint as a cinema hall that remains its most memorable one and one that has found its way into the art and design story of the hotel today.
Standing proud behind its original art deco façade, the 12-storey property features mid-century inspired interiors and subtle nuances influenced by its Air France heritage; the brand was founded by the airline in the 1960s with its first hotel opening in Paris in 1972, a time when air travel was considered most glamorous. The signature mid-century design influence is evident all over the place, as is the French passion for culture and cuisine. Equally effortless is the European effervescence that surrounds it but is not confined just to the hotel— it spills all across Bourke Street, where the hotel stands as a cornerstone of the city's arts and culture scene, through the area's cobblestoned stretches, open-air street side cafes, theatres playing musicals, Victorian architecture, and more.
Being a cinephile, I'm most taken by Le Méridien Melbourne's nod to its cinematic past. Intermission, its ground floor lobby bar inspired by the golden age of cinema and the site's history as MGM cinema, is complete with theatre-style lighting, terrazzo and polished stone. Its mid-century modern interiors are a reflection of the neighbouring 1950s espresso bars, which later became the catalyst for Melbourne's famed coffee culture. I grab one of its award-winning coffees on my way out and try a gelato upon my return, which induces a French Riviera summer state of mind. Upstairs in the guest rooms, you'll find all the usual suspects one would expect in a luxurious five-star, but what catches the eye are the turntables paired with a selection of vinyl from artists such as Prince and James Brown who once performed here. The suave rooms look out at sights such as the imposing Parliament House, glimpses of the Fitzroy gardens, and some look as far out east as the Dandenong ranges, all while never losing sight of the historic red brick and stained glass façades of the yesteryear buildings of this quarter.
After a restful afternoon in my room followed by a soiree at Le Splash, the rooftop pool deck that celebrates 'Au Soleil' or the exclusive programme here that marks the advent of summer in the southern hemisphere, it's time to head one more time to the timeless Dolly for dinner. Named after the camera technique pioneered during Hitchcock's 1958 masterpiece 'Vertigo' (and not Miss Parton!), Dolly is a homage to iconic storytelling. A row of freshly chucked oysters awaits me along with some champagne (though one can also choose from a collection of artful cocktails curated to immortalise performers and artists that once graced the stage and screen here). Sitting in the booth through a dreamy dinner, it is the arrival of the hotel's famously indulgent Bombe Alaska, the deadly meringue and ice cream dessert torched at the table, which snaps me out of my reverie. As I dig into what my menu describes as the 'final act', it is only apt that it is 'curtains down' on my atmospheric stay at this place which is great not only for lovers of old-school luxury and fine dining but also anyone who has an eternal love for the silver screen.
Address: 20 Bourke St, Melbourne VIC 3000, Australia
Website: www.marriott.com/en-us/hotels/melmd-le-meridien-melbourne/